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Weird gt40 miss/stumbling - please help!

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MrMcD View Drop Down
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    Posted: August-26-2018 at 3:17pm
I think I used rubbing alcohol purchased at the local pharmacy.
I might have been listening to Hotel California! Saw the Eagles live several times back in the late 70's.
On one ticket at the Oakland Colosseum we saw, America, The Eagles, The Doobie Brothers and closed out with Chicago.   Great Show.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-26-2018 at 7:15am
Originally posted by MrMcD MrMcD wrote:

I had a BMW once that had water in the gas tank
We finally cleaned it out using alcohol.   I don't remember what kind we used but I was told the alcohol would disperse the water off the bottom of the tank and help it burn as it traveled through your fuel system..

Mark,
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-26-2018 at 2:41am
Fuel does not age well anymore.   If it is 6 mos old or more get rid of it.
If you go in lawn mower shops they will have a sign up warning owners of using bad gas.
Maybe your gas was not that old and maybe it is just water in your fuel.
I had a BMW once that had water in the gas tank after a major body repair.
I am sure they left it open while outside in the rain.
We finally cleaned it out using alcohol.   I don't remember what kind we used but I was told the alcohol would disperse the water off the bottom of the tank and help it burn as it traveled through your fuel system.
It worked for my car.   With a flashlight you should be able to see in your tank. Water is visible floating around like a bubble in the bottom of the tank.
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kylem428 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kylem428 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2018 at 9:05pm
Ran the boat for 40 minutes today. on 4 or 5 occasions during this time I had an engine stumble while on plane and the engine either died or almost died. I went to neutral, the rpm either stabilized or I restarted the engine. I was thinking in my head that my fuel pumps were probably going bad so I headed back to the dock. On a whim I went to town and picked up some contact cleaner, and the returned and disconnected the battery and ecm in order to clean the contacts. I Sprayed contact cleaner on the ecm pins and the harness connector, let them dry and then assembled. I also unbolted the ground connections from the bell housing and doused them in contact cleaner, and re-assembled. After that we ran the boat for about 1.2 hours. Right away the boat stumbled once and caught itself at 1krpm but after that it didn’t miss a beat, I’m back on to thinking the stumble/die issue has been due to a bout of bad gas or water in The gas that worked its way through the system.

I’ve been having similar low power/ stalling issues on a jet ski that I have which I filled up with a Jerry can that was in my garage for 2 weeks during the hot and humid part of summer. I think I put 12 gallons of this same gas in my boat at the time as well.

Hopefully tomorrow is another good day.

Kyle
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kylem428 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-24-2018 at 4:21pm
It’s the 300m tune
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Gary S View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-24-2018 at 4:08pm
What tune is the new ECM ? 290 or 300? Just curious
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kylem428 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-24-2018 at 4:04pm
In looking at the harness connector and the pins on the ecm- new and old, they looked good but maybe I should disassemble, spray contact cleaner on the harness plug making sure all the contacts get a dose, and re-assemble with dialectic grease to ensure solid contact. Any reason not to use the grease and just clean the contacts?

Kyle
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tryathlete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-24-2018 at 3:37pm
Kyle, I am curious if you made sure the multipin connector is in good shape. I think you saw a lot of corrosion in there. What’s your confidence that connector is doing it’s job?

The SS sure is going to be good for the long haul once you get this settled. I spent a lot of time chasing my ignition switch a few years back. It almost made no sense to replace it, but when I decided to do so, the issues went away.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kylem428 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-24-2018 at 3:30pm
New computer came in today and I installed it over lunch. Boat cranked and started right up, idling steady at 650 rpms. In neutral it also is operating smoothly through higher rpms. Boat idled for approx 20 min and everything seems okay. My only minor concern is that on 2 occasions, after idling for approx 10 min, the engine quit like you turned it off. No sputter or anything. Just stopped with no warning. On both occasions it fired right back up and idled fine, so not sure what this was about.

I will be water testing more this weekend so hopefully everything stays in order.

