shaft ejected underway

What was the rag, a kevlar reinforced beach towel or something?

But anyways, welcome to CCF.

If your shaft came out of the coupling and slid backwards, you have some definite issues here. That's normally an interference fit meaning you have to heat the coupling to 500 or so degrees to be able to slip it on the shaft, (unless you have one of the newer double tapered shafts)

Since you put it back together out on the water you're either really, really strong or the fit between the coupling and shaft is very loose. I'd guess it's the fit being bad. It's never a good thing to be able to slide the coupling on by hand

Since you could drive it back, you at least know the transmission works but whether it's 100% who knows.

You'll need a new shaft and coupling due to the loose fit

They can develop this loose fit over time due to bad shaft alignment.

Don't know what the high pitched whine is but it could be from the slop between the coupling and shaft while it's rotating.

How's your prop? It probably hit the rudder when the shaft came out of the coupling unless you had a collar on the shaft in front of the packing gland nut to limit how far it could move.

Unhook the shaft coupler from the trans and see it the shaft is binding or stiff. The trans could be run then at that time. Although no load would be on the trans you may be able to detect some noise. If the rag was dragging the trans down before it locked it up then it is possible you have a clutch issue. Just need to start diagnosing each part of the drive train
.Good luck

8122pbrainard wrote: I feel Frank will find the noise is from the packing gland. Duane, I've been there!

I have to agree that the packing gland could be the culprit. IF the rag happened to grab the nut and spin it tighter then that could easily be the problem. Anyway taking the shaft loose should tell a lot.

edit:   but would the trans have to be in reverse to tighten the nut??

Thanks all for your input. The "rag" was an oil absorbent pad, placed under the transmission to collect the leakage. Pure negligence on my part not monitoring the bilge level and it floated up and got caught in the coupling. It put up a good fight because there were shredded pieces of the pad everywhere.     The prop damage was a small dent in one blade, repairable. As easy as it was to re-fit the shaft, wear is definitely an issue. I haven't yet had a chance to investigate the engine/shaft/strut alignment.   I work away from home and plan to tear into next week when I get back. I've already ordered a rebuild kit for the transmission, its leaking bad so it was on my list of projects anyway and I like to tinker. Most likely I will be replacing the shaft and will go with the double taper.
I bought the boat under the "next project" premise. Stringers are visibly/hammer tap sound but they have made a fool of me before. There is an aluminum frame bolted to the stringers, the engine/transmission bolted to the frame. I'm not sure if that is factory or a previous owner's attempt to shore it up. I will know more in the near future and will gladly share what I find. Asking for help here is the smartest move I've made so far!   Thanks again.

commando wrote: Hello CC world. I'm looking for advice from the vast experience displayed here: in short; 1980 ski nautique, 1:1 velvet drive

From his first post, this might tell ya something

The oil pad was actually about 8 feet long. It came off a roll, like paper towels just exponentially more durable. It was a continuous section folded and folded to make a mat. I had it wedged under the transmission and held down by the freshwater intake hose that routed under there. When it floated free I can only imagine that the coupling caught an end and wrapped all 8 feet around itself before giving up the ghost. It was tightly bound around the output coupling.   I also had never checked the set screws to see if they were seated and tight either, most likely a combination of the two screwups got me in to my present situation.