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Something's burning

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    Posted: July-17-2019 at 12:02pm
Hola, already mentioned this in
another thread of mine , but figured this deserves its own thread.

I just changed the distributor, and belts, boat has been running fine. However, since changing those, there's always a smell of something burning, perhaps rubber. Can't find exactly what or where but it's somewhere near the distributor, near the belts, waterpump side. If my nose is right, at least ;)

I think that timing might be a little bit off; from what I read here it should be 5 degrees before TDC and the mechanic said he'd put it at 0 degrees.
Could timing being off a bit cause anything to heat up excessively..?

A friend suggested it could be the big (exhaust?) hose, from manifold to damper...
Since it started right when the distributor was changed I figured it had something to do with that, but perhaps just a coincidence and it is something else?
If that big hose, would that possibly the impeller going out? Was about to change that anyway, but what else to check?

Thanks!

Edit: engine temp stays fine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-17-2019 at 1:07pm
Is your belt slipping causing the burning smell? Look at your pulley's, if they are shined up looking like chrome finish where the belt runs you have a slipping belt. The pulley will also be hot to the touch while running if it is slipping.
They usually start to squeal but not until the belt glazes over and get hard from slipping.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote flyweed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-17-2019 at 3:43pm
feel the back of your raw water pump when running..if it's hot.....and you can't touch it..your Impeller is making the stink. Don't ask how I know.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRIP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-17-2019 at 3:49pm
How do you kn... Nevermind!

Going to check tomorrow, and impeller change was already planned. Hope that's it.
Cheers!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRIP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2019 at 1:56pm
It's definitely the exhaust hoses burning and smelling. Odd since engine temp stays fine!
Changed impeller, and port side is better now, starboard is still too hot to touch (not even 1 sec) and keeps burning.
Checked the hose from thermostat to manifold and a little rust came out, a bit or orange dirt stuck to the inside, but that didn't help making it any better.
T-stat housing probably has a gasket? Not sure if I'd be able to find locally... Or is it a common automotive part?
I tried getting the hose lose from manifold, not sure that's even possible without just cutting it open, so tight!

Any recommendations or tips..?!
Thanks!

Edit: btw the impeller that came out looked like new.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2019 at 2:28pm
You running in salt or brackish water?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRIP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2019 at 2:31pm
Nope. I do think a previous owner might have....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2019 at 3:19pm
There have been incidents where the exhaust hose getting older or overheated does not fit tight in the area that the arrow points to. The water just more or less runs out rather than spray's out. Wonder if that is whats going on? That might account for the engine temp being ok but smelling rubber

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRIP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2019 at 3:35pm
Hose is super tight around there. Tried to get it off but no way in h3ll!

Can I take both hoses from T-stat to manifolds off, run into buckets and run engine for like 2 seconds?    
If they're spewing out more or less the same amount of water, do the same thing at the end of the exhaust hoses, both sides?
That way I could see if there's an obstruction somewhere, and whether before manifold or inside it or riser?

T-stat housing does have a gasket, right? So can't pull that open yet to check inside.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2019 at 4:35pm
Originally posted by TRIP TRIP wrote:

Hose is super tight around there. Tried to get it off but no way in h3ll!

Can I take both hoses from T-stat to manifolds off, run into buckets and run engine for like 2 seconds?    
If they're spewing out more or less the same amount of water, do the same thing at the end of the exhaust hoses, both sides?
That way I could see if there's an obstruction somewhere, and whether before manifold or inside it or riser?

T-stat housing does have a gasket, right? So can't pull that open yet to check inside.

Sounds like a good plan to me as I suspect the hot riser is clogged with something probably rust.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2019 at 4:51pm
Originally posted by TRIP TRIP wrote:



Can I take both hoses from T-stat to manifolds off, run into buckets and run engine for like 2 seconds?    
If they're spewing out more or less the same amount of water, do the same thing at the end of the exhaust hoses, both sides?
That way I could see if there's an obstruction somewhere, and whether before manifold or inside it or riser?



