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Wiring Harness

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Gravel_Laker View Drop Down
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    Posted: April-11-2018 at 12:06am
Looking to replace this wiring harness or a 1971 Mustang with a Chevy 305 5.0 in it.

Anyone have an idea where to get one or even where I can find the wiring schematic?


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Gary S View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-11-2018 at 12:35am
I'm not sure this is even it but check out ebasic power they have several different ones
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shierh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-11-2018 at 12:00pm
You could make your own and use terminal strips instead of pin connectors.   Nothing wrong with using same color wire with wire labels on them as long as you keep a chart in your boat book. The harness is basically to make it quicker to install and remove the engine. Other benefit of a pin connector is they are water resistant and better with dielectric grease.   Terminal strip can work just as good if you use anti corrosive product and put a cover over it to keep stuff from shorting it out.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote swilliams Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2018 at 7:15am
That would be an OMC motor most likely. Find an OMC service manual for that vintage(need model #) and it will give you the schematic. Finding the harness will be the hard part.
1976 Martinique,350 Omc. 1975 Glastron/Carlson CV16,115 Merc.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2018 at 11:55am
Color codes are all the same.
Brown / white will be the oil and temp alarm.
Gray is tach
Purple is switched power or ignition
Red is unswitched power or dash feed
Light blue is oil pressure
tan is temp
Pink is fuel guage
Yellow / red is start circuit.
Big orange is for an ammeter.
Good luck
Hope that helps.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2018 at 12:10pm
Kerry,
Were you able to determine the cause of the meltdown? Hopefully you have plus, with the rewire, I highly recommend adding overcurrent protection.

Also, OMC liked to add a diode in the wiring harness. Check for one. It prevents draining the battery when the engine isn't running.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gravel_Laker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2018 at 2:07pm
Thanks you all. Good Info!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shierh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2018 at 2:09pm
interested in the Diode in the circuit. can you provide a basic schematic showing where it would be placed?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gravel_Laker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2018 at 2:11pm
I bought the boat like this...it's going to be a project. I looks to be critter damage as you can see tooth marks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gravel_Laker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2018 at 2:36pm
I really don't know yet. I just found a schematic for all the engine wiring.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shierh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2018 at 4:17pm
Was hopeful that 8122pbrainard would provide a simple schematic.    I know how a diode works but don't understand how it could prevent battery drain when switch is off.   A diagram could be helpful to explain.     I usually bounce this stuff off of "the word".
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2018 at 5:03pm
Thread on back feed diode

#2 thread on omc diode

Diode:


Kerry,
On the diagram you found, does it show the diode? It may be labled as a "fuse" or "fusable link"




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shierh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2018 at 5:44pm
So if a switch had corrosion in it and was completing a circuit while it was in the off position or other corrosion was grounding a circuit t then this device would not do a thing?

Diode used in alternator to make ac current go one direction to make it a DC charger is one thing but what good would it be outside of that?   Guessing this is why you don't see this component in other boat circuits outside of a galvanic isolator for safety ground on a shore power hook up.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2018 at 6:49pm
Steve,
My understanding is OMC used the diode on some of their engines to control the diection of the DC preventing a backfeed.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shierh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-13-2018 at 1:19pm
Lost me there, not sure how you back feed a DC circuit other than reverse polarity and if that occurs the wire melts down instantly and fuse blows etc.
Still don't see how it prevents battery from dying while switch is off.   Guess ill consult "the word"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Duane in Indy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-13-2018 at 11:15pm
Don't hold your breath on an answer. I am as lost as you. Thought I understood diodes and fuse able links but guess not now
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-14-2018 at 9:14am
The quote from Mustang Madness below tells where it's located (alternator output to battery) so the electrical flow only goes to the battery.

If you have a bad diode or diodes in the rectifier assembly in the voltage regulator you would have a flow path from the battery to ground through the alternator when the engine wasn't running. Not a big amount of current but enough to discharge the battery overnight or over a day or two depending on how much flow there is. Not enough to melt wires You'd also have reduced charging capacity when the engine was running, because of the bad diode(s).

A diode would stop the back flow.in that situation. and with a fusible link in the assembly you have overcurrent protection for the output wire in either direction of flow.

Now if somebody like SWilliams, who I'm sure has an OMC manual from the mid 70's could scan and post a wiring diagram, it would gives plenty of info about that assembly like whether there is both a fusible link and a diode in there. The maintenance manual must have some info.




[QUOTE=MustangMadness] My battery stopped charging. I measure only 12.5v when running above idle. When running my amp meter (not a voltmeter) reads 0 or slight discharge. That ball device is on the output from the alternator to battery lead on the starter solenoid, not the vreg output to field.. It would make more sense to me if it were a fuse. I would include a pic of it if I were up at my camp. I will include in a day or 2.

