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1968 Barracuda Rebuild

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    Posted: October-07-2018 at 10:45pm
Time has come for me to start a rebuild on my 68 Barracuda. This will be a project that will probably take me a few years to complete as I don't have the time to devote to it to complete it over one winter. I got the interior pulled out, the gas tank pulled out and I removed all of the hardware on the deck behind the windshield. The next step for me will be to remove the carpet.





I have a few questions before I move forward.
1. Should I pull the floor up before I remove the engine or after I remove the engine. Is there an advantage to measuring the engine mount locations with the floor removed or can I remove the engine before I remove the floor. The floor I am referring to is the wood floor on top of the fiberglassed over foam.

2. In the following picture you can see that the port seat back support had been cut and had a metal plate on each side holding it together. I imagine this was not factory, but I needed to unbolt the plates and remove the support in order to get the fuel tank out. Should the tank have been able to come out without having to remove the support?





3. Once the gas tank was out, I saw that the bottom had some rust. I want to reuse the original tank. Do you think sanding the surface rust off the bottom of the tank and applying primer and paint would be a sufficient repair to reuse the tank?









4. Now that the tank is out, what is the best way to store the tank? Leave the fill cap off and the vent open so air can circulate? Seal it up? I just want to make sure the inside of the tank doesn't start rusting as it is in good shape.

5. The engine is going to sit out of the boat for couple of years while I am working on this project. What is the best way to store the engine? I am going to remove the trans as it needs to be rebuilt since the prop will spin in neutral. Should I store the engine on an engine stand? I am assuming I should leave the oil in to help lubricate it and also turn it over by hand every month or so.

I will be asking plenty of questions and seeking out advice. This site has been a great resource and I value the knowledge of the people who have undertaken rebuilds and the knowledge that they have gained. Many thanks in advance!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-08-2018 at 12:39am
That fuel tank is not worth saving, IMO. The seam is compromised. It is dangerous to try & weld on a gas tank. A replacement would be warranted.

Put a squirt oil oil in each cyl of engine & turn it over a few times, As long as it is stored inside, it will be fine. It doesn't matter if it is stored on a stand or a pc of plywood.

Good luck on your project!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-08-2018 at 7:48am
I too would be worried about the tank. What does the inside look like? A closer inspection is needed. How close to the welded seam is the notch?

The metal plates on the tank brace are not original.

Pull the engine/trans before you do anything else. You'll appreciate the extra room.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-08-2018 at 8:08am
It's kinda hard to judge the condition of a tank from some pictures (at least for me it is).

If you're wanting to keep it for "originality" reasons I'd go visit a shop that repairs gas tanks and have them give you a second opinion

And............if any welding is needed, let them do it
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-08-2018 at 8:52am
Andrew,
Those tanks were made with terne plate back then so there's a good chance the inside will be in great shape. Yes, get a second opinion.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FamilyManCCF Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-09-2018 at 1:42am
Thanks Everyone. The inside of the gas tank is in great shape. The rusted notch is up against the weld but it has not compromised the weld. I will try and find a shop that can see if they can make a repair.

When I reinstall the rear seat supports I will make it a solid piece and then just slide the tank back in.

Also, should I just store the gas tank as is, with the fill and vent open to let air circulate? Do I run the risk of having the inside of the tank corrode or rust?

I will measure the engine and trans mount locations and then pull the motor. I agree, having the extra space to work will be a bonus.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-09-2018 at 1:58am
If your that concerned on the tank pour some oil in it and keep turning it every day for a week to cover everything inside. Old premix bikes rarely have rusted out tanks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-09-2018 at 6:50am
Originally posted by FamilyManCCF FamilyManCCF wrote:

Also, should I just store the gas tank as is, with the fill and vent open to let air circulate? Do I run the risk of having the inside of the tank corrode or rust? .

I don't fell there's a problem.
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Andrew,
Those tanks were made with terne plate back.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FamilyManCCF Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-18-2019 at 2:05pm
Ok, so it has been quite a while since I was able to do anything on the boat. I have a new position at work which will hopefully allow me more time to work on it.

I removed the carpet.




It is difficult to see but I put screw drives in to indicate where the floor had separated from the hull. The port side is from the gas tank to where the exhaust enters the floor.


The starboard side separated from the gas tank to the dash. Basically the entire side.


Next I removed the pylon. Some years ago, the pylon started to wiggle in the floor a little. A pipe flange as placed around the pylon to try and tighten it up. Grandfather and his brothers owned a plumbing business so they used a lot of DIY solutions over the years to keep the boat on the water.


I removed the stainless steel bolt holding the pylon in the cup and the pylon slid right out. I consider myself fortunate as I have read the struggles of many trying to remove the pylon from the cup.


The end of the pylon seems to be in relatively good shape. Again, fortunate as some I have seen have been very corroded.






