hooking a hose up to 87 correct craft

okay I thought it was a bent prop, it isn't think the drive shaft might be bent. But also thinking it could be the transmission. I finally yanked it out of the water. How can I hook up a hose so that I can run it out of water. Someone told me you can get a part @ home depot to do this.

Or, if (like me), you're too stupid to think of that, you can buy a fake-a-lake for $20 from West Marine.

You can just disconnect the hose at the water intake coming in through the bottom of the boat and run the garden hose into the intake hose. When I do this, I usually use the clamp to connect the intake hose to the garden hose. BKH

I just do like BKH. suggests. I have done this for 12 years with no problems.

Pat

Tim:

I suppose you have valve between the PVC "T" and the thru hull inlet. What type of valve are you using?

Also, I suppose the garden hose fitting has a plastic ball valve incorporated?

Did the operating temps go up slightly due to any flow restrictions?

Actually David, I dont have any valves in my setup. Its simply a T with an endcap. No valve between the hose connection and hull inlet either- it couldnt be simpler. Engine temps are exactly 160 on the lake as well as the hose.

Like I said a previous owner (either M3Fan or previous) installed this setup, and it works very well. My dad usually uses a garden hose spicket T'd in at the same location- no tools involved to hook up the hose at all.

Im not sure how much air it's sucking. I give it plenty of water pressure from the hose, so its not running warmer than 160 in the driveway. Its also nice to know Im not forcing too much pressure in there- any excess would drain from the hull inlet.

Its a great mod- its one of the first things we do to a boat when we get it. That and quick disconnects for the heater hoses.

I thought he wanted to run his engine to check for a vibration or something. No matter how much water you get to the engine isn't it a bad thing to run the boat in gear out of the water. Won't the bussings in the strut go bad.

thanks alot.

I’m interested in the last idea because I was told by Vince at SKIDIM that the RW pump will fill a 5 gal bucket in 15 seconds at 3000 rpm. Not that you would be running the motor that high but I’m thinking you would have to have a good head start on water volume in order to keep from sucking the bucket dry. Were as if you hook the hose up direct or on a T the pump may draw a suction or with a T you would be at least keeping the pump lubed at all times??? I think 95% of all the water going in just goes through the exhaust and maybe 5% goes to through the thermostat for engine cooling. What does every one else think?

I like the winterizing idea. I just was thinking the bucket of water thing was something a person would have to be careful and watch the fluid level and hose position at the same time resolve whatever problems they are having for which they need to run engine out of water for. Where as if you have it conneceted right to the hose it is relitivy safe to walk away for few moments and not worry about pump going dry.

I really doubt that the RWP has to be flowing full volume/capacity to protect the impellar. Just so long as there is water flowing to keep the impellar lubricate and cool, it will be fine. A garden hose can certainly provide the volume necessary to keep the impellar from being adversly effected. Also, an engine run without load will get sufficient cooling from the lower volume of water.

jholton wrote: I like the winterizing idea. I just was thinking the bucket of water thing was something a person would have to be careful and watch the fluid level and hose position at the same time resolve whatever problems they are having for which they need to run engine out of water for. Where as if you have it conneceted right to the hose it is relitivy safe to walk away for few moments and not worry about pump going dry.

I never walk away from it. I just fill the bucket up and then start the engine. Typically when it is idling the hose will overflow the bucket so I just increase the rpm some to lower the level in the bucket. There really is no reason to run it above idle on the trailer since you do your timing at idle and you need to run it at idle to get the engine hot to winterize.

When I winterize I will turn the shower on full hot and run it into the bucket while it is running and only add enough cold water to keep the bucket full. This lets the engine warm up quicker so you can run the antifreeze in with an open thermostat. When I am done I check the block for antifreeze , never take any hoses off. I do crimp the hose that goes to my shaft seal and also make sure the shower is off before putting the antifreeze in.


As far as water lubing the impeller with the T in the hose:

It only takes a second to ruin the impeller so I really do not see any reason to take a chance. I replace it every spring as it is. Cheap insurance.

Tim

Yes PSS seal. As for antifreeze....whatever is on sale. Usually the RV stuff.