Sander,
If you remove the hoses running to the manifolds and look for flow from each, I don't feel you will detect a restriction in the bad hot side manifold.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRIP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2019 at 5:26pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:


Sander,
If you remove the hoses running to the manifolds and look for flow from each, I don't feel you will detect a restriction in the bad hot side manifold.


No, but it would tell me if there's something stuck in the thermostat or hose possibly?
And then checking water coming out of both exhaust hoses would tell me if there's a restriction in manifold/riser/hose.
Is the idea. Or am I missing something?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2019 at 5:35pm
Originally posted by TRIP TRIP wrote:


but it would tell me if there's something stuck in the thermostat or hose possibly?
And then checking water coming out of both exhaust hoses would tell me if there's a restriction in manifold/riser/hose.
Is the idea. Or am I missing something?

Yes, it would tell you if somethings stuck in the T stat area. Then checking what's coming out of each exhaust hose would tell you if one of the manifolds is restricted. Water from the single cavity RWP will flow more to the least restricted side.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gt40KS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2019 at 11:06pm
Originally posted by gun-driver gun-driver wrote:

Originally posted by TRIP TRIP wrote:

Hose is super tight around there. Tried to get it off but no way in h3ll!

Can I take both hoses from T-stat to manifolds off, run into buckets and run engine for like 2 seconds?    
If they're spewing out more or less the same amount of water, do the same thing at the end of the exhaust hoses, both sides?
That way I could see if there's an obstruction somewhere, and whether before manifold or inside it or riser?

T-stat housing does have a gasket, right? So can't pull that open yet to check inside.

Sounds like a good plan to me as I suspect the hot riser is clogged with something probably rust.


+1 .....   when I pulled mine a couple years ago that is exactly what I found. I was told the boat hadn't ever seen salt water, but that much flakey, rusty chunks couldn't possibly come from fresh water. Can't remember which side was which but one side was at least 50% blocked and the other was at least 75.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRIP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2019 at 11:50pm
OK... think from what I read; when pulling risers the bolts are prone to breaking. Any tips on how to pull them?
Well first let's check tomorrow, but I fear this is what I'll end up having to do.

Thanks for your input all!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-23-2019 at 4:36am
First soak with a penetrating oil. Let it soak in for a few hours at least and overnight is better. I use a mix of ATF and Acetone which has been proven to break rust better than most anything at any cost. Automatic tranny fluid and Acetone mixed 50/50 is the bomb.
If you really want to get the stuff in where it can break things loose heat it and apply the mix while very hot it will suck the fluid into the threads helping break things loose. The longer it soaks in the better it works. Dont over heat and damage anything.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRIP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-23-2019 at 11:51am
Aight!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRIP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-23-2019 at 6:29pm
Well, did test output of hoses to both manifolds, and was the same both sides. So must be manifold and/or riser that's bad.
Tried to get the exhaust hose off on the bad side, sprayed some wd40 in between riser and hose. However: there's never enough space to move that hose enough to get it off, is there? And bending it isn't happening either. Do you have to get the muffler off to get the hose off?

On another note; saw a little drip coming from the RWP. There's only one gasket going in there, right? It's leaking on the other side of the metal plate, not where the impeller goes. Do I just have to tighten the bolts some more? Or did I forget to put another gasket in there..? Don't think I've ever put 2 in, as far as I recall...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-23-2019 at 7:30pm
I'm in the same boat too pardon the pun I have wondered how to get that hose off also. I know in my Mustang those aluminum HM manifolds are really easy to get off so I just pull them. I suspect the PCM's would be the same just heavier. My problem is that PCM used those carbon steel allen head screws they are quite rusty,I suspect yous are too which makes that much harder. If they would have used stainless it would be a quick job just to pull the manifold to get to the hose. Might be your only choice. I would avoid messing with the muffler any more than you need too,I would think it could be broken easily.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRIP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-23-2019 at 7:42pm
Cheers Gary! Indeed those screws don't look too fresh, so I'm not planning to take the manifold off unless I really have to. Guess taking the muffler off is the only other option.

Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

I would avoid messing with the muffler any more than you need too,I would think it could be broken easily.

Yeah exactly, I really don't want to start prying in there with a screw driver or so. Don't want to have to fix even more stuff!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRIP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-24-2019 at 1:13pm
Seems like the most common route is taking the riser off. I'd really like to not do that (yet) so I think I'll try to get the muffler off. Looked at it and also does not seem like a fun and easy job, but I'll give it a shot I guess.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mpost Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-25-2019 at 9:34am
When I pulled the hoses off my 98SN this winter, I used a hair dryer/heat gun to warm the hose up good so it is more flexible. Then Used a dull putty knife and a plastic spatula to do a little prying and spraying soapy water between the muffler and hose. Things were stuck pretty good but slow and easy it all came out fine without wrecking any fiberglass. Getting al the hoses loose makes in much easier to remove or install any one hose.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-25-2019 at 2:26pm
I will second the Hair dryer and warm soapy water with the putty knife. Can't do much better than that without taking more apart.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRIP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-28-2019 at 11:56pm
Pulled the drain plug on the manifold (why hadn't I done that any earlier?!) and quite a lot of dirt and little rust chunks came out. What's best way to flush/clean them, and risers? Without taking them off...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-29-2019 at 2:25am
My guess would be to hook a garden hose up to the water inlet on the manifold and turn it on, watch for clean water coming out the back. Whatever is going to flow out will do so right away. A garden hose will have close to 60 PSI normally. The extra pressure will move pieces out that might not normally. With the plug out can you reach in with a coat hanger wire bent into a small hook and pull out any or break up the large pieces?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRIP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-30-2019 at 1:24pm
Quite a bunch of dirt and rust came out, however hoses and risers are getting too hot to touch in less than 3 minutes of running the engine.
Time to order gaskets and screws, and take risers and manifolds off for a good cleaning. That's normally done in an acid-bath I think?

Also, after putting everything back together, water was leaking from both sides of the exhaust hose. Can't/don't want to tighten the clamps any more. Should some gasket-like material go in there? Didn't notice any when pulling them off.

Thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-30-2019 at 1:56pm
Time to order new hose. After 22 years someone got their monies worth. And yes a muratic acid bath would be fine but dont over do it on how long you have them in. You will know more once you get them off.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-30-2019 at 3:50pm
Just did this on my new to me 2000 Sport. After doing a bunch of service fuel, oil filters, plugs, impeller and a new heater core with a reroute (correct way) of the heater hoses, I did a 10 minute run on the bucket for a leak check.
Everything checked out good and as I put my hand on the left riser it was to hot to touch, right side was just slightly warm. DAM!!! knew what that meant... Torch for 2 of the 8 manifold bolts and same for the risers (long ones) one snapped. I was able to heat the manifold some of the 50-50 fluid and vice grips got the broken stud out.
Did the muratic acid in all the passages and poked around through the passages for rubber parts, none found.
I did find this


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRIP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-14-2019 at 12:14am
So how did it go for you gun-driver?

I'm puzzled: took risers and manifolds off. Didn't look all that bad, not very rusted. Cleaned them out with high pressure water, metal wire, and tie wraps (in on one side, out on other. Worked amazingly well!). Couldn't find muratic acid around here unfortunately but gave 'em a pretty good cleaning I feel.

Put boat back in the lake today, one hose stayed just warm, other got friggin' hot again while just idling with boat on trailer. :(
Decided to do a quick wakeboard set (15 min) to see what would happen after running some more and higher rpm's; when we were done both were just fine! Idled back to the dock, and now BOTH were way too hot again!

Again: engine temp stays perfectly fine.
Anyone can explain this?
T-stat? RWP? If one of those would be going bad, wouldn't engine be getting hot too?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-14-2019 at 3:45pm
Mine worked out fine Trip, had it at the lake all week. I still want to clean the other side and replace the burnt hose.
I am going to take a look at the thermostat as it idles at 160 but pulling a skier it drops to 130-40. I'm thinking the stat is either shot or stuck open.
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