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What is this?

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man0seven View Drop Down
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    Posted: October-16-2018 at 2:08am
Before I get any crap, I just recently read that for some reason Fram oil filters are looked down upon. Please educate me as to why but also keep in mind that I expected to use this filter for about 10-15 hours at most.
Now to the real reason for the post. What is this? And why is it leaking and do I just replace it to stop the leaking?
For reference this is directly below my oil fill port on my GT40 Pro Boss EFI, and next to my oil filter.





Thanks
Brian
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote gt40KS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-16-2018 at 2:47am
Hi Brian,

First, I'm not really sure why others seem to look down of the filters though I'm sure you'll soon find out. I don't personally use them because my experience is the filtration isn't very good, certainly not as good as a Motorcraft which is usually readily available and only a few $ more.   

What you are looking at is an extension "T" off of the engine block for the oil pressure SENDER and the oil pressure SWITCH.
Your   Switch is a bit different and seems to be found on a lot of GT40's - don't know if they had just been replaced by the wrong part at some point or if PCM decided to use a different one somewhere along the way. But mine came with one like yours - and was leaking also and I had replaced it with a like kind before I knew the GT40 specific one was different. I'm sure someone will chime in on this to clear it up.

Leakage from the units themselves requires replacement. If they are leaking from the fittings or the "T" is leaking at the block you should be able to tighten them to stop or reduce it.
The larger of the two is the sender for the oil pressure gauge and the smaller is the switch that will initiate a SLOW or LIMP mode via the ECM (computer) if the pressure drops below a certain level.
JCCI
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-16-2018 at 4:35am
You mention that your filter will only be used for a short time.
For that purpose the inexpensive filters are known to outperform the quality filters.
Engine rebuilders have known this for years. Use a cheap filter for breakin then switch to a quality filter for normal use.
A Hastings filter rep explained why this works.   The cheap filters catch a lot of debris at first and then the bypass opens exposing the engine to unfiltered oil.
The high quality filters don't catch quite as much at first but perform much better in the long run. He had a display showing the internals of many brands of filters which we discussed while looking at them.
Hastings makes a very high quality long term filter by the way.
I also like the premium Wix filters.
Motor raft and AC Delco or Mopar do not make filters, before trusting them you need to know who actually makes them and what quality they are buying as each manufacturer makes a few quality levels and can provide good or cheap filters by request.
If you want to know if a filter is good or bad you need to cut it open and look at the filter and the bypass valve.
In my boat there is no such thing as a long run, I only run 25 hours a year. In a car that would be less than 1,500 miles? If I change my oil every year how would I benefit from the quality filter.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-16-2018 at 7:00am
Brian,
Here's a link from the CCfan FAQ thread on oil filters.

Filters to avoid


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-16-2018 at 9:06am
Originally posted by gt40KS gt40KS wrote:

   
Your   Switch is a bit different and seems to be found on a lot of GT40's - don't know if they had just been replaced by the wrong part at some point or if PCM decided to use a different one somewhere along the way. But mine came with one like yours - and was leaking also and I had replaced it with a like kind before I knew the GT40 specific one was different. I'm sure someone will chime in on this to clear it up.


The 5th and 6th items down in the link are the switches Joe mentions.and the wording says the older smaller style was replaced by the newer big one. so there's the answer   

The smaller one from SkiDim also says it's for Indmar engines. I figure it would fit, but who knows what the setpoint is.

link

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Duane in Indy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-16-2018 at 9:45pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Brian,
Here's a link from the CCfan FAQ thread on oil filters.

Filters to avoid


Read all thru the link and could not find one trace of credible scientific evidence to back up his opinions.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gt40KS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-16-2018 at 10:59pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:



The smaller one from SkiDim also says it's for Indmar engines. I figure it would fit, but who knows what the setpoint is.



