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blowed it up yesterday

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baitkiller View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2018 at 10:24pm
I drove Eddies last year. Baaadd asss machine.
Mine was never slow with 280.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-09-2018 at 12:38pm
Well the 6.2 (it was a marine 377, not 383 sorry, bear with me) had 8 scored holes when I opened it up. Not even rebuildable. Crap.
Back to ground zero.
I have ordered this and it will be delivered this week.
5.7 vortec with 4bbl intake (iron) balancer, circ pump covers and pan. Good news is thay have an older block with the fuel pump boss so I dont have to ghetto rig it. Still has the roller cam and will make 330 horse power with a 4 barrel..
I needed the intake, I needed a balancer
Delivered to my buddies shop total price ~3K
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shierh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-09-2018 at 1:57pm
Nice. That ought to wake up the hull a bit.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-09-2018 at 2:42pm
Originally posted by shierh shierh wrote:

Nice. That ought to wake up the hull a bit.


One would think but I i really don't expect much. This old motor made 280ish and ran like hot love. Probably won't have to do any prop mods.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-09-2018 at 3:16pm
If you want top end speed a larger prop may be in your future.   If you stay with the prop you have you will get to top speed much faster.
A good 383 will pull like a stock big block. You should be ready for fun this summer.
I had all the parts to convert my 350 in my old Malibu to a 383 but my 350 ran so well I just never made time to make the switch.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sport1999 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-13-2018 at 8:55pm
You get the motor back together, yet?
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baitkiller View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-14-2018 at 8:07am
Yeah.. well kind of anyway.
The two scrap motors are gone from the garage and the new one is here, un crated and hanging from a hook in the garage. But this morning i sit here at my desk working on reports. I also have to clear the house of foliage all around to get ready for painters. Oh, yeah we have a fund raising dinner tonight and a friends B day party tomorrow mid morning.
My goal for the weekend is to get as many coats of truck bed liner on the oil pan as I can.
These pans are $280 and rust out fast being right in the bilge. (sea water) The spray on liner works better than anything I have tried in a rattle can.
I am also going to drop another 1200 into manifolds and risers. The dry joint stuff I have is only a year old and pressure tested fine, looks fine but is Sierra and made in Taiwan. Don't trust it. New Mercruiser OEM stuff being ordered Monday. Kaitlin Rose will have it together over the week and ready to go next.
Thanks for asking!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-14-2018 at 8:15am
I need to buy a new hour meter too. And change the transducer while the engine is out. And fetch all the flips flops and beer cans and sun screen and my short 9/16 Snap on wrench and Marys' bottle of wine and the boot lube and a few coozies from the aft bilge pockets while the engine is out.
I think Kostas may have some stuff in there too. Ill have to check.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote OldSchoolBlue84 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-14-2018 at 10:17am
Originally posted by baitkiller baitkiller wrote:

Kostas may have some stuff in there too. Ill have to check.

Most likely good luck on the project. That little machine is going to be screaming soon!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-14-2018 at 11:04am

I am also going to drop another 1200 into manifolds and risers. The dry joint stuff I have is only a year old and pressure tested fine, looks fine but is Sierra and made in Taiwan. Don't trust it. New Mercruiser OEM stuff being ordered Monday. Kaitlin Rose will have it together over the week and ready to ....

I am not too familiar with the mercruiser stuff is there a reason why you prefer it over spending 800 bucks on pcm risers and manifolds?
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baitkiller View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-14-2018 at 11:53am
Yes. It eliminates the possibility of gasket failure. The water passages are external of the riser gasket. In my experience, riser gasket failure is equal to riser corrosion in regards to engine failure.


Trying to embed a pic buts not letting me today.. odd.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-14-2018 at 11:55am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-14-2018 at 12:07pm
Hey Joe, we discussed options of adding a bit of hook instead of installing a tab or plate at one time. I think you had tried a few things and had some ideas. Can you remind me of what worked?
Thanks
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baitkiller View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-14-2018 at 12:21pm
NM I found it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-23-2018 at 3:32pm
Put it in Saturday, Put 3 hours on it Sunday just poking around doing break in time. Runs great but doesn't feel real snappy. I may have to tear the carburetor down for cleaning. Ill wait on it for now though. The engine builder supplied a break-in protocol that involves 20 hours.
You heard me... 20 hours.
The engine runs a roller camshaft.
As I have no intention of staying out of it for 20 hours I would like the opinion of the collected brain trust in regards to break in.
Eddie, if you are listening, what did you do that pretty bow tie you put in your boat?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-23-2018 at 4:21pm
I can see how they wouldn't want you to run long sustained loads for a while but if they are asking you to stay off it for 20 hrs that's hard to justify with a modern engine/oil. You have a roller cam which takes the hard part out of it. Bearings don't break in, so that just leaves rings/cylinder wall - Not knowing the rings or the hone – its hard to know how long they should take to break in.. but they probably have already. I do the ten hard sprints/stops ASAP method typically – partly cause who wants to wait. Done it to a dozen boats now and never been an issue – but best be sure about your cooling/timing etc. I am a bit surprised you haven’t noticed some snappiness – did they give you timing specs for the new long block- should be a little lower I suspect. Are you using spark plugs for the vortec heads?   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-23-2018 at 4:52pm
Thanks Joe. They gave me a spec sheet that was just general GM 5.7 and suspect the plugs are wrong. The parts guy raised an eyebrow. I'm going to double check the timing as well its at 8* with the advance module cancelled.
Ill post up the break in thing when I get a chance.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-23-2018 at 5:10pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-23-2018 at 5:22pm
According to everything I can find out I have the right plugs in it..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-23-2018 at 6:27pm
So whatever plug you're using does it have a reach of .708 inches?

Having done this swap a number of years ago in a friend's boat we used Autolite AP 605 plugs cause that's what was in the engine when we took it out of the truck.

It sounds like you have a distributor like a Delco EST or maybe a Mercruiser with electronic timing control and no flyweights.

We used a Mallory and ran it with 10 degrees advance at idle and about 32 at anything above 3500 rpm or so.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-23-2018 at 6:35pm
Mercruiser Thunderbolt 5. is about as bullet proof an ignition as has ever been made. Set at 9* with the timing shunt in. Moves to 12* without. The last engine I did it old skool. Ran it WFO and turned it up until it pinged a tiny bit then backed it off a tad. No ping, tan plugs, ran fantastic for about 700 hours before the valve seat fell out. The engine failure was certainly not timing related. I have no idea what the actual timing was. I need to get a timing tape or advance light and see what the total curve is.
Do you guys trust the advance lights? Or should I just order a tape for the right size balancer?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-23-2018 at 6:37pm
It runs fine as wine. Smooth and tourquey. Power rolls on nice. Just not "snappy" like the older engine with less theoretical power.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-23-2018 at 6:58pm
Originally posted by baitkiller baitkiller wrote:

It runs fine as wine.


Would that be some good stuff like Boone's Farm or Ripple or Thunderbird?

I suppose with timing lights, it's whatever you're used to.

I'm real slowly getting more used to the advance lights but I probably use the old one more.

The tach on the advance lights is a nice feature too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-23-2018 at 7:42pm
Apothic Red... The daily driver.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-23-2018 at 7:51pm
Break in procedure,
The most critical thing is to avoid overheat at all costs.
Brand new engines are tight and will run hotter than your old engine.
Internal heat, cylinder chamber heat increases from spinning this new engine while it is tight.
They loosen up quickly. Your rings should have been seated the first time you took off at 75% throttle. I bet that happened already.
I would not run it wide open for any time at all.   If you run wide open back off as soon as it get close to max RPM.   Fluctuating your speed helps break in a new engine.
After a few hours change your oil.
A 383 will normally pull far stronger from 1,500 RPM to 3,500 RPM, if built right it may have 100 more pounds of torque in this range. You should feel that for sure.
Set back timing lights work very well and let you confirm your timing at idle and at all of the RPM ranges. A great tool to help tune accurately.
Vortec heads don't like a lot of timing due to fast burn chambers.. Most say they have max power between 28 and 32 degrees in by 3,000-3,500 RPM. Cars may want the timing all in sooner but in a boat you are always under load..
Start low and go up slowly while checking for detonation under load. It is easy to detonate a piston to death.
Detonation can cut an engines power by 30% in a heartbeat. Usually felt as you accelerate, engine pulling hard and suddenly the exhaust tune changes slightly and the engine power falls off.
You may have a lean burn condition due to the extra 33 cubic inches.   More inches = more fuel needed.
Get it tuned and keep us posted. I think you will love this new engine.
When racing you build it on Friday and race it on Saturday. Break in consisted of making sure you had perfect timing, good oil pressure and the radiator was topped off.
Then it was considered ready to race.
What prop are you turning?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-23-2018 at 7:57pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

Originally posted by baitkiller baitkiller wrote:

It runs fine as wine.

Would that be some good stuff like Boone's Farm or Ripple or Thunderbird? .

Ken,
You forgot the MD 20-20. Take a step up!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-23-2018 at 8:00pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

Originally posted by baitkiller baitkiller wrote:

It runs fine as wine.

Would that be some good stuff like Boone's Farm or Ripple or Thunderbird? .

Ken,
You forgot the MD 20-20. Take a step up!


I'm old like you Pete, I couldn't think of the other high school favorite but you got it.

I think the Mad Dog was/still is a classic
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-23-2018 at 8:02pm
Originally posted by MrMcD MrMcD wrote:


You may have a lean burn condition due to the extra 33 cubic inches.   More inches = more fuel needed.


He's missing those 33 cubic inches, he bought a 350 Vortec
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-23-2018 at 8:10pm
Thanks Mark. A week or so ago I posted that the 6.2 turned out to be burned slap up. I decided to buy a re manufactured 5,7 vortec instead of trying to save it.. The 5.7 should be around 340 horse carburerated. Same displacement and the same carburetor.
I only have an afternoon on it.
Plan as of now is to do the one thing that I did not do. Strip and clean the carb. So Ill do that and check timing all-in, test ride and report back.
Full advance target is 32 degrees?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-24-2018 at 1:47am
I missed the downsize of the engine. A Vortec running well will stomp on a standard 260HP Mercury Marine. I know first hand. A friend had his oil changed in his boat.
One of his buddies picked the boat up from the dealer after the maintenance work.
He went straight to the lake and burned up the engine before leaving the 5 mph zone.
The shop forgot to fill it with oil.
The borrower did not watch gauges.
I had the stock 350 260 HP and that boat got the newer replacement Vortec Marine engine.   We formerly had the same power, after the Vortec install that other boat picked up about 500 RPM all else the same.   We ran pretty close out of the hole but the Vortec beat the snot out of me from 3,000 RPM and up.
My max RPM was 4,500 maybe 4,700 on a great day.   The Vortec in the same boat, same prop was spinning up to 5,200 RPM. It ran hard.
You may wish to do some reading to see what proper timing is for your new engine with Vortec Heads. Start a little conservative and add more later if needed.
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