Ski Tique Wiring |
Post Reply |
Author | ||
Mille1sj
Senior Member Joined: October-01-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 276 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Posted: May-20-2019 at 8:37am |
|
Most of the engine mechanical work is done, I am moving on to the electrical portion. The engine was converted to an electronic ignition years ago with a PCM coil and a pertronix. The ballast resistor was bypassed and there isn’t a circuit breaker on the engine either. Is this normal for a
77 Ski Tique? I searched the forum and found a few wiring diagrams, most of them show a breaker and a resistor. Anyone have a picture of the bracket on the back of the engine that the resistor, relay and breaker would be mounted to? At some point in the past, someone must have wired something wrong because the plastic cover that goes over these is severely warped like it experienced some heat. |
||
KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Online Points: 10604 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Now that's a good way to start the day There are many deformed ones and many that landed in the trash from the deforming. The diagram below is probably the most accurate for your 77. It shows no breaker and I had a 76 351 PCM that never had a breaker when it was new. Also when the Pertronix was installed , the directions would have recommended bypassing the resistor. If the module is black, it's the original Ignitor and if it's red, it's an ignitor 2. |
||
KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Online Points: 10604 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Here's a picture from an old thread showing the bracket that held the starter solenoid/relay, the ballast resistor the breaker and if you have the original alternator and external voltage regulator, it mounted on the left side of the same bracket
The picture was a 1980's engine |
||
KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Online Points: 10604 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Here's a picture from another old thread with the external voltage regulator mounted to the plate
|
||
Mille1sj
Senior Member Joined: October-01-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 276 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Thanks Ken! The wiring diagram is different than the one I found on the site. Yours looks like what I need. The plat on my engine had the relay, regulator and the abandoned resistor. I just wanted to make sure there wasn’t originally a breaker that was removed at some point.
I just got a new wire harness so I can get rid the old that has been cut and spliced for 40 years. |
||
KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Online Points: 10604 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
That diagram came from when PCM was a division of Waukesha , you can find it in the link below to the CCF reference section.
It's scattered through a lot of threads here on CCF Page 11 of the manual has the diagram. Not much changed till later years, then the TRB diagram is good and a lot easier to follow for early 80's and newer. link |
||
KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Online Points: 10604 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
If it's the harness from SkiDim, you'll have some minor issues with alternator wiring if you're using the original alternator and external regulator since theirs is for later years with an internal regulator. |
||
Mille1sj
Senior Member Joined: October-01-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 276 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
I purchased the SkiDim harness. Thanks for the heads up.
|
||
Mille1sj
Senior Member Joined: October-01-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 276 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
I have a newer style alternator with an internal voltage regulator. Maybe that will make it easier.
|
||
KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Online Points: 10604 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
You should be able to figure it out (or get some help here) What's the brand/model of the newer alternator? BTW Let me know if you want a black plastic unmelted cover complete with the hole for a breaker, I think I have one. Black was from later years |
||
Mille1sj
Senior Member Joined: October-01-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 276 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
I didn't install the new alternator, it was done during the couple years that the boat was sold to someone else, but there was some paperwork for it.
Based on the paperwork and looking online it appears to be an Ac Delco Part # 7152N-94A (201594) Delco 10SI Series Marine 94 Amp/12 Volt Alternator. 1-wire The original voltage regulator was still on the boat and hooked up? I am a little confused why. I guess its possible the person that changed the Alternator didn't know it could be removed. As I mentioned before, there isn't a breaker installed either and the ballast resistor was not being sued.. |
||
8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
That certainly could explain the melted plastic cover!! |
||
Mille1sj
Senior Member Joined: October-01-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 276 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Unfortunately, I have had to fix quit a few things from the last owner, including the holes he cut in the dash and gunnel for a radio, amp and speakers.
So, considering my alternator had a voltage regulator, I should be able to remove the one on the back of the engine by the solenoid. The resistor was bypassed based on the instruction for the Pertronix and the EI Coil. Should I add a 20 AMP breaker? I have no problems wiring an entire house, but this stuff confuses...there is a reason I'm a Mechanical Engineer, not Electrical. |
||
KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Online Points: 10604 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
You can ditch the regulator.
A 40 or 50 amp breaker like in the TRB diagram would be good to add. Your new harness will resemble the TRB diagram. The one wire Delco hookup is easy. The 10 gauge orange wire in the harness goes to the alternator output terminal. The exciter wire (green on his diagram) doesn't get used. Tape the end so it can't short out on anything You probably have an ammeter on the 77 just to complicate things a little If so, you'll be kinda combining parts of both diagrams |
||
DrCC
Grand Poobah Joined: April-12-2004 Location: at home Status: Offline Points: 2867 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
All or most of the black plastic covers were warped or disfigured when these old boats were new within the first 3 or 4 years. It was kind of rare to see one in great condition
And you can edit to remove the "d" and replace it with a "t" but, I'd probably leave it as is cause it's funny. |
||
Keep it....from sinkin'
|
||
Mille1sj
Senior Member Joined: October-01-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 276 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
HA! Auto Correct will get you sometimes... |
||
Mille1sj
Senior Member Joined: October-01-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 276 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Thanks Ken! The harness seemed pretty straight forward at first. Any idea where I can get the bracket like the one in your picture that the plastic cover screws into and holds the breaker? I have a different bracket that only has one hole for the cover to screw in to. I checked SkiDim, but it looks like they only have it as part of a kit. |
||
KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Online Points: 10604 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
You may have changed your D to a T but my quote remains the same And..........I ain't changing it cause like Doc said, it's funny I'll look and see if I have an extra bracket |
||
Mille1sj
Senior Member Joined: October-01-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 276 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
It is forever archived. If you have a bracket, that would be great. I can check with SkiDim too and see if they have a source for the brackets they include in their kits.
|
||
KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Online Points: 10604 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
I'll check for a bracket this afternoon
|
||
KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Online Points: 10604 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Steve
I have a bracket and a black cover that's it real good condition. It hasn't experienced much heaT Send me a PM with your address and they'll be yours. Did SkiDim send any kind of diagram or instructions with the harness? |
||
Mille1sj
Senior Member Joined: October-01-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 276 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Thanks Ken, I really appreciate it. I didn’t get a diagram or anything with the harness from SkiDim.
I’ll send you a PM with my address now. |
||
KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Online Points: 10604 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Steve
Bracket and cover are on the way |
||
Mille1sj
Senior Member Joined: October-01-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 276 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
I got the Bracket and cover today.
Thanks Ken! |
||
Mille1sj
Senior Member Joined: October-01-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 276 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
I could you some assistance finishing the wiring on on my Ski Tique here are some details and photos for reference.
1977 ford 302 Pertronix ignitor (the black one) 1 wire delco alternator Ballast resistor has always been bypassed Voltage regulator was disconnected and taped, I removed it. I have an amp meter on the dash not voltage Can I remove the resistor or do I need to keep it but bypass? Anyone up for a phone call? |
||
Mille1sj
Senior Member Joined: October-01-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 276 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
I looked through some of The wiring diagrams. It looks like I should leave the resistor, and connect the two purple wires and the red from the carb choke to on post on the resistor to bypass. Orange from alternator to the the breaker, then a red wire from other side of breaker to the Solenoid (A) or the positive battery cable.
Any thing standout as being wrong? |
||
KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Online Points: 10604 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
If you want to keep the ammeter functional, you'll have to wire it like the early diagram so the battery charges thru the ammeter.
With the Ski Dim harness, I'd ditch the ammeter and put a voltmeter in it's place. I'll take you up on that phone call Check your PM's for a number |
||
Post Reply | |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |