Guage Wiring... 99 Super Air

flyweed wrote: Congrats. It does sound like a horrible job, but it's not really that difficult once you dig into it.

It is that first time you contemplate cutting wires in that spaghetti looking mess behind the dash that seems too much to handle. Thanks to you guys on here I was able to get it done. Some smart folks on here for sure.

91NaughtyQ wrote: Re-wiring is complete. Any and every issue I had from the horn resetting perfect pass to my Nav lights causing incorrect volt and temp readings and all the annoying "chirps" when turning on blower, bilge etc.... is now resolved. I have avoided this for 4 seasons because of the perceived complexity of the job, but in the end it was pretty straight forward. Big thanks to all of you who provided input to help me out.

For the older boat it sounds like he added the additional positive wire in parallel with the existing wire between the 50 amp main breaker and the 20 amp ignition breaker. So if both wires are intact then a portion of the current will flow through each wire unless one opens then all the current will flow through the remaining wire. If there is a short in that path then you could see 50 amps on those wires before the main breaker opened but for normal operation the dash/ignition circuit was designed for 20 amps max. I wouldn't expect to see more than a few amps through each wire unless a failure occurred then the new connector would probably be the least of the problems. But you knew all that so what am I missing?

You are connecting to a 20 amp breaker and splitting the current through 2 wires. So worse case if one wire opens is 20 amps.

desertskier wrote: I don't have a picture but it looked something like this:2 Pin connector

Gary,
If you do use the connector, be very careful on the selection or amp capacity. You may be up into the pin and sleeve connector type. You may be better off just leaving some extra wire at the dash pod.

Correct, you don't need the connector.

I don't have a picture but it looked something like this:2 Pin connector

Thanks. I reread DesertSkier's post and that is exactly how he did it. Just got in off the water and two problems are cured from just adding the + wire. (Temp Gauge always reading high) and (low volts) I gained 2 volts on the volt meter. Hoping the grounds will take care of the chirps and other little aggravators.

Thanks again guys.

Gary

91NaughtyQ wrote: KENO wrote: That works for me, It's what Desertskier did. Hopefully you tied it back in at the upstream side of the 20 amp dash mounted ignition breaker like he did so that breaker is in the circuit too. I tied in right there Is this correct? Thanks to you and everyone else for all the info. Gary

I think so

That works for me, It's what Desertskier did.

Hopefully you tied it back in at the upstream side of the 20 amp dash mounted ignition breaker like he did so that breaker is in the circuit too.

If you try to tap into the existing harness, that will become the weak link in your new wiring.since the harness has smaller wiring that you'd be splicing into

Run the 2 wires back to the engine compartment and the ground can go to the engine right where the battery ground cable hooks up. as shown in Flyweed's picture

The positive could be attached to the output side of the main engine breaker so it's fuse protected like Desertskier did or alternately from any good 12 volt source back there and put a fuse in the line to protect it like others have mentioned.

Edit..............look at that me and Pete agreeing again   

8122pbrainard wrote: Gary, The hardest part is getting the wire up to the dash. Use the old to pull the new in. I'd run 8 ga. up there. I would go to the terminal block first and then go to the dash breakers. This eliminates the + daisy chaining too.

OKay so I went at this today and pretty much stopped immediately because what seemed to make sense on paper made absolute zero sense once I got into it. Can you help me with these questions-

my + and - go to the dash from the back via a harness - Where do I tap in for the HOT. In existing PIN slot and can you even do this?

New ground and terminal block - Do i just run it up after grouinding on engine and hook all NEG from the dash to it? If so what about existing ground coming from rear?

Don't know where to start with the dash daisy chain but assuming each - from each instrument would go to the block and no daisy chaining?

Anything I am missing?

Thanks for any help. The labor is the easy part, but the lack of understanding is stopping me.

Gary

Pete helped me a TON when I ran new ground and Hot (+) wire to my dash. I ran 10 gauge both black and red from the engine compartment up to the Dash. I fished it through and it wasn't very hard.
Also, the grounding block I used, it's stainless, with a plastic cover that goes over all of it.

Bus Bar


Pic of new Ground in engine compartment:


New Hot and Ground wire coming out behind dash:

Treybizttu wrote: 91NaughtyQ wrote: Nice thanks. Will any marine grounding block work or is there one you would recommend. Also, assuming 10ga wire for both going to the dash? I'm running 8GA from the battery and picked up a couple covered "Marine" Blue Sea Bus Bars.

Thanks.

91NaughtyQ wrote: Nice thanks. Will any marine grounding block work or is there one you would recommend. Also, assuming 10ga wire for both going to the dash?

I'm running 8GA from the battery and picked up a couple covered "Marine" Blue Sea Bus Bars.