Bent Strut

My web of my strut is bent laterally to starboard and the prop shop said they will try and straighten it out. Does anyone have the critical dimensions that I am shooting for? I know I have seen Pete say that the edges of the base flange and/or holes are not precise. Also, I have the prop off, will I be able to slide the strut to the aft with the shaft in it or will the threads/cutlass bearing interfere?   '76 Martinique

Just center the bore to the mounting holes. That is the design intention.    I wouldn't trust the perimeter of the casting at all.

Cole,
Yes, don't worry about aligning the engine at this point. See how close the shop can straighten the strut but understand when you get it back some elongation of mounting holes in the hull may be needed. The key is to get the strut aligned so the shaft is happy (turns freely) and is pretty close to the center of the log.

Also, you should be able to remove the strut with the shaft in IF you can get its base loose from the hull.

My strut was recessed and it dropped as soon as I pushed the bolts through the hull. I had previously separated the coupling and log hose and was able to cock the shaft far enough to slide the strut off with the rudder in place. Not sure if the geometry of my boat is unique to allow me to do this, as I have seen others post that shaft removal is/was required in order for them to change the Cutlass. Are there less permanent alternatives to the 5200 that will allow for easier disassembly while still maintaining an acceptable flexible seal? Marine RTV? I can’t imagine the hydraulic pressure being that high, especially with the base being recessed into the hull.

Your strut was not installed like a factory strut if it fell off., or the hit was so hard it broke the bond.
Mine was factory, only had 100 hours on it at the time but had been damaged by the previous owner hitting something.
I put it back on with 3M 5200 and I would not be afraid to use it again.   The shims take it right off if needed.

If you read on here you will find people that remove props that fall right off as the nut is removed. That makes them wrong not easy.
Lap them in correctly and they will not fall off without a puller.
Same for your strut.
I figure if the factory decided they need to be in place and firm I would follow that lead.
The 4 bolts without a good bond from the 3M might allow movement over time that comes back to haunt you.
Test fit multiple times to be sure it will be aligned before gluing. I had to install some washers as spacers between the hull and the strut to get in proper alignment. I bought several spacers, used my Mic to measure them and a sharpie to write the size on each washer.   Then stacked them as necessary to get my prop shaft aligned. Make alignment marks to prepare for this install and make sure your marks will not be covered by the adhesive as you install.   I would not say any part of this install is hard, just takes time to make sure it is correct. If memory serves me Acetone helped clean up my tools and fiberglass after the install. I cleaned up right away.   I used one of the door shims to bed the 5200 in place prior to install and threw it away as soon as I finished. For a low cost tool it did the job.
Mark