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No prop puller necessary here.

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tleed View Drop Down
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    Posted: August-28-2006 at 4:09pm
Whanged my prop on a hungry rock yesterday. Oh drat! Now I have to go buy an ACME 540.

My old prop is very loose on the shaft and actually wobbles slightly, so no puller necessary there. I'm sure I'll notice a difference with the new ACME just because it's new, but I'm also wondering if that looseness was the source of some vibration?

And I'm wondering if I'll have to replace the key. Do they wear, or is all my wear in the prop bore? And are those prop keys easy to obtain? Or make? Out of...?

And what is this waterproof grease thing? Just a high-quality wheel-bearing grease, or some kind of special marine something-or-other that costs a fortune and is only available in marine stores at least 4 hours away from me?

Thomas
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote The Dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-28-2006 at 7:22pm
If your prop was actually wobbling it makes sense that it was the cause of some vibration. One would expect the bra$$ to wear before the ssteel, but who knows. Key's are not hard to find. Here's one from skidim.

marine grease...it's not hard to find or super expensive. Find it any place you buy marine parts. I've even seen it at walmart. good luck.
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862001 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 862001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-29-2006 at 2:36pm
You mention waterproof grease,I hope your not planning on greasing the shaft when you install your new prop.
There is a certain procedure for mounting a prop on an inboard.
I apologize if you already know this, I am just trying to help.
If you need furtur info just ask.
John,Fremont,NH
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tleed View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tleed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-29-2006 at 5:35pm
862001: Consider me ignorant and please insult my intelligence. I've never replaced a prop before and know nothing about it.

Hopefully my prop will arrive Wednesday and be on the boat by that night.

Thomas
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stang72 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stang72 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-29-2006 at 11:24pm
You don't want any play or wobble ...the prop should be snugged pretty tight(don't over kill it). most of the time there is a line around the shaft made buy where the old one was...that will give you an idea close to where the new one will seat(the new prop may not go quite that far because the tolerance is tighter).The placement of the key can effect how far up it will go...I play with the key to try and move it as close to that line as I can and tighten it up snug and turn to the next spot where I can get the cotter pin in.
I place a piece of wood between one of the blades and the hull to turn the nut to a snug fit.
stang



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862001 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 862001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-30-2006 at 9:54am
tleed;
this is the way I was told to install a prop.
I would recommend buying or borrowing a prop puller.

1st. Make sure you start with a clean shaft (emery cloth works well).

2nd. step is to take new prop and slide it on the shaft as as hard as you can by hand, (no keyway).
After prop is on shaft take a sharpie pen and trace a line onto shaft opposite the treads.

3rd. Now remove prop and install keyway.
reinstall prop and make sure it is seated all the way on the shaft. As long as your prop is lined up with the mark you made you are all set to go.

4th. Use a new nylock nut, the oem castle nut and pins like to fall out/off.

5th enjoy your new found pulling power.
John,Fremont,NH
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-30-2006 at 10:59am
Originally posted by 862001 862001 wrote:

2nd. step is to take new prop and slide it on the shaft as as hard as you can by hand, (no keyway).
After prop is on shaft take a sharpie pen and trace a line onto shaft opposite the treads.



no need to use any force just slide it on until it stops then mark it, the prop should cover part of the mark once tightened. use the fat sharpies and not the fine line sharpies.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mercrewser Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-30-2006 at 4:51pm
Why shouldnt you grease the shaft? I used an antiseize compound on mine. Should I redo it?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 862001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-30-2006 at 5:10pm
Grease will cause all torque from propellor/ engine onto the keyway and not the shaft. It can also leed to vibration and shaft breakage.
If it was my boat I would re do it before running it again.
John,Fremont,NH
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-30-2006 at 5:12pm
doessn't hurt I guess but some types of grease could react with the prop material and SS shaft making it worse.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tleed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-30-2006 at 11:44pm
Received my new ACME 540 today. Thanks UPS!

Castle nut? What castle nut?

Mine was mounted with a single large nut, a lock washer, and a cotter pin. There was lots of play where the prop could run back and forth because the nut didn't come close to holding the prop against the taper.

I couldn't find a large enough castle nut at Lowe's, so I got a nylon lock nut, a couple of extra lock washers, and a new cotter pin. That baby won't be coming off.

Additionally, the 540 has a much longer bore area, so it covers all the way down to the threads.

