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1969 Spoiler

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Grand Poobah
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-21-2018 at 10:56pm
OK in Petes pic theres a plug there thought that was what he was talking about
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-21-2018 at 10:59pm
Originally posted by candiworley89 candiworley89 wrote:

Originally posted by gun-driver gun-driver wrote:

Pete if you look at her pic it looks like it has a piece of threaded pipe(copper color) where the plug would be.


That's where the water line goes in or out

I agree. Since you did get about 3" with your "dip stick", I feel you're good. Now, disconnect the intermediate drive shaft again and check the U joints. They should move freely without any binding.


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77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
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Grand Poobah
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2018 at 8:51am
Candi,
I've watched the video a couple more times and I'm not too sure there's a U joint problem. I'd pull a plug on the top of the V drive and get a bore scope in to take a look at the two gears. Also, when you had the intermediate shaft disconnected, did you turn the V drive box by hand feeling for any roughness or binding when rotated?


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77 Tique

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Keep it original, Pete
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lakeview Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2018 at 10:38am
BAD U-JOINT-I would replace both ends
Lakeview
1992 Barefoot Nautique
1967 Barracuda SS
1967 Chris Craft Cavalier
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote candiworley89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2018 at 10:56am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Candi,
I've watched the video a couple more times and I'm not too sure there's a U joint problem. I'd pull a plug on the top of the V drive and get a bore scope in to take a look at the two gears. Also, when you had the intermediate shaft disconnected, did you turn the V drive box by hand feeling for any roughness or binding when rotated?


I did, it spun just fine...I spun it slow and back and forth trying to feel for anything in the gears and it was smooth. No slips, resistance , or roughness...

For the first several minutes it did great but when we were coming back to the dock from a second short test run it started again... I am not used to driving it yet so I was super careful. When I pulled back up to the dock I was at a slow speed and started pretty far away idling and it was perfect. But, when we were on our way back in for a second time, after being put in forward and reverse a few times more it started. It started right when it was taken from one gear to another not while cruising in the same gear.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2018 at 11:26am
Originally posted by Lakeview Lakeview wrote:

BAD U-JOINT-I would replace both ends


It's gotten to where people are yelling about the u joints now   

It's not hard to get a good idea if the u joints are good or bad

Just take that connecting shaft and rotate it side to side in both directions and then move it up and down and sideways at each end near the joint.

Any slop probably is telling you that the little needle bearings in the end caps are worn or turned into a fine metallic dust over the years.

It'll be pretty obvious when you do it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2018 at 11:49am


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77 Tique

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ultrarunner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2018 at 1:13pm
Put a prop on it first. A chuck missing that large is going to throw everything out of wack from a vibration standpoint...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2018 at 3:28pm
It seems like the damper plate idea was forgotten in this discussion. Once the U-joints are checked out I'd not rule it out, sounded a lot like mine when the plate was bad. And, goes from metallic rattle at idle to smooth as silk with a few rpm which is the case here.

Candi, that is just a beautiful boat, put a smile on my face to hear your story and that your dad will be able to ride with you as you put it back to good use. As for your uncles ...... I'd keep them away from it from now on!
'63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2018 at 3:37pm
Originally posted by 63 Skier 63 Skier wrote:

It seems like the damper plate idea was forgotten in this discussion. Once the U-joints are checked out I'd not rule it out, sounded a lot like mine when the plate was bad. And, goes from metallic rattle at idle to smooth as silk with a few rpm which is the case here.


It got some mention on page 1 of this thread, but hasn't been checked out
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2018 at 4:34pm
Right, I was referencing Joe's suggestion. Also Candi, as you are looking at the u-joints if they seem OK look for a zerk fitting in the joint, may have to rotate to find it, get some grease into it.
'63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote candiworley89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-25-2018 at 1:41am
So....I have bad news...

I removed the drive shaft from the gear box and the transmission and it appears to move great, but I am probably going to replace the u joints anyway...50 years is a long time.

Well, when I realized it wasn't the u joints...I had to check the gear box.

I started breaking that sucker down. I didn't get too far when the bolts I was removing started to come out with metal fragments on the ends......

Then, I drained out the oil and it didn't seem too bad, kind of pretty and metallic looking actually. I strained it and there were not hardly any metal pieces...So, then I took a q-tip and stuck it in a few the bolt holes...SO MANY SMALL PIECES OF METAL... Here are pictures...

Any chance it could be a little less bad than it seems? I'm ordering a bore scope now...












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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-25-2018 at 6:39am
Candi,
Pulling thread pieces is pretty common with older aluminum castings that have been around moisture. Continue on and after a good cleaning if the threads look real bad, thread inserts can be installed. A slightly larger hole is drilled, tapped. and the insert is then threaded into the new tapped holes. The inside of the insert will have the original size threads for the original bolts.

Thread insert:


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77 Tique

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Duane in Indy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-25-2018 at 10:07am
Flush & or blow the holes out real well. Good chance some lazy machinist just did not clean the holes out after he tapped them. Worst case scenario is to insert them as Pete said.
Keep it as original as YOU want it
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-25-2018 at 2:21pm
And, when you go to reassemble, check if there is a torque spec for those bolts, if not one could be suggested here. They may tighten up just fine but if you try to over tighten you'll strip them and need the thread inserts, not the end of the world but I suspect you'll tighten up OK with some care.
'63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique
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