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Atwood Trailer Coupler Rebuild

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MrMcD View Drop Down
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    Posted: June-20-2019 at 5:25pm
Edit done to list actual parts available for this repair updated June 15, 2021.

My 1995 DHM trailer came with an Atwood Hydraulic brake actuator for Drum Brakes, this coupler was one of the most common brake actuators used on boat trailers but parts to repair it are no longer sold, Atwood is out of business.
If your Atwood Brake actuator needs a rebuild here are parts available today to get that done.   I have not found a source for a new shock absorber for this coupler but my boat did not need a new brake actuator shock.  If one of you can come up with a new replacement shock for this coupler that would be great.
Some of the parts listed in the original 2018 post have now failed so I am updating to help give an accurate list of good repair parts available today in 2021.  
I am going to edit out my original posts to reflect these changes.

Dorman sells a Rebuild Kit for the 1" hydraulic Master Cylinder, parts in the Dorman kit allow you to rebuild your master.  The new piston cup and parts fit and work, there are slight differences in manufacture style and even length but these parts work and fit like new.  

Dorman Master Cylinder Rebuild Kit is Part # TM19356, this kit comes with a boot for the master cylinder that is too large and will not work.  You will toss this dorman boot.  The important internal Dorman rebuild parts work perfectly and this kit is available many places, Amazon was around $16 O'Reilly AP $32. so you can get these needed parts.

For the Rubber Master Cylinder Boot I found a part sold by EMPI, a old VW Air Cooled supplier.  The old VW rectangular shaped master cylinder has the right sizes to work with the ATWOOD coupler.  EMPI part # EMP-16-2162-0 also listed elsewhere as 16-2162 is a little longer, about 3/8" than the OEM ATWOOD part but fits and functions perfectly.  Any old Air Cooled VW house can get the EMPI part or AMAZON lists it for around $16.  It does fit the end of the Master but I thought it popped off a little easy so I used a zip tie and tightened it around the boot end and the master cylinder.  With the Zip tie it is secure, fits well and I have no leak concerns.

I repaired my ATWOOD two years ago because the master had rust in it, a quick hone, (master cylinder hone tools are available at most parts stores) and the master cylinder cleaned right up, with new parts it worked.   The boot I installed in 2018 failed, it split and water got in so my master rusted again and would not work this year.  The VW EMPI boot is an OEM quality part for a passenger car, it will last many years, very good quality.

Fel Pro sells gasket stock on small rolls which you can use to make a new gasket for the master cylinder seal to the atwood coupler.  I cut my new gasket from Fel Pro Gasket Stock with scissors and used a drill to make my bolt holes, since no factory gasket is available for the Atwood coupler.  I did not record the Fel Pro part # for the gasket roll but if needed I can go back and get it..

My Atwood coupler is welded on and parts are discontinued. Prices for those parts if available have gone up by five fold if you can find them.

In 2018 I tried a Tilton Tilton Master Cylinder Rebuild Kit part #74-1000RK, and the boot lasted only 2 years which allowed another failure.   Use the EMPI rubber boot and the Dorman Kit, they are a better repair for the ATWOOD.

I tried to add additional photos showing the parts purchased but only one photo would load.  The picture shows my Atwood coupler on our 1995 DHM boat trailer.  The receiver hitch is installed and I use a 1/2" bar about 14" in length with 100 pounds of weight slipped on to apply the brakes for adjustment and for bleeding the trailer brakes.  I wish I had an adapter to connect my Motive Brake Bleeder to this trailer, that would make it easy to bleed the brakes but with this set up I can bleed the system in about 30 minutes, not too bad.  With the set up attached with 100 pounds of weight like in the photo the weight will either be spongy or hard when applied.  If they are spongy you have air in the system, keep bleeding and get the air out.  Working proper with no air in your brake lines you will feel the brake actuator move when you apply the brakes and there is a firm feeling to the application, it goes hard and stops, you can lean on it and add more pressure but it should be hard at that point, no spongy feeling.  With 100 pounds of weight on the brake the tires on mine will rotate backwards with firm hand pressure but not at all forwards.  To get the left and right tires adjusted equally I use just 50 pounds of weight on the coupler and then adjust the wheel brakes manually with the weight on the coupler, I adjust till both wheels can be turned with a strong hand on them spinning them forward.  A couple clicks on the star wheel adjuster in each brake allows you to adjust each tire to apply equally.

Hope this helps.  I saw one of these Master Cylinders for sale on EBAY, just the Master cylinder, not the coupler, they wanted $400.   With the listed parts most of these old cylinders could be rebuilt so you avoid needing a new Brake Actuator which are available from companies like Titan for around $250 but if yours is like mine it is welded on to the trailer so not an easy swap.




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Jonny Quest View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-20-2019 at 10:07pm
I have the same trailer and it HAD the same surge brake actuator. I feel your pain. I looked at rebuilding the actuator, but since the drum brake assembly also needed some love, I decided to upgrade to disk brakes.

Basically, I used an angle grinder and cut/ground the old weld-on actuator off. Then I installed a bolt-on Titan surge actuator for disk brakes. Then I swapped the old drum brakes for disk. I bought a disk brake kit from etrailer.com    The install was very easy. No real problems.

Not exactly what you wanted to hear -- but that's how I fixed my similar problem.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-21-2019 at 1:34am
Thanks Jonny, I appreciate the feedback.
I would prefer Disc brakes also. Are you happy with the results?

