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ANother GT40 struggle thread

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TRIP View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRIP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: ANother GT40 struggle thread
    Posted: June-30-2019 at 1:02pm
Been going through some recent threads and seems I'm not the only one having issues! :p

Anyway, this one has been developing slowly over the last couple weeks. Started with engine dying after 1.5-2 hours of use. Then took 10-15 minutes before it would start again. Did turn over but did not start until then.
Happened 2 or 3 times, then also died when cold after only a couple minutes of use. Plus getting harder/taking longer before it would start again.

Now, been trying to figure it out for several days, some days it won't start at all. Other days it will start once, run for 15 minutes or so, then die and won't start again. If it runs it runs pretty good. Not perfect, especially when idling you feel/hear rpm's change a little bit, but nothing terrible.
Changed the fuel filter inside the FCC.
Got a spark, and got fuel going into the rails.
Changed ECM with one from another GT40 but didn't change anything.
Spark plugs were pretty grey but seem OK. Going to try to find the right ones though and change 'em out (not as easy as it sounds where I am).

What's driving me mad is that occasionally it does fire up, but 99 out of 100 attempts it does not.

I read about starter solenoids here, could it cause this behaviour? Where do I find it and how can you check if it's working OK.
Other recommendations, tips, ideas...?!

Thanks in advance!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kylem428 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2019 at 5:02pm
I would start with a distributor cap and rotor change and also maybe do plugs/wires. Hard to know since it is so intermittent. Usually if it is fuel pump solenoids they just don’t work at all.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2019 at 5:49pm
Hook up a fuel pressure gauge on a long 5-6' hose so you can monitor the fuel pressure as it happens. There is a test port on the top of the fuel rail.
Once hooked up it will allow you to see right away if you have a fuel issue.
It will not be a waste of time since at this point you need to start eliminating possible causes.

If it starts and runs pretty good sometimes that rules out many possible causes and points to others.
!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2019 at 6:06pm
Ken, I think most builders today accept it is OK to bring in full timing earlier than they did in the past. Most bring in full timing at 2,800 to 3,300 today. I don't know of any still using the 4,000 RPM rule for max timing. I know it is in a fully loaded boat. I have not messed with my Fuel Injected GT40 but on my 78 351 and my 87 Maliby powered with a 350 I changed the curve to bring in full timing by 3,000. They ran good.
Engine builders are conservative in general, they do not want failures, but they are comfortable brining timing in earlier. I think Marine builders were even more conservative for good reason and held timing back to avoid detonation failures.
The old Corvette 327's used to bring in max at 4,000 + all the way to about 1967 but if the distributors are repaired today they bring it in by 3,000 + or - 300 RPM, I think it was an evolution of what you can get away with.
!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRIP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-01-2019 at 12:10pm
Cheers guys!
MrMcD, perhaps your last post was meant for another thread..?

I did change distributor cap and rotor recently, less than a year ago probably. Plugs and wires are next. Good to know a solenoid is either yes or no, instead of maybe and sometimes ;)

Thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-01-2019 at 1:32pm
Sorry about that, not sure how that happened but Keno helped out with a cut and paste in the right spot.
!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chris196 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2019 at 11:45am
Check the 50 amp fuse.
See my recent update to an old thread:

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=41558&title=gt40-intermittent-loss-of-power-at-speed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRIP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-04-2019 at 2:50pm
Thanks chris196, interesting thread. Did check, seems fine.

Mechanic pinpointed issue to distributor. Looking to replace it and saw they're a modest $550 at Nautiqueparts. Found a thread with Ford and other part numbers for what's supposedly the exact some distributor. Like this one for $70.

Can anyone confirm they're the same thing? I just recently put on new rotor and cap so got those.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-04-2019 at 3:50pm
No difference between the automotive and the one in your boat, just fill cap vent hole with silicon and your good.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1995,bronco,5.8l+v8,1106109,ignition,distributor,7108
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gt40KS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-04-2019 at 9:32pm
Originally posted by TRIP TRIP wrote:



Can anyone confirm they're the same thing? I just recently put on new rotor and cap so got those.


Yes, installed a new aftermarket automotive like that in my boat spring of 2018, though not that specific brand. Got mine @ RockAuto for about $70 as well and has worked perfectly since. Plug the vent in the cap as Paul said and you'll be golden.
JCCI
1995 Ski Nautique GT40 -- more or less ...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRIP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-04-2019 at 9:43pm
Happy to hear that, cheers guys!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kylem428 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-07-2019 at 11:13pm
+1 on the auto distributor. Picked one up at NAPA over the counter last year and have been running with no issues.

Kyle
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRIP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-08-2019 at 12:05pm
Found a used one locally (paid more than a new one costs in the US ) and boat is running again!
Did a test run yesterday, oh boy does it feel good to use that boat for what's it made for, after probably 10 trips there to try to get it fixed!

Got a nice shot of my buddy riding :)


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-08-2019 at 12:45pm
Progress! Nice view at your lake.
!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRIP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-08-2019 at 1:24pm
Yes! Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-08-2019 at 10:35pm
Not much can go wrong inside except the PIP sensor. You could pick one up sometime if you get a chance. Remove the gear,pull the shaft and replace it. They are not at all expensive- Link The Motorcraft one being a good choice
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRIP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-16-2019 at 12:34pm
So you can buy that sensor separately... Oh well, for next time. Thanks for the link!

Boat has been running great since changing the distributor. However, since changing it, there's always a smell of something burning, perhaps rubber. Can't find exactly what or where but it's somewhere near the distributor, near the belts, waterpump side. If my nose is right, at least ;)
I think that timing might be a little bit off; from what I read here it should be 5 degrees before (insert 3 letter combo) and the mechanic said he'd put it at 0 degrees.
Could timing being off a bit cause a burnt anything...?
A friend suggested it could be the big (exhaust?) hose, from manifold to damper...
Since it started right when the distributor was changed I figured it had something to do with that, but perhaps just a coincidence and it is something else..
If that big hose, would that possibly the impeller going out? Was about to change that anyway, but what else to check?

Sorry for long rambling post, and thanks for your help!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kylem428 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-17-2019 at 6:49pm
Iirc once you stab the distributor close to the right position (rotor pointing to #1 cylinder at close to tdc) the ecm actually controls timing so if it started then timing should theoretically take care of itself. I had an alternator that was going bad and burning belts. You may have that happening. I replaced mine with the 100amp alt. Kit and still from time to time smell a slight hot rubber smell but the belts are still in tact and exhaust hoses are good. The only time the hoses would burn up is if you were overheating. I also don’t think you could smell an impeller that was going out since it is sealed.

Kyle
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRIP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2019 at 1:45pm
Cheers Kyle! Pretty sure it is the hose overheating and smelling. While engine temp is fine...
Continuing this here since it's another issue now.
Thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lewy2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2019 at 8:35pm
Trip setting the base timing on a GT40 is a bit different because the ECM does the advance so you have to disable this to get a correct base timing read. This is done by removing the SPOUT connector.
If you're going through hell, keep going

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<a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta
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