Kyle
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kylem428 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-22-2018 at 8:28pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kylem428 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-22-2018 at 8:07pm
Thinking I’ve found a smoking gun. When I disconnected the ecm today to check the spout circuit continuity with ground to see if there was a short, pin #1 came out with my harness ecm connector. This is the keep alive power feed which allows the computer to store fault codes in memory. Now there is no surprise as to why I wasn’t getting anything with my code reader. A little water came out of the connector boot when I undid it, and there is visible corrosion on the outside of the ecm box - indicative of the connector and associated contacts having been partially submerged. I would expect that this is not the only circuit to be faulty. When I open up the ecm, everything else looks okay on the circuit board; however, where you could plug in a chip there is a greasy whitish substance which I am assuming is there to prevent the circuits from shorting out. Once I get on a computer I’ll post a few pics.

Kyle
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-22-2018 at 10:56am
Originally posted by kylem428 kylem428 wrote:

Hey Ken, it is the black module CBE40 and crosses to the Napa TP29 module and the oem ford part number.

Kyle


That's a number and color I came up with too.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kylem428 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-22-2018 at 10:51am
Hey Ken, it is the black module CBE40 and crosses to the Napa TP29 module and the oem ford part number.

Kyle
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-22-2018 at 10:45am
Just a thought or maybe a question

You mentioned that you replaced the TFI module

What is the part number of the replacement and what color is the casing gray or black?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kylem428 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-22-2018 at 1:52am
Got my code reader tonight. No codes with the key on engine off test and no success with getting it to read for the key on engine running test. I had to jumper the single wire to ground for the koeo test so I expect maybe i need to clean the contact for the koer test since that wire needs to be connected to the reader. It’d be nice to know if maybe my oil pressure, knock sensor, or temp sensor are throwing a faulty signal causing the ecm to erratically adjust the timing and being the root cause of my issue but I guess so long as I replaced everything else I’ll find out as soon as I swap the ecm this weekend. Thanks to Erik for having one available and being willing to ship it expeditiously. Hopefully the end of this saga is near, though I have learned a bunch that I otherwise likely wouldn’t have taken the time for.

Kyle
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-21-2018 at 10:43pm
Good to know Mark.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lewy2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-21-2018 at 9:32pm
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

The D1L1 was thought it might work but not sure if anyone tried it since the C1A1 was so readily available


I can verify that the D1L1 works fine. I purchased 2 from an Ebay seller near you Gary (encortempw) they were US $35 each in Nov 2017. Purchased the chip and programmer from Moates. Not as much fun as my Megasquirt but I wanted something almost factory if I ever decide to sell the Sport.
If you're going through hell, keep going

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<a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kylem428 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-21-2018 at 8:33pm
My suspicion was confirmed this afternoon. Coming back from work I ran the boat for another 15 minutes on the boat lift without issue then randomly the erratic behavior came back. The engine quit, I removed the sprout plug and the boat ran fine. I believe the ECM is definitely sending a strange signal to the TFI causing the boat to run poorly. I’ve been studying the GT 40 manual, and I can’t think of a different explanation. That being said, I also bought a code reader off of Amazon so we will see if the ecm has thrown any codes once I receive it sometime today or tomorrow.

Kyle
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-21-2018 at 7:42pm
here are some-
1-C1A1

2-D1L1

The D1L1 was thought it might work but not sure if anyone tried it since the C1A1 was so readily available
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kylem428 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-21-2018 at 7:08pm
Yeh Gary I noticed that too while looking. I’ll have to look at the PN thread but if I recall the D1L1 ecm May also be a usable replacement. I’ll have to double check on that.

Thanks,

Kyle
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-21-2018 at 6:52pm
You have 3 options then if you think it's bad, 1- get yours fixed, 2 use a ecm and a chip like the PN guys figured out or 3- get a hold of Erik and see if he still has the one from the engine he's parting out.

