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351w crankshaft help

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428CobraJet View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 428CobraJet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-03-2018 at 4:29pm
I've got a ton of money in this boat. Many times what I anticipated originally (and probably 10x what I could liquidate it for!). I'm lucky, as a retired teacher, that I could do it. Its beautiful.   The engines represent maybe 20k. The machine shop only a small portion of that. Its probably the best Nova24Vdrive out there.

I'm not looking for blame. I'm looking for the cause so that we can all rectify it.

The machine shop owner couldn't find an obvious cause. I reached out to you guys because so many of your boats run the blue oval...in small block form. More than anyone else except, perhaps, Shamrocks. I also reached out to the CC Commander and Donzi Restoration fb sites because there are some ccw Fords in there.

These guys are not Walmart.   These are artisans. The machine shop came highly recommended by a car/motorcycle shop i deal with (who is extremely demanding). The Machine shop received boxes of parts from me (as opposed to tired but running motors). I knew nothing about them. We ended up sourcing different blocks, stroker kits, and 1 head. Marinization stuff/breakin were done 70 miles away by me and the restoration guys/friends. And this is custom work.

He's a gentleman, well regarded in the machine shop end within the Houston area, and a pleasure to deal with. I am not holding his feet to the fire. I'm thankful he's easy to work with. I will deal with him again.

It will cost me some money, but I'm confident I'll be treated fair. It's just teething issues. And, as we all know, owning a boat is a source of joy no matter the minor ups and downs.

I sincerely appreciate all your comments and suggestions. You told me things I couldn't find elsewhere. And I'm not even a Correct Craft owner (I own a 1967 390 powered Century Arabian in addition to the BossaNova).

:-) Craig

ps...1st splash in April. Me on the right. David (brother of Restoration shop) on port side.
https://youtu.be/w5fucqpyOys
going under bridge in August testing oil pressure validity
https://youtu.be/Smn_j-Pn4sQ
You are what you drive.
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1967 Arabian
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Duane in Indy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Duane in Indy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-03-2018 at 6:40pm
edit: I posted this before seeing the above post, yet I still stand by my post. Duane

Originally posted by MrMcD MrMcD wrote:

The engine turned hard right from the machine shop


There is NO way that .001 out on the crank scrapped this build. I doubt that the builder could duplicate his .001 error in the crank checking it the way that he did. Guys .001 is nearly nothing in a span of 24 inches. I still feel that there are two contributing factors that must be resolved before another build is performed.

1.   Verify that the block is straight. I highly suspect there in lies the problem (needs align bored) At the very least it should have be deemed a good block to build on.

2.    Have someone check this guys work or take it elsewhere. He obviously dropped the ball when he sent an engine out the door that was destined to fail.

Tight rotating assemblies don't get better.   They get hot and seize. This guy holds all the credentials to be a "back yard hack" (in the words of our Grand Wizard)

Warranty or not I would not be comfortable with another job from that assembler. NO good builder will ship an engine that is "tight" on rotating.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-03-2018 at 6:47pm
Sure seems obvious that there was insufficient clearance on the mains. Either the machining/bearing matching wasn’t done right (or verified, or both), or something is either bent or not straight. Tight when assembled = bad. If it were an oiling issue, I’d expect the rods to suffer first- not the mains.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-03-2018 at 9:10pm
Since the Crankshaft is aftermarket you might consider having it ground .010 undersize.
Any oddities would show up on the crank grinder.   A crank polish will probably cost $40 while a grind and polish might be $100-$120. Money well spent to have peace of mind.
This crank ate a set of main bearings o the surface is compromised right now and will at least need a polish so a grind/polish is not a big step up.
AER in Dallas is well known and builds thousands of engines for GM, Ford, Chrysler, Nissan and Mazda.   They know how to grind a crank with proper finish.
For many years most of the GM rebuilds sold at the GM dealerships were built by AER.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 428CobraJet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-03-2018 at 9:19pm
The crank is at a place in Houston...Pete's Crank Grinding and Repair.   Waiting for a decision from me.

But, yes, plan on turning and polishing directionally, demagnetizing, straightening...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 428CobraJet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-05-2018 at 11:15am
new development...just heard results of magnaflux of crank. 1-1.5 inch crack. I'm guessing caused by dropped valve of 1st engine...but dunno

sounds like the cause of whole mess.

Best news I've had in a few weeks.
You are what you drive.
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1967 Arabian
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-05-2018 at 2:34pm
You can rap on a crankshaft with a small hammer or piece of steel. If it rings like a bell you have no cracks. If it makes a thud sound it is cracked. Quick and easy test.
Obviously you don't hit it on any of the machined surfaces and you don't hit it hard, just a tap to make it ring.
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