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    Posted: October-26-2018 at 4:12pm
New to the forum but have used it as a reference for the last couple of years. Thank You!

I have a 1956 Atom Skier, the original owner was my dad and friend. The friend handed the boat over to my brother in 1990. I now have taken over the project of rehab and hope to do an inaugural launch next summer. Goal 1 is to have it run and give the grandkids a ride around the lake. Goal 2 is to attend some boat shows when I retire in 10 years pending my kid's college expense.

I am not a mechanic or carpenter, I'm a high school principal who likes to tinker on projects. I', open to buying quality and learning how to install myself. Just don't want to break anything.

Boat looks in pretty good shape, but I would like to have you veterans ask questions or advise me to consider items of priority.

General comments and pics to give you an idea of the scope of the project:
1.   The boat floats with only leak coming in through drive shaft log. I repacked it.
2. The engine now runs, with concern the temp gauge does not move until I have it up to 2500 RPMs. Have not aligned the drive shaft to the engine yet.
3.   Original 6-volt system, generator, wire harness. I have to start it with a 12-volt jump, but it runs fine, and generator pushes amps at 12/14 ohms
4. Outside hull has been repainted recently
5. Nothing was done with top deck, considering repairs or replace?
6. Back transom was glassed by my dad after several years of water ski action.
7. Original trailer now has new wheels and bearings
8. I think I need to instal a bilge run off a separate 12-volt system.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-26-2018 at 4:40pm
John,
Welcome to posting. I've caught you on site a couple times. Your screen name drew my attention and I was wondering when we'd see something from you.

#2 - Some older marine engines didn't have T stats so it takes some time for them to warm up. What you are getting is normal.

#3 - You should not need a 12 volt jump to crank that engine. Check the condition of your battery, the battery cables and their terminations.

#5&6 - From the picture, it does look like the deck will need new ply at some time. When you dig into it, that's the time to get the glass off the transom and replace the ply there.

#8 - You should have a siphon bailer near the transom typically on the port side. They do work but if your hull is in good condition like you have said, it shouldn't be needed. I do not have a bilge pump in my Atom. A ply boat doesn't leak if it's sound.

Keep the pictures coming as well as any questions you may have.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-26-2018 at 7:32pm
John,
Here's the siphon bailer you should have.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote juniorwoody Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-26-2018 at 8:23pm
Not a big fan of those auto balers Pete. Like to hear what others feel about them. Considering leaving mine out on the 1950.
The value of money spent on new adventure far exceeds the value of money saved for the future
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 56-Atom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-26-2018 at 10:31pm
I have it

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 56-Atom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-28-2018 at 6:26pm
For this year I am hoping to patch the deck problem areas and then do the new ply next fall/winter.

Is there a good way to patch the deck areas?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-28-2018 at 6:40pm
Originally posted by 56-Atom 56-Atom wrote:

Is there a good way to patch the deck areas?

Not really but for a temporary until you put some new ply on the deck, I's go with original Famowood.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote juniorwoody Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-28-2018 at 7:35pm
Must be coming into some good weather. As Pete says the patch will work great short term. Was there no detail routed into the 1956 on the deck, I wonder. Also I noticed that it looks to be 3/8 plywood on there. Is that true. That's what ours has. At some point they went to 1/4 unless both of ours have been replaced along the way.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-28-2018 at 7:56pm
Jack,
The deck is 1/4" but the fore deck where it overhangs aft into the cockpit is doubled up with two layers of 1/4".

John,
Note that I stated "temporary" for the patch. You will need to get several coats of spar varnish on the deck and filler.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 56-Atom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-28-2018 at 8:12pm


A couple of other pics to give you an idea what I have. It looks to be 1/4


Sales Brochure ( I have all the original sale paperwork) identifies the construction


Thanks for the help, as I want to attempt to replace to original specs next year.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 56-Atom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-04-2018 at 7:08pm
Winterized and pulled motor. Inspected the strut and is square to hull. Cutlas bearing is a 4" seated aft on strut. Seems to allow for some play with shaft laying on lower side of log. I will plan to replace. Is 4" bearing the proper setup? I see 2" and 6" bearings available.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-04-2018 at 8:52pm


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 56-Atom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-06-2018 at 7:42pm
Inspected the shaft. Seems to not be set correctly. The historic sales receipts indicate it was purchased in 1978. 40'x1'.


recommendations? Pull and reset? Go with a new shaft set-up?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ArtCozier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-06-2018 at 8:18pm
Hey Pete, what do you do if you have only a siphon bailer and you are broken down in the middle of the lake? I suggest a Whale pump for a backup!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-06-2018 at 8:41pm
They just wait until the sun goes down and the water freezes again and then just walk home Art.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-06-2018 at 9:24pm
Originally posted by ArtCozier ArtCozier wrote:

Hey Pete, what do you do if you have only a siphon bailer and you are broken down in the middle of the lake? I suggest a Whale pump for a backup!

