1994 Hydrodyne stringer job

I tried to find Andy's (Okie Boarder's) original thread on how he had to split his Supra to do his stringer job but couldnt find it. I did find this reference to it though that has a couple pictures. Not sure how different the Supra with inside walls throughout is different than your open bow, but if he could get this split, I'm sure you can get yours. Good luck with it. Keep us posted.



Andy's split

Not sure how Hydrodyne construction is but the rubrail looks similar to American Skier. Under rubrail elastomer is about 100 screws holding the rubrail to the deck as well as the deck to the hull.
Follow Gottaski recommendation if Hydrodyne used rivets as he states instead of screws.

Once all rivets or screws are out the deck is probably a shoebox fit over the edge of the hull. May need to run a utility knife under the seam if there is a sealant used to seal it. Once that's done the deck just lifts off pretty easy. Just make sure to disconnect all wiring, steering cables, throttle/shift cables, gas tank, vent hose, speakers, etc. before you can remove the deck. You should be able to set it on a few sawhorses. I had mine sitting that way in my garage for months without an issue.

Removing the deck is definitely the right way to do it in my opinion. Thats how I did mine. Remove one stringer at a time and replace it before moving to the next one. The hull will be pretty flimsy after you remove the deck. If you remove all stringers you definitely have to do some bracing beforehand.

Throughbolting the cradle is how American Skier does it too. Its much better than lag bolting IMHO. Do it the same way.

Thanks guys! hopefully they are screws!

does anyone know anything about the baltek? are the stringers baltek? or just the hull?

So after a few very busy months I am tearing into it. I have the engine ready to be pulled today or tomorrow with a come-along hung from a tree, then the gas tank and the top deck. looks like it will be pretty straight forward if i remember to disassemble the lift ring and bow eye assembly.

My question is what measurements exactly, should I be taking before I pull the engine cradle? distance from transom?

Wow. Glad no one got hurt. Pull the oil pan. I'd replace the oil pump since you'll already have it open and the landing impact may have cracked the oil pump pickup. I'd also just replace the oil pan - they're not too expensive and you don't want it leaking if it's knocked out of square.

Sorry to hear of the mishap.

Was it a Harbor freight come-along? I have one of those, maybe I should replace it before i get hurt.

i also dont see any oil pumps on skidim?
would it just be a standard 351 oil pump?
and i would probably want standard volume?

camron18 wrote: i also dont see any oil pumps on skidim? would it just be a standard 351 oil pump? and i would probably want standard volume?

camron18 wrote: Its a PCM 351 pro boss the prices for a new oil pan on skidim seem steep? is there a better place to find a new one? No it was not harbor freight.

Depending on how much clearance you have under the engine you might be able to use a pan from a Ford truck .

i think your engine is mounted at an angle with a PCM 1 to 1 ratio transmission and you'd probably have clearance.

Only one way to find out   

A standard 351 oil pump is just fine especially since a high volume pump won't allow a standard PCM pan to bolt to the block because of the extra depth of the pump housing. as compared to the standard pump. That's a Melling high volume pump that won't fit maybe some other brand would but it's not needed.

The standard truck pan would have the same problem with the oil pump depth.   

Jody at Florida Inboards in Panama City will likely have a used oil pan. He got hit hard in the summer hurricanes. It first looked as if he was going to be out of business, but now it seems he has moved to a new location. His last place was leveled. Look him up on facebook.

camron18 wrote: what measurements should i be taking before pulling the engine cradle?

Cameron,
The mounting height of the cradle and the fore to aft placement are the critical dimensions. The best reference point for the fore to aft is the log.

When lifting things, its important to do it safely and with the proper equipment....or whatever.....

Wisconsin Lawn Art.

this weekend i split the boat in two... pretty crazy. it was about ten degrees out and snowing like crazy as i worked outside for about 4 hours. but i got both halves in the garage at the end of the day.

After moving the gas tank i relized just how bad the stringers are and i am glad i decided to do them now instead of waiting another year.

should there be any fear of the top half deforming over the next few months or will it fit right back on the way it came off?

is there any benifit to trying to level the boat on the trailer or is it just as easy to run a string across?

Next step is to start tearing into the floor and stringers. curcluar saw with the blade depth as shallow as possible? leave an inch or so of floor around the edges?

Somebody with the knowledge help the guy out! Tomorrow is not very far away. I wish I could but have no experience in this department.   

got the floor cut up last weekend. this pic shows just how bad the stringers are... hydrodyne made it easy with no foam under the floor!!