I removed the plywood floor.




In the mid 90s our lake instituted a noise ordinance. The boat didn’t meet the requirement so mufflers had to be installed. Again, my family did what they thought would work. They did not have the knowledge of this site at that time to research the proper way. They removed the ply floor, cut the fiberglass off where the exhaust ran, removed the foam, installed the mufflers, refoamed (not sure with what), then nailed the fiberglass back to the stringers, and installed a new ply floor. Here I am removing the fiberglass that was nailed back down.




I then moved forward with trying to remove some of the foam from around the starboard muffler to see what I could find.


No surprise the foam was very wet.


It is hard to see but the shine on the hull between the muffler and the secondary is water.


This dark spot is where water was pooled up under the foam.


After the boat was sitting for awhile the foam removed, I noticed a lot of standing water where I had removed the foam. I imagine that the water between the foam and hull further up in the boat may have run backwards now that the foam by the muffler had been removed.


I will keep removing foam as time allows until I have the opportunity and means to pull the engine and trans.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-18-2019 at 2:23pm
Andrew,
keep digging on that foam. I feel there are more surprises waiting for you.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FamilyManCCF Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-18-2019 at 2:28pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Andrew,
keep digging on that foam. I feel there are more surprises waiting for you.


Pete, I agree. I am expecting the boat to be full of water. I just hope the "surprises" aren't too bad.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67 ski nat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-19-2019 at 11:23am
Keep pictures coming all winter, give us something to keep me busy. Can’t get any worse than stringer job. Is that your plan or just new foam.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FamilyManCCF Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-19-2019 at 11:50pm
Daryn, I plan on doing a full Douglas Fir stinger job. I have read a lot about the foam/no foam debate. My boat will be used on small lakes and rivers. It will primarily be a trailer queen and after I saw the amount of water that the foam is holding in my boat, I will not be re-foaming.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67 ski nat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-20-2019 at 11:31am
Sounds good. I’m interested in watching your progress and success. I’m have same plan next winter. Thanks daryn
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FamilyManCCF Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2022 at 12:29pm
Hey Everyone! 

It has been a long time since I have posted. I have been working on the boat, but progress has been slow. 

I was able to get the engine removed.






Here is what was left of the hardware after it was removed.
















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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FamilyManCCF Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2022 at 12:45pm

Then it was on to getting all the foam removed. The method that worked best for me was a drywall saw and crow bar. I was able to removed the smaller pieces of foam with a flat head screw driver.


The exhaust and foam removed. The lake that my family had a cabin on had a decibel level restriction, so we had to put mufflers in the boat in the 90s. The mufflers will not be going back in.


I then proceeded to remove the rest of the fiberglass floor with a grinder with a cut off wheel. From there, it was on to more foam removal.





The next steps will be:

Degrease the transom area and any other areas

Remove remaining hardware

Remove all stringer cross members and fiberglass wrapped around the stringers

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Morfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-11-2022 at 8:38am
Great job so far Andrew! Keep it up, thanks for posting pics and kudos to restoring the old gal. Labor of love but the compliments and looks you get once it's all done is worth the effort. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-11-2022 at 2:20pm
The one thing that I did when I did my '85 was, I only removed one side of the stringers at a time. That way I was able to mirror the existing stringers for height and placement and didn't have to rely on notes/drawings/pictures to hope I got it right. 
I also changed some areas to make it better/stronger but still had the original to reference while making changes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-12-2022 at 4:50pm
Looks pretty good without the foam.  Is there much rot?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FamilyManCCF Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-19-2022 at 3:07pm
Originally posted by gun-driver gun-driver wrote:

The one thing that I did when I did my '85 was, I only removed one side of the stringers at a time. That way I was able to mirror the existing stringers for height and placement and didn't have to rely on notes/drawings/pictures to hope I got it right. 
I also changed some areas to make it better/stronger but still had the original to reference while making changes.
Paul

That is a good idea and that was also my plan. I know I won't be able to do all the grinding at one time this way, but I would rather have the points of reference on my first go around.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FamilyManCCF Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-19-2022 at 3:09pm
Originally posted by Riley Riley wrote:

Looks pretty good without the foam.  Is there much rot?

Bruce

There were large parts of the stringers that were not covered by fiberglass from the factory. The foam in front of the pylon had so much water in it, that it was frozen when I was trying to dig it out this winter. The wood seems solid, but I know there is rot and since I am in here already, my plan is to replace all the stringers.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FamilyManCCF Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-27-2022 at 2:27pm
Hey Everyone. I want to purchase the new stringer material for the boat. I am going to go with Douglas Fir. Does anyone know the specific type of Douglas Fir (official name) I should ask for when talking with a lumber yard? I see that some of the home improvement stores advertise that they have Douglas Fir but I have a feeling it is not the same quality I should be looking for as the prices seem too low. Also, does anyone have a lumberyard they would recommend in Northern IL or Southern WI?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-27-2022 at 3:47pm
Douglas Fir aka Doug-Fir.  Basically all the same.  However, “clear” is what you want — if you can find it,  Clear means no knots.  More expensive, but stronger in a stringer project.  

