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351w condensation in distributor cap

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dockedwages1 View Drop Down
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    Posted: April-24-2019 at 5:11pm
1982 351w complete tune up in February. Everything from skidim. Sent them pictures of distributor and found that I have an 86 and up distributor. So they sent all the right stuff. Boat ran great first weekend. Then it sat for about a month and when I took it out again it ran fine for 10 minutes and then started cutting out. So I turned back towards the dock. By the time I limped back to the dock it wouldn’t even run. Got it started finally and limped into dock. Pulled dist cap and there was condensation and a little corrosion. Cleaned the contacts and rotor and wiped it all down. Let it sit for a couple hours and then it wouldn’t start at all. Waited over night and still no start. Had to leave the lake house and head home so couldn’t do voltage tests on everything. Could I have burned something up limping back for 20 minutes like that? It’s getting fuel into the carb. I’m trying to not order $200 in parts and just change it all out when I get back there.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2019 at 9:36am
What's under the cap a set of points?

You say you cleaned the contacts, do you mean the contacts in the cap?

I'd check for spark when you get back to the boat and clean the points if you don't have spark since a little corrosion on the point contact surfaces can screw up your points ability to function.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nautiquehunter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2019 at 9:42am
I have had good results running a GM HEI distributor in my 351's . I have three of them on my 351 equipped boats all are running great.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2019 at 9:48am
Do you have the gasket that fits under the cap?
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dockedwages1 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dockedwages1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2019 at 12:58pm
I do have the gasket on the cap and I do have points. I looked at the points when I cleaned all the contacts on the cap but I didn’t see corrosion on the breaker points. To be thorough I will clean the points first thing when I get back and then check for spark.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2019 at 1:31pm
Originally posted by dockedwages1 dockedwages1 wrote:

I didn’t see corrosion on the breaker points. To be thorough I will clean the points first thing when I get back and then check for spark.

You can't see the corrosion on the point contact faces. It's like looking at stainless steel. You can't see it but the corrosion is there. It's an oxide film that protects stainless from further corrosion.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dockedwages1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-03-2019 at 6:02pm
Got back to the boat and cleaned points and contacts in distributor. It took 3 attempts with the engine cranking before the boat finally started. Set timing as it was off a little once I got it running. It’s idling perfect at about 650 rom. Turn the key off and it struggles to start now. Took 4 or 5 attempts before it finally started. Once it was running I let it run for 10 minutes in neutral. Cool isn’t really hot but the external resistor is really hot. Disconnected the wires to resistor after I turned it off and tested the ohmsaccross it. It was 2.5. Isn’t that too much?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-03-2019 at 11:02pm
The ballast resistor will always be hot when the engine has been running for a while.

Around 1.3 or so ohms is a good number when the resistor is cold.

Silly question time .......did you subtract the resistance of the test leads from the reading you got on the ballast resistor?

As an example test lead resistance of 0.8 ohms when they're touched together and then you would subtract that number from the reading on the resistor.

Some multimeters that are on the more expensive side automatically compensate for the lead resistance. Most cheaper ones don't.

At low resistances like that of the ballast resistor, it can make for quite a difference in readings.

I guess a description of "it struggles to start" would be good too

What was your start procedure to get it started?
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