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Aluminum Intake Manifold & Electrolysis

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Jonny Quest View Drop Down
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    Posted: September-04-2018 at 5:03pm
Gents:

I'm looking at installing the Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifold on my 1994 Pro Boss High Output engine. The manifold is made of aluminum, and per Edelbrock: "if you use this in a marine environment, you have the possibility of having electrolysis in your cooling system, which can shorten the life of the intake manifold. Even if you use this in fresh water, you sill have a chance of getting electrolysis."

How many of you run aluminum manifolds on your engines? Any issues so far with electrolysis?

I'm looking at manifold # 2181. Any suggestions or recommendations? Would you consider the RPM version (#7581) or the 2181?

Thanks,

JQ
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-04-2018 at 5:24pm
Nah. Rpm if you have the room (height).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-04-2018 at 5:56pm
Tim:

Would you delete the spacer between manifold and carb to reduce the height? The QuickFuel unit I'm running has a rear vacuum port that I can use for the PCV.

Hopefully, that will give me enough room for the new manifold. I'm going to run the "squish test" by taking a small ball of modeling clay and placing it on top of the flame arrestor and then closing the engine cover. The will let me know how much space I have to work with.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-04-2018 at 6:09pm
I’d reduce the arrestor height first, but yes. That spacer is good for performance also.

I fit a stealth+spacer under that box with a 2” arrestor.... but it was tight. Eddy rpm should be similar.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-04-2018 at 7:27pm
Do they actually use the word "electrolysis" in their publication? Petes head is gonna explode.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-04-2018 at 8:16pm
You can buy a sacrificial anode to install in the block, I think they are made out of magnesium.   The electrolysis will attack that first and save your aluminum.
It is a wear part so you would need to check it every year to see if it had dissolved yet.
You would need to find a home for it also. In cars they drop them in the radiator with a wire that suspends it in the coolant.
When long life antifreeze came out this was a big issue.   People thought long life meant forever I guess.   As it aged it ate many aluminum parts.
I would throw a sacrificial anode in and not worry at all.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-04-2018 at 8:45pm
They also make a marine rated unit with brass inserts in the water jackets. It may help in sweet water but useless in salt for belaying GALVANIC CORROSION. Pretty sure there are old aluminum exhaust manifolds out there running for generations in lake water.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gt40KS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-04-2018 at 11:50pm
Well JQ, if this is a legitimate and immediate concern I'd say I'm in trouble too.



Having said that, I swapped the intake on my first boat to an aluminum Edelbrock and ran it for another 3+ years with no issues and 200 or so hours before I traded the boat.
But then Mark's suggestion of a sacrificial anode certainly wouldn't hurt ... Think I'll do that myself, now that it's come up
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Jonny Quest View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-05-2018 at 12:42am
Well, the clay "squish ball test" shows that I have 2 1/4" to 2 1/2" clearance between the top of the current flame supressor and the dog-house engine cover.

I believe that I'll have room for the Performer and maybe even the RPM. If the RPM was a bit too high, would ditching the spacer be a good trade-off for using the Performer RPM vs. standard Performer?

JQ
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-05-2018 at 11:15pm
JQ

I recently removed an engine from an Edelbrock aluminum intake that was 22 years old.

You could say that the engine was removed from the manifold because the manifold was the best part of the engine and the engine was pretty much wasted.

Put another engine under the same manifold which was in great shape still.

It had a light layer of some brownish residue on the water passages. It was rust and scale from the cast iron block and heads.

This was a raw water cooled engine. always run in fresh water

I think if you paint it bright red it will completely stop any corrosion
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MourningWood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-06-2018 at 1:28am
I'm just finishing up my '81 SN, which I bought with a very rough engine.
I rebuilt it, and am using not only an Edelbrock Performer manifold, but also Edelbrock (aluminum) cylinder heads, an aluminum timing cover and water pump housing, and aluminum exhaust manifolds.
I do not foresee any galvanic corrosion issues running in fresh water and draining after use.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-06-2018 at 4:07am
Mourning Wood that sounds like a nice power plant. Are you going to the roller cam at the same time?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MourningWood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-06-2018 at 1:50pm
Thanks, it sounds very crisp.
No, I didn't go roller, I reused the original RH cam, with a good polishing, and new stock lifters. Haven't run the boat (soon), stay tuned....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-07-2018 at 12:33pm
Well, that settles it. I'm leading toward the RPM version of the Performer series. I'm fairly certain that it will fit if I remove the carb spacer. I"ll just have to play around with it when it arrives.

KENO: the thought DID cross my mind about painting it red...but then in a fit of sanity, I decided to stay with the natural aluminum finish.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dreaming Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-19-2018 at 9:51pm
I have the performer RPM on my 94 with the spacer... the flame arrestor bolt squishes into the insulation on the top of the dog house, but it rides fine.   YMMV with your alignment and engine height though.   Make sure you don't forget the "plate" between the intake and the spacer if you do decide to keep the spacer. (intake, gasket, plate, gasket, spacer, gasket, carb)    I had a gasket failure this summer as I was not running the plate under the spacer. I was glad it was at the end of the day, but still a bummer to drag home a broken boat.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-20-2018 at 3:48pm
Good feedback. I've ordered the RPM from Summit but I'll get the plate from Jeggs.   I will just have to experiment with and without the spacer for overall height and engine cover fitment.   There will be good quality gaskets between all mating surfaces: manifold / plate / spacer / carb.

JQ
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-21-2018 at 3:02pm
I just finished with the install of the Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold. To address the potential electrolysis issue, I installed a pencil zinc anode on a brass cap. You can see the brass cap on the last photo.







Cheers,

JQ
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-21-2018 at 3:16pm
Originally posted by Jonny Quest Jonny Quest wrote:

, I installed a pencil zinc anode on a brass cap.

Cheers,

JQ

JQ,
I think they call that a plug rather than a "cap". I know because of all the high tech training I got at the HD just to work in the plumbing dept.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gt40KS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-21-2018 at 3:16pm
Looks great! Hoping you see some noticeable performance differences
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-21-2018 at 7:06pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by Jonny Quest Jonny Quest wrote:

, I installed a pencil zinc anode on a brass cap.

Cheers,

JQ

JQ,
I think they call that a plug rather than a "cap". I know because of all the high tech training I got at the HD just to work in the plumbing dept.


Quote from Jamestown Distributors:

"Camp Pencil Zinc Anodes with Brass Cap"

Then to make us all crazy, in the description they use the term "plug". Go figure...

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mille1sj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-14-2019 at 10:36am
Has anyone tried one of these to help combat electrolysis?


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