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FamilyManCCF Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-28-2022 at 8:31am
Originally posted by Jonny Quest Jonny Quest wrote:

Douglas Fir aka Doug-Fir.  Basically all the same.  However, “clear” is what you want — if you can find it,  Clear means no knots.  More expensive, but stronger in a stringer project.  

JQ

Thanks Rob. I will make sure to look for Douglas Fir Clear.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote marksa1458 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-28-2022 at 9:42am
Best to find a specialty lumber store.  You will not find the wood you need at Lowes/Home Depot.  I am in the Boston Area and have used a company called Boulter Plywood.  https://www.boulterplywood.com/  

you can check out their website for an idea on the different types of wood available.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pjsmoreno Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-28-2022 at 2:55pm

Same here on Lows and Home Depot. Here in the Midwest it’s mostly different grades of pine they carry. At least in my area of the country. Chicago area should have some specialty lumber yards. Douglas Fir comes out of the north west and California. Call around, I’m sure you’ll get a lead.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote blammie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-01-2023 at 2:51pm
Gonna tag my questions to this post, as it has already answered a lot of my questions. I'm hoping I find some takers. I'm also in the process of rebuilding a '68 Barracuda. I have one stringer removed and ran into a snag sourcing new stringer material. I originally was thinking I would use a vertical grain Douglas fir, until I was quoted over $900 a piece for a 2x10x14. I can get by with a 2x8 and shave a little off the price, but probably not enough to make sense. Pretty much, it seems I am priced out of anything with vertical grain. I'm now leaning towards Coosa board, but considering marine plywood, because of the cost. Plywood, I can get locally. Coosa, I can get, but it's a three hour drive. One concern with both of these materials is ensuring I have solid motor mounts. I've read some guys mentioning difficulty keeping screws set in Coosa. I'm looking for guidance from guys that have actually been through the process. Specifically, my questions are geared towards Coosa, but I'd like opinions on plywood as well. There are several grades of Coosa, which do you use for stringers, and which is used for decking? Also, will I have issues with my motor mounts into the Coosa? I'm thinking two layers of 3/4" with staggered seams for the stringers. How do I assemble them? I'll resin them together, but do I screw them, or just clamp and rely on the resin. Your advice would be much appreciated.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote marksa1458 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-01-2023 at 3:26pm
Im sure others will chime in as well.  

I have a little experience with Coosa - I restored a 1990 Mastercraft Prostar and used Coosa for the center decking as the original honeycombed fiberglass was damaged well beyond repair.  I liked the way it cut, the weight and the overall strength of the material.  I don't think I would want to use if for motor mounts (but don't have any experience to give a useable opinion)

For the stringers - there are more options out there.  Whatever you choose will be expensive, but $900 a board is way too expensive.  I would reach out to your specialty lumber store and ask their recommendations - Assuming you are using Epoxy as your adhesive, you need a rot resistant wood that is dimensionally stable and suitable for a marine environment.  Most likely you will embed the stringer into and Epoxy/Filler bedding and then lay subsequent layers of epoxy cloth on top, fully encapsulating the new stringer.  Personally, I would use just one piece of wood and not try to cobble two smaller pieces together.

For the decking - if you use plywood, you need an exterior grade plywood with no knots.  Lowes used to cell a plywood that fit this bill, but they no longer carry it (at least not in my neighborhood) After using the Coosa, I would probably use it if I was ever to do another stringer job (Which I can tell you that I won't!)

You can get wood/coosa shipped as well if you can't find what you need locally.  Hope that is helpful.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samudj01 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-01-2023 at 4:35pm
We were able to source clear Doug Fir from a local lumber yard here in NC. Maybe the "verticle" grain is driving the price up.  $900 per seems high.  Do you need 14ft?  I am not familiar with the length of the Barracuda...our 16.5' boats did not need 14ft.  Ext Ply for floor and stern was sourced from local building supply...if there were knots, we filled them with thickened after CPES.    
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote blammie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2023 at 4:25am
So the $900 price is from my local specialty wood store. It doesn't surprise me. The Mahogany that I was getting for $6.50/bf four years ago is $13/bf today. I"m gonna move my discussion over to another thread. Andrew did his '86 nautique in Coosa, and I'm gonna direct my questions there. Here's the threadn if anybody is interested in following. https://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=50958&KW=andrewmarani&PID=608764&title=stringer-replacement-86-silver-nautique#608764
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