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Shaft Coupling

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Sam.morrison010 View Drop Down
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    Posted: March-30-2019 at 5:25pm
Hi everyone! I re-installed my drive shaft coupling today and it looks like the flange is bent where it interfaces with the transmission. I'm having a hard time finding a new one online (1" shaft, 4 bolt) that has the set screws 180 degrees from each other and not 90. It's on a 73 Martinique. When I pulled it apart (to replace the cutlass and stuffing box) the alignment was out and I initially tried to use a hammer to get it off before I got smart and used a puller.

Thanks!

Sam
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bfootr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-30-2019 at 5:47pm
I've only seen this one which has the set screws 90 degrees apart. Won't this work?

https://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=CPST4X1.0
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-30-2019 at 6:38pm
Sam,
Lots of couplings to choose from.

You mentioned you needed a puller to remove the coupling which is typical. How did you get the coupling back on the prop shaft? It's a heat shrink interference fit. BTW, what's your concern with the set screws?


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77 Tique

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Keep it original, Pete
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-30-2019 at 6:42pm
Originally posted by bfootr bfootr wrote:

I've only seen this one which has the set screws 90 degrees apart. Won't this work?

https://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=CPST4X1.0

Here's a direct link to Skidims more expensive coupling.


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Keep it original, Pete
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Sam.morrison010 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sam.morrison010 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-30-2019 at 8:32pm
Pete: I threw it in the oven at max temp and slid it on. Nice and easy!

Here's a picture of both where the flange looks bent and then one of the set screws. The bolts are all loosened up in this picture. All the couplings I see have the set screws in a different orientation at 90 degrees from each other instead of 180 like this one? The shaft currently has guide holes for the set screws but does it not matter if I get another one that doesn't? Thanks everyone.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gt40KS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-30-2019 at 10:50pm
Well Sam at first glance ai don't exactly see a bent coupler. it looks more like you need to realign the shaft with the output coupler on the transmission. But I'm sure the resident expert on this (Pete) could confirm this or perhaps better diagnose the issue.
JCCI
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sam.morrison010 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-31-2019 at 12:09am
Definitely right on the alignment, I was starting the realignment process when I noticed what looked like the flange surface that wasn't flat. I watched Pete's video so I'm off to a good start there at least!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-31-2019 at 5:19am
Originally posted by gt40KS gt40KS wrote:

Well Sam at first glance ai don't exactly see a bent coupler. it looks more like you need to realign the shaft with the output coupler on the transmission. .

Joe,
I thought the same when I first looked at the picture but if the feeler gauges tell you the alignment is good then it's an optical illusion.
Sam,
Are you within .003" or below to parallel with the coupling faces? Regarding you concern with the bent face, I'd be tempted to get a flat file on the coupling face and see if it's really bad. It's not the best method but with a couple strokes the face may clean up. The best method is to chuck the shaft with the coupling on it in a lathe and take a cut. That way besides getting any high spots it also ensures the coupling face runs true to the shaft.
Getting back to the set screws, understand they are there as an added safety measure to retain the shaft incase the coupling and shaft become loose due to misalignment fretting. Did you happen to measure the coupling bore and shaft? You mentioned misalignment so it would be a concern. The fit should be at .000" to .0005" under. If you order a coupling from General Propeller, they bore/ream to match the shaft.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sam.morrison010 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-31-2019 at 9:51am
Sounds good, I'll put a file on in this week and see what I can do. I haven't aligned it yet so as it sits in that picture it is out of alignment.

Good to know on the set screws in case I end up ordering a new one. I didn't measure while the coupling was off but based on the removal process I'm not too concerned. When reinstalling I had to pull it back off after a few minutes to adjust the key and it was already pretty well on there.

Thanks guys!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-31-2019 at 10:02am
Sam,
Keep in mind alignment starts at the strut. If the strut isn't aligned (bent or out of position) and you just move the engine, keep an eye on where the shaft is positioned in the log. The shaft should be close to center in the log. Also the shaft should turn freely without binding in the cutlass bearing.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sam.morrison010 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-31-2019 at 10:51am
Hi Pete. I pulled the strut off to replace the cutlass so I have a bit of blank slate. The new cutlass bearing is pretty tight but I'm guessing that's because I don't have the strut where it needs to be yet. After reading through some of the other threads on this subject I'm going to be adding a shaft collar as well!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-31-2019 at 11:00am
Sam,
Sounds like you have some strut alignment to do.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gt40KS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-31-2019 at 11:49am
Pete, isn't the strut supposed to be set with 4200 ... or is it 5200?
JCCI
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-31-2019 at 12:07pm
Originally posted by gt40KS gt40KS wrote:

Pete, isn't the strut supposed to be set with 4200 ... or is it 5200?

4200 makes it easier to remove at a later date but you can get it off if 5200 is used too.

Sam didn't mention if he's bedded the strut in yet? Sam?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-31-2019 at 12:20pm
Originally posted by gun-driver gun-driver wrote:

I have mounted several using Sikaflex and that works very well.

Great product. Which Sika did you use?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-31-2019 at 12:23pm
Pete I use Sikaflex 1a.
It has just enough adhesion strength to do what we need it to do and yet can be removed with less work than the 4200.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sam.morrison010 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-31-2019 at 2:01pm
I have not bedded it in yet. Our local Home Depot didn’t have 4200 or 5200 but they had Loctite PL Marine. Has anyone used this before?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-31-2019 at 2:59pm
Sam,
Loctite makes a fantastic product but I personally have not used the PL marine. Plenty of other PL's with great results. The Marine is a polyether product which I really don't know much about. I'd just go to a supplier like Jamestown and get some 4200 unless someone else can tell you about the PL marine.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-31-2019 at 4:35pm
Being on the cheap side, I've used Loctite PL marine in place of 3M 5200 and I'd have to say I'll probably never use the 5200 again.

They may be different materials but they seem to be about equally strong and the Loctite is quite a bit cheaper and lasts a lot longer in the tube when you don't use the whole tube at once.

I've had to keep 5200 in the freezer to keep it from hardening in the tube, the Loctite hangs out on the workbench and gets used for all kinds of gluing/sealing jobs that are pretty much permanent. (Nothing's really permanent with the right tools )

The PL marine might be too strong for what you're doing
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sam.morrison010 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-14-2019 at 10:22pm
Hi everyone. While the coupling is indeed warped, I was able to get the strut and engine aligned (it took a bit longer to account for coupling warp going around with the feeler gage!) but once bolted up the coupling pulls right in flush and I can spin the coupling and shaft with one hand. Thanks for the input on the strut alignment! I ended up ordering in some 4200 and using it to bed in the strut.
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