Winterzing Question

Im not a proponent of using the engine to do the job, lots of variables to go awry, and waste.

First, and most critical. Drain each side of block, and each manifold, and the iron recirc elbow if you have one. Water is the enemy, so we remove the enemy. don't rely on any dilution scheme to save the engine.

loosen and drain low hoses near your raw water pump and tranny cooler

Buy 2 gal antifreeze and direct pour, first into block, then each manifold

No, the block drains are purposefully placed low on the block, just above the oil pan rail they are 1/4 NPT brass plugs, one each side.

You can fill the block from the gazzinta, on the thermostat housing, where the water is delivered from the raw water pump

Remove the hose on the tstat housing, and replace it with another piece of scrap hose to help direct your pour into the engine.

GottaSki wrote: The impeller will take on a set over the winter and some vanes will not spring back. The vanes returning create the low pressure for suction, bent over, they don't return, and don't pull water. The system will loose some efficiency. Given your power levels, lots of water flow would be best, so care of the pump is warrented Once option is to remove it from the housing for the winter and get some more life out of it. this also has the insurance of not leaving water in the pump, and risk the housing popping. its rare because the neoprene absorbs the expansion. That said, mercuiser plastic housings like to crack easy. But you wouldn't want to replace your raw water pump$

Good info to have thanks, trying to push this off as long as possible lol

GottaSki wrote: No, the block drains are purposefully placed low on the block, just above the oil pan rail they are 1/4 NPT brass plugs, one each side. You can fill the block from the gazzinta, on the thermostat housing, where the water is delivered from the raw water pump Remove the hose on the tstat housing, and replace it with another piece of scrap hose to help direct your pour into the engine.

Not familiar with gazzinta? I’m an old guy, what’s it mean?

Exactly, slang

the internet says made famous in Beverly Hillbillies, for math, gazintas, but I've seen it used in media earlier ...
like movie Halls of Montezuma, (1951) opening scene in the landing craft, marines discussing a small plumbing device he asked a guy to carry on him as they go ashore so they could make a still (er, booze) after things slowed down.

GottaSki wrote: The impeller will take on a set over the winter and some vanes will not spring back. The vanes returning create the low pressure for suction, bent over, they don't return, and don't pull water. The system will loose some efficiency. Given your power levels, lots of water flow would be best, so care of the pump is warrented Once option is to remove it from the housing for the winter and get some more life out of it. this also has the insurance of not leaving water in the pump, and risk the housing popping. its rare because the neoprene absorbs the expansion. That said, mercuiser plastic housings like to crack easy. But you wouldn't want to replace your raw water pump$

So how crucial is it to drain the manifolds? The plugs are frozen solid in there

RealDeez wrote: I would guess you can either try to drain them and risk breaking them or let them freeze and risk breaking them. Which set of dice would you like to roll? My guess is damage from forcible drain plug removal would be minimal and repairable. Freeze damage... not so much. I'm a noob though so definitely wait on a second opinion.

I pressed on the breaker bar with my leg and broke them lose haha

GottaSki wrote: No, the block drains are purposefully placed low on the block, just above the oil pan rail they are 1/4 NPT brass plugs, one each side.

I always add a little bearing grease / brake grease to the plug threads when I install them, it can help to prevent the threads in the block from rusting.

I replaced the 1/4" brass plugs with these (from McMaster-Carr):



JQ

Yup Pete....dems are da ones. I copied the wrong pix.

Steve,
What's the 70/30? Are you diluting? Typical non toxic RV antifreeze shouldn't be diluted. Sucking!!!!! AF is way more complicated than needed. Pour the AF in at the T stat hose. Fog, drain and pour. I've done a few 318's in 50 years!


So you can confirm all the points that need draining, here's a link to the Chrysler manual in the refference section.

Ken you left out the towing it south for the winter.......

Does anyone know of a marine engine manufacturer whos layup instructions utilize the AF suck up/pump through method? Most of the old ones like Interceptor, Chrysler, OMC, Gray, Chris, PCM, Waukesha, were drain only. I for years used the drain only and many still do. I laid up a Chris yesterday and only drained but with most of the old Hercules blocks hard piping prevents pouring .I could have pumped but why when draining has worked for over 70 years. The newer PCM manual in our reference section pictures drain and pour which I use when possible.

SteveZ wrote: Is it really important to remove the plugs and spray oil then turn over? If I get the T stat hose off and with most of the water out, isn't it not safe to run and fog and pour considering the engine would overheat? And where do I add antifreeze to the manifold? I can see some members rolling their eyes over my comments but I want to get this right and this site had the most info on correct crafts and 318's. I was also considering taking off the thermostat to ensure proper distribution.

What Pete is saying pretty much is like this

As a starting point the boat is in the water you've put your favorite brand of stabilizer in the gas tank, driven it around some to get the stabilized fuel into the carburetor and you're gonna put it on the trailer and winterize it

So you park it on the trailer, slowly put some fogging oil down the carburetor while it's running and when things get smoky out the exhaust you turn the boat off and the insides of the engine have a good coating of oil.

Now you can take the boat home and drain the water from the engine, the exhaust manifolds and the transmission cooler.

Put back in whatever plugs you pulled and hook up any hoses that you disconnected.

Now you can take off the thermostat cover and remove the thermostat and pour in your choice of antifreeze, whether it be automotive or RV antifreeze or boiler antifreeze

Some people will fill it to the top of the thermostat opening, some add a gallon or 2 to mix with any residual water that might be there.

And some will now be done and others might drain everything out again and leave the engine drained for the winter and any residual liquid that might be left in the system will be mixed with antifreeze and not do any damage

Now you have an engine that's fogged with oil, drained of water and has some antifreeze in it unless you drain it back out again as mentioned above.

Now the really important part for some people is to remove the raw water pump, take the impeller(s) out, put everything in a plastic bag and put it under your pillow for the winter where it will be nice and warm and cozy. I think Pete does this

I think that's kinda silly myself to have that lump under the pillow, so I put it in the nightstand next to the bed.

Like I said there are a million variations on winterizing, this is a fairly generalized version of one way that works up north and everybody will have something they do a little differently.

One thing to keep in mind is that if you drain the water out of the engine, manifolds and transmission cooler, it's hard to go wrong after that with whatever your choice is

Depending on area of the country, some people will drop the hose into a 5 gallon bucket of RV antifreeze and suck it through the engine without draining first. For some it works and for some it doesn't. You being in Massachusetts probably wouldn't want to take that chance

Get the water out first and then do that and you shouldn't have any problems

Minus 50 RV antifreeze will freeze at around 10 to 15 degrees above zero, but it doesn't expand enough to break pipes, engines etc till minus 50 as long as it's not diluted.

Diluting it can raise that burst temperature pretty dramatically.

If I fogged it through the carburetor I wouldn't worry too much about pulling the spark plugs and squirting some oil in each cylinder.

I have to go and check on my impeller and pump now   

Last winter, early spring a friend of mine found a deal at Tractor Supply on RV AF. We bought 4 cases (48 gal) for $1 a gallon. Should be set for a while.
I prefer the drain, suck up, drain method myself. Not a big fan of StaBil so I run the carb dry after siphoning the tank empty. Fog carb as it is dying. That is MY method, right or wrong. I'm sure this method will be questioned.