PN ECM thread
Prices on used C1A1 Mustang ecm's have skyrocketed lately, someone must have seen that now there is a use for them,I paid under 90 for one a year ago.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kylem428 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-21-2018 at 6:28pm
So I got the boat to run today and had it running for about a half hour on my lift after replacing the distributor with a spectra fd14 from O’Reillys. The interesting thing is that I still expect that maybe I have a bad ecm. I set the initial timing of the new distributor by unplugging the sprout connector and timing it to 5 btdc. As soon as I did this, I turned off the engine, plugged in the sprout, and it would crank, fire once and die. I then disconnected the sprout, and ran the boat. It ran fine. As it was running, I reconnected the sprout and it would immediately die. Disconnect sprout, and it would run fine timed at 5btdc. After this, I disconnected the battery on a whim while I took a phone call. After my 30 min call, I reconnected the battery and started the boat without the sprout connector. After running for 5 minutes or so I reconnected the sprout connector and it stayed running! Not sure if the computer was reset by the disconnect and had to “re learn” something By running the boat without the sprout for a short period, or if this is a fluke thing that it is now only working for a little while, with my fear being that it will go back to doing as it had. Good to know that at least for now I can disconnect the sprout if it starts running poorly in order to limp my way home at 1000 rpm or less. The downside is I have no way of testing the sprout circuit of the ecm when engine is running poorly without a breakout box. I can only check continuity with ground for a short.

Think I need to find an ecm??

Kyle
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-19-2018 at 6:51pm
if you're gonna replace the PIP sensor , you might as well replace the stator too and if you're gonna replace both, you might as well get one of the rebuilt distributors mentioned earlier in the thread because the only way to do the stator or sensor is by pulling the distributor out, removing the gear and taking the shaft out from the top.

Pretty much complete disassembly and reassembly of the distributor.

And with the Spectra everything related to the sensors is new, clean and not rusty.And you get a new cap and rotor too. (edit took out my wrong Dorman reference)

You'll have to plug the vent in the cap or use the cap you have..

People usually use RTV for that it seems.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-19-2018 at 5:32pm
I have not taken one apart yet but in reading it looks like you do have to pull it to change that. Seems crazy. I did find this though- sensor troubles   Kind of sounds like your trouble with the erratic tach and all, interesting reading anyway
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kylem428 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-19-2018 at 5:05pm
Thanks Gary. I was under the impression that you had to disassemble the whole distributor to replace the pip sensor/ staror and most opt to replace the whole distributor instead from a cost and effort standpoint. Are you under a different understanding?

Kyle
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-19-2018 at 3:46pm




Here are some Ford part numbers which might be some help,you can click on the image to make it larger
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-19-2018 at 3:01pm
Why in the world would you change the whole distributor unless the distributor has to come out to change that module ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tryathlete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-19-2018 at 2:03pm
Kyle, a new distributor is pretty cheap, and it sounds like there’s something going on there, and if it were me, I’d do it just to get my boat back up and running. I don’t think you have to worry about timing if you get it close enough (mark position of old distributor and especially rotor). ECM controls timing on the GT40. Others may argue against swapping parts for good reason, but that’s what I would do.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kylem428 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-19-2018 at 1:15pm
Okay new theory - bad distributor. The reason I think this- coil is making a tic tic buzzing noise when the key is on and engine is off. I have a constant 12.5v at the purple wire but the green feed wire voltage coming from the TFI is erratic. The TFI is also new. My understanding is the PIP sensor feeds cam position info to the computer to inform timing. I believe while the pip looks good (not moving) it is providing a faulty signal or shorting out. If I test the blue gray signal wire from the distributor for continuity to ground, there is measurable resistance indicating a partially connected circuit. This is then informing the computer to fire the coil at erratic times causing the rough running condition when I can get it to run.

Is there an easier way to test this without a breakout box connected to the ECM or do I need to jump in and replace the distributor? Oreilley has a remanufactured cardone that fits a 92 f250 5.8mpfi which is what I’ve been using as a cross ref. Vehicle for parts. It’s less than $100 but then I introduce error in having to reset the timing.

Kyle

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-18-2018 at 6:24pm
I hate it when Carnac gets it wrong

Have you checked the ground connection from the ECM to be clean and tight?

Also maybe unplug and check the cleanliness of the connections in the big connector to the ECM.

I figure they're both easy and cost nothing.
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