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part for "74 351 pleasure craft

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chessie View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chessie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: part for "74 351 pleasure craft
    Posted: October-07-2019 at 10:59am
I need some new part for 351
.    Rear main seal ( right hand rotation )
    Manifolds/Risers
    Drive plate

Thanks in Advance for any and all suggestions,
Ike
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mille1sj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2019 at 10:21am
Checkout Discount inboard Marine. Skidim.com.

They have a lot of parts for older PCM engines.

Search the forum for other recommendations of where to look as well. Some of the parts are getting harder to find and you may be looking for New Old Stock.
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Gary S View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2019 at 10:44am
Here is Kens link for a seal- link

Link for damper plate
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2019 at 10:52am
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

Here is Kens link for a seal- link

Link for damper plate


Don't follow Ken's link for the seal, That's for a 1 piece seal and your 74 would be a 2 piece

FelPro BS40042 works for a rear main seal for your 74. You have wick lines in the crankshaft and a smooth 2 piece seal like this works.
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Gary S View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2019 at 11:57am
Oops. But if it was me I’d have the block machined for a 1 piece anyway..... not a fan of the 2 piece ones.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2019 at 2:58pm
It is more than machining, you would also need a new Crankshaft to go full round.
I do not think it is feasible.
!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2019 at 3:56pm
Not what I have heard. Some cranks need to be machined to remove the slinger "ring" that some have,but not all do. The machinist doing the work would know
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2019 at 7:16pm
Did some reading as I am a Chevy guy and weak on the Fords.
On the 302 and 351W it is possible to convert the block to accept a one piece seal but you need the conversion done in a machine shop.
There is a Youtube video out there showing the necessary machine work.
The bare block needs to go into a line bore machine to have the new seal cut into the rear main cap. You are not going to do this in the boat or in your garage unless you have a machine shop.

The crankshaft for a 2 piece can be used in a one piece seal engine if you grind off the flange at the rear of the crankshaft or you can use a later one piece crankshaft.
Ford used the same diameter seal on one and two piece allowing the conversion.
GM did not, the GM one piece is a much larger diameter seal than the GM 2 piece.
!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2019 at 9:05pm
So what it really boils down to is

You can take your 2 piece seal block and crank and have the block machined for the 1 piece seal and use the original 2 piece seal crank without machining off the lip or slinger or flange or whatever you want to call it.

Or you can use any 1 piece seal crank in that old block that's been machined for a 1 piece seal.

But if you want to use a 2 piece seal crank in a later block that came from the factory with a 1 piece seal, you have to machine off the lip/slinger/flange so it'll fit in the block because the later 1 piece block and #5 bearing cap don't have the groove that the lip/slinger/flange would fit in.

And if you feel like it, you can use a 1 piece seal crank in a 2 piece seal block using the original 2 piece seal. You just won't have that lip/slinger/flange but it still works, you just won't have the wick lines on the crank to help with oil control at the seal.

That would be a smooth crank with a smooth seal or a rope seal

Gary has that rope seal on smooth crank setup (with a speedi sleeve) if I remember right, but he still has the lip.

It's all as clear as the Mississippi during flood season
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2019 at 9:16pm
Sounds like you have more options with the Ford than the Gm for sure.
Thanks Keno, it is now more clear than mud.
!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-12-2019 at 6:02am
FelPro makes the 2pc seal thing not scary,

"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-12-2019 at 7:06am
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

So what it really boils down to is
You can take your 2 piece seal block and crank and have the block machined for the 1 piece seal .


Like he's doing here?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-12-2019 at 7:09am
Originally posted by GottaSki GottaSki wrote:

FelPro makes the 2pc seal thing not scary,


Here's how it's done


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-12-2019 at 8:16am
After a detour through all this seal talk and machining etc, the easiest thing if your crank is in good shape is the 2 piece FelPro BS 40042 seal I mentioned earlier
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-12-2019 at 8:47am
I just don’t like them. If they were so great Ford would never have changed them.There is a fix, there must be a reason that it was developed and personally I’d take advantage of it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-12-2019 at 9:24am
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

I just don’t like them. .

I agree. Any gap in a seal is a potential leak. With a 2 piece, there are 2 gaps!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-12-2019 at 1:14pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

I just don’t like them. .

I agree. Any gap in a seal is a potential leak. With a 2 piece, there are 2 gaps!


That's an incredible display of brain power right there Pete

Does that mean that a 1 piece has 1 gap?

I figure that he now has all the info he needs to make up his own mind about what he might want to do, depending on things like his budget etc.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-12-2019 at 1:41pm
If you have a full round rear main on your engine and if it is a standard rotation you have the option to buy a Teflon Rear Main Seal.
The Teflon rear main seals are the bomb.   They take a special installation to avoid damaging them but once in you will never have a rear main leak. They tested to 1,000,000 miles on heavy duty diesel trucks. They are 3 times the cost but I like the never leak potential.   Don't try to install one without doing some good reading as they are unique.
A plastic protector comes with the seal and is used to slip the seal up and over the crankshaft on install. If you fail to use this the seal will be damaged and leak.
They also install clean and dry. No lube on the crank face at all. You do oil the outside diameter with light oil to help the outer seal slip into the block but no oil on the crankshaft seal face or the teflon seal.   Teflon will embed into the crank face when it rotates and you end up with teflon rubbing on teflon. They are threaded on the seal face so they will never work on a reverse rotation engine.   They have been out now since the late 1980's and are proven many times over.   351W part # from Fel Pro is BS40645, an existing groove on your crank from the factory seal will not affect a Teflon seal so no speedi sleeve is necessary.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-12-2019 at 4:18pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

I agree. Any gap in a seal is a potential leak. With a 2 piece, there are 2 gaps!


That's an incredible display of brain power right there Pete .

Thanks Ken. Yes, I tried to explain it in a manner I knew you could understand.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chessie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2019 at 9:37am
Gee, guys my head is spinning, I’m not even sure which end the main seal is on
Seriously I want to thank everyone for your suggestions and the one piece seal would probably be the best but this is going in my 20’ Southwind which is my second one and will be our Fl. Boat. So, I am going to stay with the two piece seal. I bought this boat for a part boat price or less, I know when it’s finished I’ll have more in it than it’s worth so not adding the cost to the machine the block. I just love old Southwind’s ! I have owned my other for 33 years and have done a lot of foot in’
Thanks again,
Ike


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2019 at 1:47pm
Well Chessie, glad to see you survived the "discussion".

Nobody ever mentioned places to buy the manifolds , but if you're looking for PCM, try SkiDim or E basic Power (same place Gary link for the damper plate)

With their discounts in the fall SkiDim might be a better price, maybe

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-14-2019 at 2:15am
My 1978 Nautique ran 1,500 hours with no rear seal leak. It had the standard 2 piece seal in it. They work fine but the newer stuff is a little better.
!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-14-2019 at 7:33am
Heh, which end is the red main seal on?
Is that like who's burried in Grant's tomb?

My first one lasted 37 years and was still dry, second one cost 15 bucks

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