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Back with a new project....

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Treybizttu View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Treybizttu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-07-2018 at 9:47am
Originally posted by 79SNbrady 79SNbrady wrote:

Did you ever figure out the direction your going with roller vs flat tappet? or is the jury still out until you tear apart the vented engine?


Roller, it was clarified somewhere along the road but I don't think I mentioned it.

I've got a new long block sitting in my warehouse.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Treybizttu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-10-2018 at 6:38pm
Fun stuff now I'm going to get the bildge cleaned up and:

Replace all the hoses. (Fuel/Cooling/Etc)
Add an underwater light
New Bilge Pumps (one works and sounds terrible.
New Ballast hoses and Pumps (set up for bags)

Probably need to put some thought into a steering cable and re-pack of the shaft as well.

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Treybizttu View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Treybizttu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-27-2019 at 2:17pm
Finally getting off my rear and getting started. Took a few days off during the kids spring break and I'll spend some of it on the boat.

Ordered all my external motor parts, ballast, bildge and all related goodies today. Plan is to have the motor in this month and ready to start by april fools day.

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Treybizttu View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Treybizttu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-14-2019 at 9:38am



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63 Skier View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-14-2019 at 9:51am
Well that looks promising!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Treybizttu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-14-2019 at 10:41am
Getting there.

So something I don't have a whole ton of knowledge on... Installting the Distributor+ Priming the oil pump.
- I figured the pump needs to be primed before the first start but that leads me to a few questions.. I'm probably not going to put the motor in for another 2 weeks. I've still got to get the bildge area sorted out and I'm not home much for a bit. If I prime it now or soon does it matter if it sits for a few weeks? I'm trying to decide if I want to fill it with oil, prime it, and stab the distributor now or wait until i'm ready. I've also only installed one distributor in my entire life so making sure I get that right has been confusing. It would be nice to have the motor as buttoned up and ready to go as will fit through as we lower it in to reduce the amount I'm doing in the boat itself.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-14-2019 at 10:54am
It's not the oil pump that you are priming, it's the engine. By spinning the pump you force oil through all the passages so there's no dry time during startup. Curious if others here feel a newly rebuilt engine is lubed enough to not bother with priming, but I'd tend to do it. Basically you have a drill extension that matches the distributor end and spins the oil pump for a bit to build pressure and send oil all over the engine.

If you prime it and it sits a few weeks I don't see that as being a problem at all.
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Treybizttu View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Treybizttu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-14-2019 at 12:27pm
Originally posted by 63 Skier 63 Skier wrote:

It's not the oil pump that you are priming, it's the engine. By spinning the pump you force oil through all the passages so there's no dry time during startup. Curious if others here feel a newly rebuilt engine is lubed enough to not bother with priming, but I'd tend to do it. Basically you have a drill extension that matches the distributor end and spins the oil pump for a bit to build pressure and send oil all over the engine.

If you prime it and it sits a few weeks I don't see that as being a problem at all.


I understood the process but wondered how effective it was to do so if the motor still has a few weeks for the oil to run back into the pan. Curious what others think that obviously know more than me about rebuilds. :)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-14-2019 at 12:31pm
Priming it right before the first crank would be beat, but priming a few weeks earlier would be better than not priming at all. I would slowly move the crank while priming to make sure oil gets everywhere.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Treybizttu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-14-2019 at 12:50pm
Also need to figure out what oil to run for the first change.... I know several Python owners are running rotella which is fine by me but I need to figure out if I should run anything different the first go round.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-14-2019 at 12:55pm
Convention is non-synth straight 30w for initial engine break in (~10hrs) but I’d confirm with the builder. They should have a recommendation on weight to run afterwards as well (based on the clearances that they set).

Roller cam usually means it’ll be pretty tolerant of oil choice. A decent, reasonably priced option like rotella, delo or gtx would get my vote (for break-in).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-14-2019 at 1:56pm
Most engines that have roller lifters have a 5w-20,30 or 40 weight oil so they lubricate right away. I did not check to see if Marine engines have the same recommendation when running roller lifters.
!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-14-2019 at 3:35pm
They don’t. 15w40 was the recommendation in the (PCM) vortec 350, iirc. I suspect the 6.0L is the same.

In any case, oil weight is related to the clearances and not the cam choice- probably best not to confuse the issue.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Treybizttu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-14-2019 at 5:37pm
I've seen 15-40 and 20-50 from a few different people. I think my motor guy mentioned it but wasnt on my paperwork from him. Sent him a note this morning to see what he says.

I haven't gotten off my rump to call or email anybody but i'm curious if there are any remote oil filter kits still floating around.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-14-2019 at 11:57pm
Tim, I have seen, working in the Automotive Rebuilding business lifter failures and they were attributed to people running heavier oils.   These were people that switched from the recommended 5-30 to 10-40W in freshly rebuilt engines. The rollers on the lifters were slow to get oil.   Not the lifter mechanism, just the roller needles. It was also in cold climates in the winter that we would see these issues.   In boats most do not go out when it is sub 30 degrees so it may not be an issue.
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