According to their site it is a 6 psi switch. GT40 service manual indicates SLOW mode should initiate at 5 psi so technically the switch should work since I believe they are both 1/8" NPT but the SLOW mode may engage 1 psi sooner, which isn't really a bad thing since 6psi is really too low anyway, IMO.   Having said that, if I had known there was a newer version that I was supposed to use I most likely would have gotten it instead.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-16-2018 at 11:04pm
Originally posted by gt40KS gt40KS wrote:

Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:



The smaller one from SkiDim also says it's for Indmar engines. I figure it would fit, but who knows what the setpoint is.



According to their site it is a 6 psi switch.     


Yup, right there in front of me the whole time
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-18-2018 at 11:09pm
Here's another oil filter link from CCF a few years back

How'd that orange filter on Brian's boat do in this person's test/evaluation of filters Hint.... pretty good

Some people can look at things objectively, some can't

link

I can't even find my favorite filter in any of these filter tests
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 89Nautique2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-19-2018 at 12:02am
You should have taken the oil filter off first, then you would not have gotten so much crap.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote man0seven Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-21-2018 at 1:48am
So I switched out the sender with this part and ran it today and the oil pressure gauge read I thought high. Is around 70 normal?

Oil Pressure Sender Sensor... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0797CHW8J?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-21-2018 at 7:23am
Brian,
That 70 PSI sound high. Was it that high before you replaced the sender with this one from Amazon? The way to really get a good idea of true oil pressure is to T in a mechanical gauge next to the sender. Did you get the one from Amazon because it was less expensive?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-21-2018 at 9:13am
Marine oil pressure gauges have been pretty standardized with a range of 0-80 psi for a long time now.

If your gauge is a 0-80 and the new sending unit is also a 0-80 they should work together.

If it was cold oil right after startup 70 wouldn't be a big surprise

Warm oil high speed it wouldn't be a surprise either with it dropping down when you come back to idle.

70 all the time would be a surprise though meaning "something ain't right"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote man0seven Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-21-2018 at 12:53pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Did you get the one from Amazon because it was less expensive?

Thanks Pete. Yes, I was trying to find the same part for less.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote man0seven Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-21-2018 at 12:56pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

Warm oil high speed it wouldn't be a surprise either with it dropping down when you come back to idle.

70 all the time would be a surprise though meaning "something ain't right"

Thanks Keno. Yeah, it stayed 70 when cold, warm and rev’d up. I think I’ll put the old one back in and see what it says. I don’t remember it always reading that high so I’ll check again.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gt40KS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-21-2018 at 2:34pm
The part does cross-reference to the PCM replacement R020001.   Sometimes, you get what you pay for - generic or 'overseas' parts aren't always the best deal
If the sender checks out OK the list of 'easy' fixes is fairly short: gauge or wiring.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote man0seven Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-23-2018 at 3:10am
I swapped the old one back in and sure enough it fluctuated and stay around 40 when idling. Do you think it did that because it was bad or not the right type?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote outerbanked Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-23-2018 at 3:42am
I mistakenly bought a "dual helm" oil pressure sending unit which pegged the guage when installed in a single guage setup.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-23-2018 at 9:44am
Originally posted by man0seven man0seven wrote:

I swapped the old one back in and sure enough it fluctuated and stay around 40 when idling. Do you think it did that because it was bad or not the right type?


I guess this would lead to the question of "what's wrong with the old one?"

A dual station sending unit like Outerbanked mentioned will read twice as high as as a single station sending unit when used with a single gauge. That's probably not your problem since the gauge goes to 70 and doesn't move with the new sender.

Like gt40KS said the part number cross references to the original PCM number.

What does the gauge read when you turn the key to RUN with the engine OFF?

Here are some troubleshooting instructions in the link.

Don't mind that they say Teleflex, they apply to your Sierra also

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote man0seven Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-23-2018 at 12:38pm
It seemed to be working properly but it was leaking a little oil.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-23-2018 at 6:18pm
Originally posted by man0seven man0seven wrote:

It seemed to be working properly but it was leaking a little oil.

Did you clean up the area to get a good look at the source of the leak? Maybe it was just the threads? If it is just the threads, don't use any pipe sealant or tape. The body of the sender is the ground source via the block for the gauge circuit.


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