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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldskiboat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2019 at 11:54am
I was looking at your pictures. The only thing I noticed between what you have and what is in my 75 Southwind 20 is that the plywood is 3 inches thick in the Southwind and quite a bit smaller in surface area. I would say about 12" wide by 18" long.
Gary
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2019 at 11:55am
Derrick,
I didn't realize the ply you are using is treated. It doesn't look like it from the picture. Ok, treated ply is NOT recommended. The treatment for rot doesn't like resin and can interfere with the bond. Regular ply with a CPES is the way I would go.

Any high strength filler that will fill in any gaps between the hull and the new ply backing will work. Just stay away from the low strength fillers that are "easy to sand".

Over the top of the ply glass depends on what you will be using. With matt, a couple will do it. With a lighter glass fabric, I'd go 3 to 4.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote beardo73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2019 at 12:12pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Derrick,
I didn't realize the ply you are using is treated. It doesn't look like it from the picture. Ok, treated ply is NOT recommended. The treatment for rot doesn't like resin and can interfere with the bond. Regular ply with a CPES is the way I would go.

Any high strength filler that will fill in any gaps between the hull and the new ply backing will work. Just stay away from the low strength fillers that are "easy to sand".

Over the top of the ply glass depends on what you will be using. With matt, a couple will do it. With a lighter glass fabric, I'd go 3 to 4.



Gotcha. That makes sense to me. Would it be better to use solid wood instead of ply for this piece? I will make sure to swap out the wood for a better piece for this application.

Sounds like the Tiger Hair long strand will be perfect. And good to go on the matting for the top layer of the cake.

Thank you for all of your notes and help!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2019 at 12:16pm
Derrick,
Stick with the ply. With the grain direction alternating with each veneer layer, it's stronger in all directions.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote beardo73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2019 at 12:32pm
Sounds good! Will certainly do that. I will take pictures of everything this weekend and hopefully have a good complete journal of the process when it is all done.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2019 at 3:06pm
If the treated ply is fully dry, then it should accept the tiger hair OK.

IMO, the load is mostly compressive, so you just need to hold it in place.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote beardo73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2019 at 4:28pm
It is fully dry. I know how some PT wood comes... Soaking wet! This has been in a heated garage for a long while now. I have read a bunch of conflicting reports everywhere. The trend I have been seeing is that if it is dry, it will stick no problem. If not, no chance it will stick. I am thinking about getting something to measure the moisture content. That will be telling and should provide enough info on which avenue to go.

Thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2019 at 7:03pm
I rebuilt an outboard runabout transom with treated ply 15 years ago & saw it still running on the lake last summer.

Slice off a sliver & see how long it takes to catch fire with a match. (Outside of course). Right away = good to go!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2019 at 7:18pm
Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:

Slice off a sliver & see how long it takes to catch fire with a match. (Outside of course). Right away = good to go!




Chris!!!! Wouldn't this be more accurate?



Basic meters are around $20.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2019 at 7:24pm
Yes, but matches are cheap & so am I!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote beardo73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2019 at 11:18am
Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:

I rebuilt an outboard runabout transom with treated ply 15 years ago & saw it still running on the lake last summer.

Slice off a sliver & see how long it takes to catch fire with a match. (Outside of course). Right away = good to go!



Lol! Simple and effective. I like it. I think we are going to be very good on it. Will try to update and progress made.

Thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2019 at 11:21am
Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:

Yes, but matches are cheap & so am I!






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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2019 at 11:31am
Originally posted by beardo73 beardo73 wrote:

Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:



Slice off a sliver & see how long it takes to catch fire with a match. (Outside of course). Right away = good to go!



Lol! Simple and effective. I like it. I think we are going to be very good on it. Will try to update and progress made.

Thanks!

Simple but I'd say not very effective. Next time I unload a fresh unit at the HD, I'll do an experiment. A unit is so wet that our small fork lift is maxed out. I'll get a sliver off it and see what happens. I'll bet it will light. It's the center of the stack that hasn't been exposed that's real wet.

Derrick,
You'll be Ok since you mentioned the ply has been sitting around for some time so it's probably as dry as it will ever get.

Sorry Chris but I have to say you are damn cheap!!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2019 at 6:40pm
Should be no surprise my quote line is from 'ol Ben!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote beardo73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-25-2019 at 1:17pm
Alrighty. So, here we are. This weekend we got the replacement wood piece in with Tiger Hair, and got the first layer of fiberglass matting over top of it. The second should be going on tomorrow night, worst case Wednesday night. I'll evaluate after that and see if a 3rd layer will be needed. Everything went down very smoothly, set up nicely, and seemed to be VERY firm in there. Hopefully there will not be a reason to ever take this out Pictures are from everything this weekend:















Thank you all again for the help and notes! It has made this process a lot easier!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote beardo73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-03-2019 at 12:21pm
I have a (hopefully) quick question before moving onto the next step. I have the holes drilled for the bolts and cutout done for the rudder port. I am going to be sealing this all together and bolting it down today.