Thomas
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stang72 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-31-2006 at 1:05am
The castle nut that you should have ordered with the prop! You can get a nylon type or one to use with the cotter pin...in bra$$. No need for lock washers.
stang



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tleed View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tleed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-31-2006 at 8:56am
Guess I've collected another P.O. story. My prop just had a regular nut with one lock washer. So I didn't know I was supposed to have a castle nut. No wonder I had all the slack. The nut did not hold the prop tight. I picked up a steel nylon lock nut at Lowe's last night. Is that sufficient? I'd be concerned it would walk off. But I suppose I can still put the cotter pin in, too.

Thomas
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 862001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-31-2006 at 9:05am

A castle nut was original equipment. It got its name because the cut outs/notching on the end were you place the cotter pin looks similair to the top of a castle.
A stainless steel nylon lock nut is the best way to go. I have an OJ 4 blade and I can not use a cotter pin either. It have had my prop for 5 years and it has never loosened up on me.
John,Fremont,NH
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote The Lake Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-31-2006 at 9:38am
So John,
What you're saying is you don't "Welcome back Cotter."
Sorry

I've got a nylon nut on mine now, I like it better; it's easier to get the prop where it should be on the taper.

Chuck
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote The Dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-31-2006 at 11:42am
Chuck, good one.

I like how 79 even gives instructions on what size sharpie to use. Nobody gets slip shod advice here!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-01-2006 at 12:02am
don't dis-mis the cotter pin.. depending where the hole is in the shaft and who made it some are farther back and used two nuts and a cotter pin as a saftey feature incase the jam nuts cam loose.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tleed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-03-2006 at 12:58pm
All I can say is: WOW!

The new ACME 540 is so quiet, powerful, smooth. My boat is scary now! It just digs on takeoff and the flies. Still no speedometer, but I'm estimating I gained 5-8 mph over my previous prop. In fact, my niece yesterday was telling me NOT to give it full power on takeoff when getting up on one ski.

I had no idea my previous prop was so bad. If you read above, you'll note some installation issues with the previous prop, which I'm now sure contributed to the horrific vibration. I just thought that was the way the boat was. And, to be clear, I'm talking about BEFORE I hit the rock. There was no visible damage before that, but the prop sure vibrated and made a ton of noise.

Not so the ACME 540. And the 540 is substantially bigger, but fits just fine. I can't believe how much of a difference it makes. And this is behind a freshly-rebuilt Chrysler 318 with some significant hp mods. I'm sure I'm making upwards of 250 hp when stock was 225. The prop really takes advantage of it.

BTW, I ordered it from Delta Propeller (Ohio) Monday and had it UPS in Virginia Wednesday evening. A job well done deserves some credit.

I did notice one strange thing now. At the top end, the boat did some slight porpoising sometimes. Is that a sign that I'm at the limits of the hull design?

Thomas
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote The Dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-03-2006 at 5:32pm
Thomas, I'm glad you are so happy with your new prop. From the sounds of it, your old one might not have been right size and almost certainly wasn't on tight. That could make for some serious vibration. I'll bet this new one is like night and day.

Take it easy on that throttle now...you shouldn't need much of it to pull up most skiers... That's another thing to brag about to your i/o buddies.
Porpoising usually is a sign of the trim being up too high. I've never heard of it with an inboard, but perhaps some others here have.

Again, congrats on your new find!
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tleed View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tleed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-03-2006 at 9:22pm
Just got back from the lake today. Pulled my niece & brother skiing again, then tossed them out and went drag racing.

This thing really flies! And the sound turns heads. With no weight I felt like I was doing another 3-5 mph. I tried to find a jet ski to pace me, but couldn't find one with a speedo.

With no weight there was no porpoising. Hmmm. Maybe it was small waves starting it yesterday.

Thomas

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rmcdonald Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-04-2006 at 12:22am
Hi Thomas
My 68 starts porpoising at around 37 to 42 MPH if I have people sitting in the back seats.

If I have people sitting up front with me, it does not do it.

I noticed on a picture in the diaries section that someone has installed some sneaky cavitation plates or stabilizer plates under there boarding platform.

Stabilizer Plate

When I build my boarding platform, I am going to add some.

Regards
Rob








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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fisherman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-15-2006 at 8:37pm
I believe the porpoising to be due to weight distribution. If I am in my boat by myself I can put hte hammer down and run full speed anywhere on teh lake although waves and even ripples take advantage of you.
If I add a body inthe rear I can only make about 34 MPH before I start to porpoise and at 37 it is dangerous.
Initially when I got the boat this year it would porpoise with only me in it. I attribute this change to keeping the boat dry for the most part this year. I think I have some water in the foam and may have lost some of it over the course of the year.
In any event, congrats on your new found speedster...
Central Oregon
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It doesn't need to run bad or look bad just because it's old!
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