Air Tique

After a couple of tries i got the correct impeller. Ended up overpaying at a dealer, but it was quick, great people there, and the tech knew exactly what i needed when asking about a 20 year old boat.

Took the boat to the lake to test it out. Fired it up and immediately checked for water flow. There wasnt any. Pulled the pump and switched it around and got it working. I guess what i thought was the logical way of putting it back in was backwards. Anyways, let it warm up on the trailer and now i have a small water leak out of the intake manifold gasket. Guess the motor got a touch too hot with the bad impeller.

I said the hell with it and took it out anyways. It isnt running 100%, but it is enough to drive around the lake and enjoy it for the summer. I plan on pulling the motor this fall and rebuilding it, so not too worried about damaging the motor. I still havent been able to pull the prop, but have a buddy working on burning out parts for the $10 prop puller. Going to take it out again tomorrow and give it another go. After I know it is somewhat reliable i need to pick up a polisher and some compound and start working on cleaning up the hull. It is dull and very dirty from me working on it and climbing in and out.

Any suggestions on polishers and compound? I havent polished/buffed a boat before, but figured with some youtube education and tips from here i can figure it out. It cant get worse.

Also, the carpet is nasty, and i generally dont like carpet. Anyone out there tear it out and put down sea deck or something similar?

EDIT: Thinking about picking up a DUI distributor. That is something i can add now that will transfer to the new or rebuilt engine. Are they worth it? I am looking at https://performancedistributors.com/product/marine-dui-distributors/ which is what i have read in other posts.

Quick update. I took the boat out again to cruise around this past Saturday. The starter is now staying engaged too long, or wont engage so that was interesting. The motor seems to be running stronger, and i finally got the majority of the unknown age gas out of it and put in some fresh non-ethanol. WOT seemed a little off. When i got back home i checked out the linkage. At > ~85% throttle the linkage was binding up with the secondaries so i took care of that. Might try to get out some day after work to run some more gas and some sea foam through it.

Still need to get a photo of it on the water to post up.

I will get the pictures posted up this afternoon. Took it out yesterday and now that the throttle can open all the way it isnt running as good. I am thinking that the secondaries arent open because they were being jammed up before and the diaphragm is probably bad.

Also swapped out plugs, doing fuel filter today and going to check the diaphragm. Maybe i can get it locally, otherwise i will probably order one and give it another test this coming weekend. I really need to do the shaft packing. I have to run the bilge for 1-2 minutes every half hour so it is well over how much it is supposed to drip.

Here i changed the angle of the throttle cable so it can pull to WOT. It just changed the angle slightly.


Here the bolt was sticking about 3/8 of an inch out the back. At close to WOT it was hitting where the red arrow is. My assumption is that was stopping the secondaries from opening and over time caused the diaphragm to go bad. I will be checking that tonight after work.

I'm looking for the factory tall pylon and have a shorty if you don't like the tall pole....completely understand if you want to keep it but I'm scouring the web for possible trades :) nice boat!

Sounds good. Send me an email mdvalant at gmail   (sorry if I type it as it should be i'll get spammed)

I don't hang out on the site much so just want to be sure I don't miss your message.

Did you take the choke housing off so that you could remove the secondary diaphragm housing?

Assuming that you did, there should be a small cork gasket where the housing seals to the body of the carburetor.

Was that there and in good shape.

The plugs making a big difference may just be a band aid since the plugs are telling you a story about the rest of the engine usually indicating a problem with something like the fuel or ignition system (or rings or valve seals etc) instead of the plugs just going bad for no reason.at all.

Being way up high in Colorado, do you know if the boat is jetted for high altitude?

On it's best day your engine is down about 15% in power and you say it's not too healthy to begin with.

It could be that the secondaries aren't opening because the demand isn't there.

At roughly sea level the secondaries are probably right on the edge of opening at 3800 rpm or so on a good running engine.

A rebuild of the carburetor couldn't hurt

I don't think I remember seeing any timing numbers both at idle and at high RPM's so that you know it's advancing properly. This could be causing your problems if it's not advancing like it should.

I bought the kit off SkiDim. Part # RNO120-1 Repair Kit for my Holley 4160 on Ford 351 with PCM Headers and Velvet Drive Transmission. Mine is a 1988 Sierra Supreme though.

According to holley's web site search i need a 703-47 this one

Some of them look like they have rubber gaskets, this one shows cork. I know the pictures could be outdated, but wondering if someone has purchased one recently.


Basically 46+shipping from holley or 50 (55-10%) from NP where i already will be ordering from. The NP one says it doesnt include the base gasket though

brantb wrote: According to holley's web site search i need a 703-47 this one Some of them look like they have rubber gaskets, this one shows cork. I know the pictures could be outdated, but wondering if someone has purchased one recently. Basically 46+shipping from holley or 50 (55-10%) from NP where i already will be ordering from. The NP one says it doesnt include the base gasket though

I'd get whichever one you're comfortable with, I can't imagine that Holley would be selling a kit with the old gaskets still.

The blue ones aren't rubber, but some kind of non stick gasket material.

The ink below has an exploded view of a Ford PMGR starter

It's an automotive one and the parts you'd be replacing for the gear issue aren't any different between marine and automotive

link

No spring

Brant,
The return spring is inside the solenoid.

The packing should be fine

it compresses and flattens out

Don't complain about a job going easy