It looks like this ball https://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=OMC0383432

I found a new one on eBay

$20 delivered, can't beat it!

I guess it is a fusible link of sorts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote swilliams Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-14-2018 at 9:58am
Can do! Kerry, pm me your email address and I can email the wiring diagram if you like. Include your motor model number and I’ll see if it matches the different ones the manual covers. Regardless, the wiring should be about the same as mine.
1976 Martinique,350 Omc. 1975 Glastron/Carlson CV16,115 Merc.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-14-2018 at 10:08am
Hi Steve

If you could e mail your wiring diagram to me too, I'd like to see it and I'm sure learn a little more about OMC's

Also, what brand is the alternator ?

e mail is keno439@gmail.com

Thanks
KenO
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shierh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-14-2018 at 10:12am
Keno, good explanation.

So it seems it is not a necessary component, only there if the internal diode within the alternator fails.   So if the internal one fails would not the back up one get pretty hot? doesn't seem that an insulated diode would be able to cool down.   
Can diodes leak back just a little and not completely fail?   if so then i see how this component could be useful.   

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-14-2018 at 10:30am
Originally posted by shierh shierh wrote:

Keno, good explanation.

So it seems it is not a necessary component, only there if the internal diode within the alternator fails.   So if the internal one fails would not the back up one get pretty hot? doesn't seem that an insulated diode would be able to cool down.   
Can diodes leak back just a little and not completely fail?   if so then i see how this component could be useful.   



Far from very knowledgeable on diodes, but I think they either work or don't work, no in between.

The rectifiers usually have 6 diodes to magically turn the AC from the alternator into DC and they can fail individually. I think the external OMC diode would be sized for being able to handle full alternator output by itself.

I'd say it's not necessary, but nice to have

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote swilliams Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-14-2018 at 11:25am
Prestolite ALK-6222A or 6222AY alternator. Parts book show that as a fuse and lead assembly. Fairly ugly assembly but it’s there to protect. My engine has it. 60 amp fuse.
1976 Martinique,350 Omc. 1975 Glastron/Carlson CV16,115 Merc.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-14-2018 at 2:02pm
Originally posted by shierh shierh wrote:

Lost me there, not sure how you back feed a DC circuit other than reverse polarity and if that occurs the wire melts down instantly and fuse blows etc.

Steve,
I feel you are confusing a direct short which would be a positive to negative connection. Yes, that sure would blow a fuse but a positive to positive connection will not.

Regarding a "back feed" and the diode, picture a water pipe with a water source at each end with a check valve in the middle . The check valve prevents water flow in one direction the same as a diode prevents current flow in one direction..


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-14-2018 at 2:35pm
So Steve,(Williams) since you have one.......................

It's time to pull that off the alternator and test it to see if there's a diode in there and solve this mystery.

Here's a link to testing a diode with a meter.

In a nutshell, hook the meter leads up one way and then reverse the leads and compare readings.

If there's no diode, you'll have continuity in both directions

If there's a diode, you'll have continuity in one direction and an open circuit in the other.

Depending on part numbers, OMC calls some of them a fuse and lead assembly and others a diode and blocking assembly.


link
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-14-2018 at 7:02pm
For somebody named Steve who might want a spare one of these fuse and lead assemblies check this link on EBAY..( I remember your hunt for black Mallory YL distributor springs)

Don't know if it's the same part number since you didn't give one but I bet it is.

I bought one just because I felt like it so I could see just what it really is OMC 383432. is the part number

I figure it'll come in handy on most any alternator.

There are some a little cheaper than the one I linked, but I like the place in the link, having bought stuff from them before You can also find them for a whole lot more money if you so desire.

.link

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2018 at 5:49pm
Well, the mailman left me a package today.

My OMC part showed up so I figured I'd figure out what's inside the ugly blob of epoxy.

Took the multimeter and it conducted in both directions then also put it in the supply to a 12 volt light in both directions and the light lit up both ways so....................ain't no diode in there

Now I gotta decide what to do with this thing. I could keep it hanging around, I could use it as OMC meant as overcurrent protection for the alternator output wire or I could cut the wrapping off and see why OMC and now Bombardier charged a fairly outrageous list price of about 55 bucks for it.

They're a whole lot cheaper on EBAY after nobody has bought one for the last 20 years or so and it's taking up shelf space.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2018 at 6:13pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

..ain't no diode in there
Now I gotta decide what to do with this thing.

Ken,
I think you should send it to Billy as he's the one that started the whole diode concept!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2018 at 6:37pm
Can you return it?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2018 at 7:25pm
Sorry no returns on electrical parts ! 😮
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-19-2018 at 9:02am
I think I'll hang it right in plain sight at the workbench as a reminder of how good the internet can be at spreading bum dope.at times.

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