Broken down as an engine failure or broken down as a big hole in the boat? If the engine quits, there's always a paddle. If there's a big hole in the boat, then there are life preservers! If you carry a Whale pump, then you must ether be prone to hitting things or are out in a boat that's not is very good shape.   


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-07-2018 at 5:50am
Originally posted by 56-Atom 56-Atom wrote:

Inspected the shaft. Seems to not be set correctly. The historic sales receipts indicate it was purchased in 1978. 40'x1'.
recommendations? Pull and reset? Go with a new shaft set-up?

John,
What specifically are you concerned with the existing shaft? What's not set correctly? The alignment?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ArtCozier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-07-2018 at 9:19am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by ArtCozier ArtCozier wrote:

Hey Pete, what do you do if you have only a siphon bailer and you are broken down in the middle of the lake? I suggest a Whale pump for a backup!

Broken down as an engine failure or broken down as a big hole in the boat? If the engine quits, there's always a paddle. If there's a big hole in the boat, then there are life preservers! If you carry a Whale pump, then you must ether be prone to hitting things or are out in a boat that's not is very good shape.   


Lol! Anyone who knows what a Whale Pump is must have been in boating for a lo-o-ong time!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 56-Atom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-07-2018 at 12:17pm
The shaft and coupler are 40 years old at best estimate. The coupler is not seated flush with end of shaft at this time, about .20 overhang of the coupler.
Specific question for forum members:
Is a 40 yr old shaft and coupler a concern and should I just invest in new shaft and coupler?
Or
Shaft and coupler are timeless and I should pull coupler, make sure shaft is true and re-set coupler assuming the heat coupler in the oven is preferred method.

Thank for your advice.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-07-2018 at 1:00pm
Does the .o2 stickout interfere with the other coupler?

If so, why not just grind it flush?

Seems like that would be a lot less work.

You can check runout with the coupler on.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ArtCozier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-07-2018 at 1:07pm
If it doesn't touch the transmission output shaft, no worries. Put a piece of tape on the end of the shaft (in the middle of the transmission coupler, push the other half of the coupler up tight to its mate, Then look at the tape for a mark. No mark, leave it alone. What is important is that the coupler be tight on the prop shaft, no movement whatsoever between the two coupler halves.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 56-Atom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-07-2018 at 1:30pm
Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:

Does the .o2 stickout interfere with the other coupler?

If so, why not just grind it flush?

Seems like that would be a lot less work.

You can check runout with the coupler on.


Yes, the .20 does not allow for couplers to be connected and set screw (picks added) is offset as well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 56-Atom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-07-2018 at 1:38pm
Originally posted by ArtCozier ArtCozier wrote:

If it doesn't touch the transmission output shaft, no worries. Put a piece of tape on the end of the shaft (in the middle of the transmission coupler, push the other half of the coupler up tight to its mate, Then look at the tape for a mark. No mark, leave it alone. What is important is that the coupler be tight on the prop shaft, no movement whatsoever between the two coupler halves.


The overhang of prop shaft does not allow two couplers to mate. I thought this might be due to a bad alignment, then I removed engine and prop shaft to take a closer look.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote ArtCozier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-07-2018 at 2:21pm
There's your problem. The index dimples in the shaft are not lined up with the setscrew holes. The shaft has moved forward in the coupler half. The procedure is to put the setscrews in just a bit more than hand-tight, then tap the coupler a bit in each direction, parallel to the shaft. The sets will loosen up a bit. Repeat that process over and over until you reach the desired torque on the setscrews.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-07-2018 at 2:38pm
Originally posted by ArtCozier ArtCozier wrote:

tap the coupler a bit in each direction, parallel to the shaft.    

John,
If the coupling half can be moved by tapping, then the fit is bad. The copling bore to the prop shaft is a interference fit. The coupling needs to be ether pressed on/off or heated.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 56-Atom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-07-2018 at 4:26pm
Sounds like the 40 yr old shaft/coupler is worth some time to attempt the tap test and or pressing into position. Then I'll check the shaft.

Thanks for the wisdom. Still trying to catch the humor behind the whale pump, but I am sure being new to the forum has it's learning curve.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote ArtCozier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-07-2018 at 4:37pm
Whale is a brand name for an old-fashioned plunger type pump that has been manufactured for many, many years. The originals were a brass cylinder with the plunger and valves inside. It looks a lot like an old-fashioned bicycle pump, and because of its simplicity it's virtually failure-proof. You don't see them much anymore. Pete and I have fun needling each other occasionally. Welcome to the website!
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Yup, that's it. Mine is a modern version in plastic and it doesn't have the stand-on pedal to hold it in place.   
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Originally posted by ArtCozier ArtCozier wrote:

Yup, that's it. Mine is a modern version in plastic and it doesn't have the stand-on pedal to hold it in place.   
no mine is the modern version. It’s in plastic, has two wires, I hook it up to a 12v source. Works like a charm
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