My question is this — when I am putting the rudder back in the rudder port, should I be putting any type of lubrications on the shaft of the rudder? I’m having a hard time telling what was in there before, if anything.

Just want to make sure I do it right putting it all back the first time! Thanks in advance for the help!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldskiboat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-03-2019 at 7:13pm
Mine uses a packing cord. I put three layers between the nut and base making sure the open ends do not line up with each other. When the nut is tightened the cord prevents water from coming into the boat. It also lubricates the cording.
Gary
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldskiboat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-03-2019 at 7:15pm
Here is URL to a picture of a prop shaft, but the principle is the same: https://www.google.com/search?q=boat+packing+cord+for+rudder+and+prop+shafts&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=tQ98VWXvSMflcM%253A%252C2Mk7W2SICKqOsM%252C_&usg=AI4_-kSo96SkbImXMDwbblq942AXU_BWjA&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiK57i5_ubgAhVEheAKHZMUB9sQ9QEwAnoECAMQCA#imgrc=tQ98VWXvSMflcM:
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote beardo73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2019 at 9:45am
Hmm. Very interesting! I can't seem to recall if any cords fell out when I took this sucker apart, but that looks to be exactly what I have going on. Is there any special cording that I need to be using when putting this back together? What size would I be looking for?

Thanks for the help!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2019 at 11:52am
If you look in the big packing gland nut that was screwed to the top of the rudder port, you'll find the rings of packing.

Then you can get new packing if you want to.

Use the same size that was in it

Go to the SkiDim website and you'll find packing.

Or follow the link

link

A little grease on the rudder shaft before you put it into the rudder port will hurt nothing
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote beardo73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2019 at 12:00pm
Thank you for the link! I got both sizes since I am not near the boat and it is cheap enough. Shibby -- the shipping was more than the parts! $7.20 for the parts and +$14 for shipping! lol. Oh well. Small price to pay for a gasket that keeps the boat afloat.

Thank you for the help! I snapped a few pictures of the rudder port and through bolts in there. I didn't get a chance to 3M seal it in and tighten everything up. My extra set of hands was a bit under the weather this weekend. This week, though!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote beardo73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-18-2019 at 2:45pm
Complete! 3M sealed up and everything is assembled again. All the holes lined up. Got everything sealed. Rudder is put back in. Steering components also hooked up and straight. Now just ready to water test and make sure the new packing holds. I will be sure to have some tools close by to tighten it up if it does happen to be leaking too much. Rudder is firm and in place. Nothing like it was to start this winter season! Thanks to all who contributed knowledge and insight to this project!

Onto the next...


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote beardo73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-18-2019 at 2:48pm


Not the prettiest... but we won't be looking at it all that much!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldskiboat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-19-2019 at 2:10pm
You may get a drip drip from the top where the nut clamps down. That is normal. It should drip the same way from the prop shaft. If it is to tight at the rudder it will be hard to turn the wheel.
Gary
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote beardo73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-19-2019 at 2:15pm
I have read that a small drip is okay. I will be doing a water test to see if I have any. I tightened down the nut pretty secure and the first turns of the wheel were tighter than normal, but after going through the full range, it was buttery smooth. That is where my nervousness comes in hoping that I have it tight enough.

A quick water test at the boat launch should provide some insight as to how we are doing. Like I said.. I will have tools with me to tighten up if need be! But, as it sits on the trailer -- seems as if we'll have some smooth sailing!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-19-2019 at 2:28pm
You guy's are killing me The reason you need the prop shaft to drip is to lubricate the packing so that it does not over heat and not so tight that it wears the shafting,done right it only drips as the shaft spins. How fast are you steering ? Three to four thousand revolutions per minute? Once the packing settles down tighten the nut until it does not leak. If you leave it leak at rest you may come back to a boat overnight on the bottom...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote beardo73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-19-2019 at 2:48pm
Playing the newbie card now... lol.

Thank you for your insight there. Sounds like it is something that can't be adjusted unless it's close to water. Water = lubrication. Too much water = submarine.

Is anyone near Pittsburgh area to offer in-person guidance on this?!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-19-2019 at 4:12pm
Originally posted by oldskiboat oldskiboat wrote:

You may get a drip drip from the top where the nut clamps down. That is normal. It should drip the same way from the prop shaft. If it is to tight at the rudder it will be hard to turn the wheel.

Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

You guy's are killing me The reason you need the prop shaft to drip is to lubricate the packing so that it does not over heat and not so tight that it wears the shafting,done right it only drips as the shaft spins. How fast are you steering ? Three to four thousand revolutions per minute? Once the packing settles down tighten the nut until it does not leak. If you leave it leak at rest you may come back to a boat overnight on the bottom...

Gary is correct!! Tighten that rudder gland down so there's no dripping unless, as Gary mentioned, you are cranking that helm at 3 to 4 thousand revs per minute!


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