Electrical failure

yea timmy spends too much time on the computer and there's not much time for anything else like women.

I post alot while at work see ya got to get back to my women in the other room looser.

Poster112 wrote: Holy crap! LOL I'm holding you both responsible for me spraying coffee all over my laptop from laughing! I haven't had time to run around in circles, yet trying to fix it. I'll get to it this weekend. Until then, I'll keep reading.

    Hope your computer still works!!!

                                    Jeff...

Hi Chris
I would take a voltmeter or a multimeter out with you each time until you find the problem.

If it happens again. Check the voltage across the battery as a reference and then check the voltage at the feed coming into the back of the ignition key switch.

If you have no volts or big voltage drop, then disconnect the positive wire from the coil.

Turn your key to the ignition position to see if all you instrument cluster comes alive or operate you blower. This will prove if your coil is the problem as you are taking it out of the circuit.

Question:
Does positive wire for your blower switch come from the main feed point on ignition key switch key or does it go via the ignition point on the switch.

Meaning does the blower work with out ignition being turned on.

If the blower works only with the key turned on then it could also be a faulty ignition switch, unlikely but possible as it becomes the single point of failure on the circuit.

Hope this helps

Regards
Rob

Willie your just a plain old stupid jack a$$

Rob I don't have the problem just pointing out if the coil windings go bad then you can have an open ground killing all power to everything and it can be intermediate.

so Jeff if there is an open ground there is no current to flow or get a resitor hot because there isn't a path for it to flow through. A coil cannot short it is impossible for a continuus wire to short, the wire breaks creating and open curcuit or it would be the same thing as cutting a wire in two. An Ignition coil is made of two coils of wire that do not interact with each other and are seperate, their called a primary winding, heavy gauge wire 12-16 gauge with a couple hundred turns and a secondary winding made from about 36-42 gauge wire and several thousand turns. The primary and secondary winds cannot come into contact with each other by design.

The ground for the ignintion switch to energize the solenoid comes from the coil's ground through the tach so if the ign switch doesn't have a ground nothing does.


Same old sh*t with you so called electrical experts do this do that check that check this, ignore what the guy has already told you, he's check all of the connections, he's cleaned the connections, he's wiggled all of the connections, he's check the connections with a voltmeter, the problem fixed it's self and he's worried it's going to happen again because he found nothing wrong anywhere, SO what do you two clowns suggest??? doing the same sh*t he already has done great help really helps the guy out alot. NOT

What have I suggested a possible cause to his intermediate problem and where else his problem could be. Hell you can go back and check other posting regarding electrical issue's and 99% you two clowns give the same bullsh*t it's like you cut and paste the crap. Offer the guy some real help once in a while.

79, Who are the two guys you refer to?

Boat Dr, what is the year and model of the CC in your pic and why is there a TV remote on your dash? You guys are getting way too high tech.

As far as the boat dying all together I think the kid accidently switched it off or it is a soon to die ignition switch.

You guys and your cla$$room arguments are just too much. I think I am going to once again, try to work up the courage to mount my speedometer. I'll take a before and after pic. (Sorry for the hijack but not so sorry I don't do it.)

Poster, my best advise is to study up on how to hot wire that baby, carry extra wire, wire cutters and strippers, extra coils, extra points, extra everything. Carrying these items along will almost surely cure the problem. The only thing is as soon as you gain confidence and remove those items from your boat the problem will immediatly reoccure.

It's always hard to solve an electrical problem from a remote location. First you have to presume the boat owner has some level of skill and this presumption may be false. You could tell someone to hook a wire to their coil and they run it to their fuel pump. Then they blame you when their garage burns down. You never know. I've told this story before: I once, as a favor, changed a tail light bulb in a car and the engine developed a serious miss. The owner wanted me to fix the engine because "it was running fine before I messed with it". This is a true story.

Jim I bet you've never helped that guy out again after you changed the bulb. I've seen that happen a coulpe of times at my dad's shop people wait to the last moment before fixing a problem then when it breaks down in the drive of the shop while diagnoising it it the shops fault. Seen it happen more than I cared too sometimes you just go ahead and fix it other times you just tell them to stick it where the sun don't shine.

boat dr,
I had bought a pair of manifolds on Ebay but when they arrived I saw they had an extra hose fitting that is not used on my engines so I relisted them and sold them. They looked good but after seeing them I repacked and sold. I got an email from the fellow I sold them to saying they were rotten inside and caused his engine to fill up with water. I told him to return them to me and I would refund his money but I never heard from him again. So, I feel bad but it's good you didn't buy them from me.

Chris, I wasn't calling you a kid - I thought maybe you had a kid on board and besides I meant it tongue-in-cheek.

There is an old saying among electrical techs: if you want to find an intermittent electrical power problem put a meter on the machine. The problem will never occur while you are watching so therefore the meter fixes the problem. That is what I was illuding to by carrying all of the spare parts. It is a serius problem and I do feel you pain. These intermittent problems are difficult to chase down even for the most experienced techs.

Hang in there, we'll get it fixed sooner or later.

I think it could still be a faulty switch even though your blower worked, anyone? I think the switch as multiple contacts in it some of which might fail. Although this is pure speculation - I've never seen it happen. I wanted to just throw another thought out on the table.

Oh hell, Chris ain't seen nothin yet. Wait until Jeff and I get into it. Hey Jeff, I'm keeping an eye on you. Keep your code book and Ohms Law handy!!!

    JIH, you know we have a good time with no hate. To me, thats how things get figured out. Its all fun, and 79 sometimes seems to take things too personally. I would never say I know as much about engines as him, as it wouldnt be true.
    I dont like the idea of guesswork. Spending $$$ replacing things that are OK. Plus, you learn from civil controversy. Thanks to JIH, Im sure he and I both learned something more in the code book, as well as a fun challenge, but he is still cool.
    Sure you can guess, but cla$$room posts are NOT a bad thing. What this cla$$room needs is some disipline. Someone might learn something, and be able to have a clue if it happens again.
    JIH, maybe we should go at it again and show them how its done!!!

                                   Jeff....

J_I_H, I think you should. That would make your posts even funnier.