Back with a new project....

Doing my research on the 502 has lead me to something... Almost every 502 long or short block I’ve found is roller cam but from what I gather these came factory flat Tappet. The only actual python rebuild I’ve found was on here by James and he went with a roller cam but I haven’t found anything in his posts specific to the cam. Basically I’m wondering if it really matters

If it were me I’d spend the extra $ and go with a roller.

Found this in a Chevy forum after a search...

“Putting a flat tappet into a factory roller block is dirt simple. Shove in the flat tappet cam and lifters, remove the stock roller cam retaining plate, install a standard flat tappet timing chain set (which is different from the roller cam chain set) and you're good to go. Done it several times. Most recently last month on a super-cheap 350 that's going in my wife's 92 Camaro "fun car."

The flat tappet lifters will look kinda "funny" sitting WAY down in those extra-tall roller lifter bores, but they'll work just peachy. In fact, the factory often used flat tappet cams in roller block castings for truck and boat engines. This is exactly how they did it.

Oh yeah...... you'll need flat-tappet length pushrods, too (~7.8"). Roller pushrods are shorter than those used on flat tappet cams in a SBC. No biggie. A decent cheap set can be had for just about nothing. A good set for about twice almost nothing.”

Well,

I forgot to unhook the batteries last trip to the lake and now they are both aparently dead. From what I gather my only access to the hatch is to remove the rear seat and un-do the pin holding down the hatch. What fun...

I wish it was running.. I actually haven't touched it at all. I was going to vacuum it out and unhook the batteries this weekend but only got the housekeeping portion done.

I'm working on a kitchen remodel so the boat comes next in a few months. I've got everything worked out with a somewhat local motor builder just need to send my money for a long block and get some time set aside for the swap. It's killing me to not work on it but I made a promise to the lady in charge.

Thanks for the tip, I'm headed back this weekend or next and will get it sorted out.

Ended up with some free time this weekend at the lake and without the other half/kids so me and a buddy worked on the boat.


Funny: We were opening the hatch and I accidentally bumped the starter with my buddy standing right behind it. It actually fired (immediately oddly enough) and scared him to death since he was right by the exhaust and not expecting it. It was just for a split second so it didn't sound awful but it did push the rod farther out of the oil pan.   

Took the manifolds, hoses, throttle cable, starter, etc off the motor. Also pulled the ballasts, and dividers. the factory tanks will not be going back in. Labeled and took plenty of pictures so I can hopefully go back in fairly easy.

I am beginning to wonder how complete i can keep it from here on out before it will squeeze out of there... I know the FCC needs to come off as it sticks pretty far out there. I'll need to seperate the Trans and V-Drive and slide them forward a bit.

I have only had one for 5 years now,if it wasn't on it when I bought it I doubt I would add one because I wouldn't know any different. I have to say it is nice when your heading in when the sun's going down and your still soaking wet. I think when they have trouble it's the core that leaks,hoses seem to last quite awhile.

63 Skier wrote: I installed mine a few years ago, wouldn't be without one now, but then again I'm in NH, not TX! I've read about cores leaking, there's nothing else to go wrong with them, I suppose a blower could fail but it's not like we're putting many hours on them. I'd suspect that where you find a leaking core you find a poorly winterized boat, but I'm just guessing that, no firsthand experience. Trey, with all your disassembly work I think next time the first thing to disconnect might be the battery ground!

Haha, it came off right after.... It was actually only connected so we could raise the hatch and pull the pin. I just got button happy and away it went. Batteries are actually sitting on the bench on a trickle charger.

Kitchen Remodel finished today less a few paint touch ups so it's time to start working on the boat... Very excited to get this sucker moving along.

Always interesting to see the sheer power of that rotating mass of metal! Bending one of those is no easy task.

Yup, some Lucas, JB Weld, and straighten it out and you'll be good to go!

I've got it down to the long block in the boat right now. Hoping to get it out one night this week at a buddies shop. I think I want to seperate the motor from the trans and leave the trans/v-drive intact. I should have enough room to slide the motor back a little. It's tight quarters back there when the motor is fully dressed but not horrible with all of the stuff that hangs off of it missing.

Lol, my wife is the definition of a fair weather boater. Heater wouldn't help my cause.

SNobsessed wrote: Could give flex seal a try!

For heavy duty marine applications you must use a screen and THEN flex seal

Drug the boat to the office today. Going to use the forklift this evening and get the motor out. I'd really like to leave the trans and v-drive intact. Since all of the accesories are off the front of the motor and I've actually got a little wiggle room to do so any reason I don't want to do it that way?

Well, someone had suggested that I take the v-drive and trans loose and scoot them back vs going to opposite direction with the motor. But, I believe that was under the impression all the accessories were still hanging off the front of the motor.

Nice work. You are making a hard job look easy.