Since I ordered a kit and took time today to clean up the old Master Cylinder I hope the parts will fit and I can get back on the road.
If not, I will get out the grinder.
I have one of the really thin blades for my 4" angle grinder that goes through metal like butter, that would be the easy part.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-21-2019 at 4:22pm
Edited in 2021, the repair below did not work.   I listed parts that do work in the opening post.

"The Tilton Master Cylinder Rebuild Kits 74-1000RK came in this morning.
The parts match up good except for the rubber boot that covers the push rod.
The Tilton is set up for a smaller lip and will not work.
I will try and find a boot and get this back together.
The old Atwood MC honed out just fine so it should work with the new parts."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-21-2019 at 8:15pm
Originally posted by MrMcD MrMcD wrote:

Thanks Jonny, I appreciate the feedback.
I would prefer Disc brakes also. Are you happy with the results?


I'm very pleased with the overall results. The disk brakes were easy to install and much easier to maintain than drum brakes (IMO). I used the opportunity to install good bearings and races all around. I went with National Bearing and Timken -- hopefully to avoid potential Chinese poor quality stuff. (Yes, I realize that some Timken bearings may originate in China).

Unfortunately, the surge actuators for disk and drum are different, so I didn't even consider rebuilding the Atwood drum actuator. I'll admit that I'm a little over-the-top sometimes and I decided to replace all the brake lines on the trailer during the drum-to-disk swap. Not a big deal as I have a brake like flare tool.

Additionally, I'm not a big fan of the weld-on units as R&R is not an option. Bolt-on is the way to go in my mind.

Also, I got the solenoid actuated reverse lock-out for backing. Love it.

JQ
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-22-2019 at 4:04am
Thanks for the information Johnny.
I drilled my last two Atwood's for a reverse lockout pin. I slide it in before putting this trailer in my garage.   I have to back uphill and manuver a 90 degree turn to get in my garage.
The lock out pin works fine so far.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-05-2021 at 11:32pm
Follow up June 2021.  The Tilton Kit Boot for the Atwood actuator failed after 2 seasons use, It split and let water in and rusted my master cylinder so I have no brakes on my trailer.  Looking at options, hoping to find a compatible replacement boot since that is the only part failing.  I can hone the Master Cylinder bore to repair it and the piston cups are available as standard 1" but I need this rubber boot to keep water out.

Further Searching found a Dorman Part # TM19356 available on Amazon for $16.  There is a testimonial from a user that installed this kit in the ATWOOD actuator and say's it works perfectly.  I ordered and will install Monday.  These Master Cylinder parts look just like the ATWOOD repair Master Cylinder parts in Kit Part # 85852 which has been discontinued for many years but there is one for sale on Ebay for $40.
I also found the original Atwood part # for the boot is 84258 shown as part #8 in the Atwood parts picture.
I will report back if there are any problems with the Dorman kit.  These Atwoods use a 1" master cylinder bore so parts are pretty standard.

Hope this helps the next guy with an old Atwood Actuator for the Trailer Brakes.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-10-2021 at 1:48am
Update Atwood hydraulic brake actuator rebuild.  Some parts came in, Dorman TM19356 is a good kit to rebuild the master cylinder but the boot in the kit will not work it is too large.

Empi makes a replacement boot, sold for old air cooled VW master cylinders part # 16-2162, this boot shows it's size in the advertising and appears it will work.  ID front and back are correct and the length looks good.  Hard to get, I had to order and wait.  Should have parts by this weekend but I can't get to this until later.  Will report back on the fit.  If this is a correct part between the two items an Atwood could be rebuild for under $30.   Better than cutting it off the trailer and installing a new actuator for $225.  

Empi 16-2162 Replacement Boot fits and works.


Details and part numbers for the Master Cylinder Rebuild were added on the original post from 2018 at the start of this thread.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-16-2021 at 3:46am
New Photos added
EMPI BOOT and Dorman Kit shown




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-16-2021 at 9:30am
Hopefully it'll hold up...

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-16-2021 at 1:26pm
I have confidence in the parts installed and the brakes are working really well even though my master cylinder has now been honed twice, 2018 and this year.   I was out last weekend with two friends, one had a 1990 boat and the other a 1989.  Both said they have never checked the trailer brakes.
I like them to work when needed.   If not so frugal I would have upgraded like you to disc brakes and a new coupler.   If the titan kit had a better rubber boot it would have worked.
After all the practice the Atwood can be rebuilt and working again in about 2 hours.  Bleeding the system takes a chunk of that time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ddumbauld Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-12-2021 at 2:02pm
Thanks for the very informative thread.  I seem to have this Correct Craft trailer with the Atwood hitch.  It was the original trailer on my 1994 Sport Nautique.

The last two times I've used it the trailer it has been super difficult to release from the hitch (without any boat on the trailer).  Specifically, when I pull up on the tongue release mechanism, the trailer coupler will not release from the ball of the hitch.  I've had to resort to pulling the hitch off the tow vehicle and then releasing the ball of the hitch from the trailer coupler. 

When the hitch is separate from the trailer coupler, I can feel the the part of coupler mechanism(not sure that's the right description) that slips under the ball of the hitch;  when I pull up on the release that part of the coupler does not release.  I have to actually push it out of the way in order to get it to release.

I wasn't sure if anyone on this thread has experience can provide advice.  Is there something that needs lubricated?  Repaired?

Any thoughts on how to proceed would be much appreciated!

Thanks.
Dave
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