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Chucky’s 1966 Mustang rebuild

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Chucky View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chucky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-19-2020 at 10:56pm
UPS delivered at 5:30 CST and I swapped it out with the help of my son in 1.5 hours. Maybe this weekend I’ll actually get something accomplished.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chucky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-20-2020 at 8:26pm
Purists, you may want to cover your eyes. I cut the dash today for a modern stereo. I would not have done that, had there not already been a hole. There was an existing hole for an outdated switch, I simply enlarged it. I also combined 2 smaller holes to enable my new 4 switch panel to be installed. Hope everybody is healthy.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chucky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-22-2020 at 12:42am
I’m struggling with my shifter. I edited this photo, hopefully you can read what I said...


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chucky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-22-2020 at 12:52am
Here’s a photo of mine. Like my note(s) said in the previous post...when my shift arm is in its neutral detent position, the shift cable attach arms are not square / perpendicular to the world / shifter body assembly. This causes a bias in the amount of “travel” in the arm(s). The arm on my transmission is symmetrically drilled for the spring loaded ball, therefore requiring an equal movement in either direction to engage forward or reverse. Kind of difficult to describe this....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chucky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-22-2020 at 12:58am
Here’s a shifter I found on EBay that looks like mine - notice the arms are not “square with the world”. Anybody know anything about the apparent 2 different “styles” of shifters? It seems some have bias built in and others are neutral and provide equal travel in either direction...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chucky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-22-2020 at 1:04am
Here’s another off of eBay. Although I think the shift linkage arms are installed in the wrong position and possibly the main shift arm is too...My main point is, noticed the arms are square with the world and perpendicular to each other. Mine are not and I think I wish they were. As a reminder - look back at the exploded parts view on my previous post, again the shift arms are square with the world in that picture.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-22-2020 at 9:25am
Chuck

The link below may help out, lots of pictures and a good description of what he (Storm34) did

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chucky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-22-2020 at 10:19am
I thought my unit was assembled incorrectly, but I have a new theory...maybe through use (and more often being placed in forward vs. reverse) the internal gear “wears out” and the spring ball lands in the wrong detent. There’s 3 detents according to the reference KENO sent. Here’s a picture from that link. Notice the 3 detents opposite of the teeth. I will be reporting back on this later today. I only “feel” one detent while moving my shifter and the arms are not “centered” when it’s in that position....

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chucky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-22-2020 at 11:00am
My theory isn’t quite true. I’m back to thinking there’s at least 2 designs. Here’s a picture of mine. Notice it only has 1 detent “slot”, but more importantly notice it is NOT 180 degrees across from the teeth. Like I said before, that causes more travel (from neutral) in one direction vs. the other on the shift arms. I’m nearly convinced this shifter is not for this boat.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-22-2020 at 5:51pm
Chucky

I have what you need, see the pictures below. Not the best pictures but you can see the three detents at the bottom opposite the gear teeth

It's used and it came from a Morse MV1 and has the right detents with the dimensions shown below.

It should slide right in and make it operate the way you want.

As payment, in light of what's happening in the world right now, I'll have to demand one roll of toilet paper (single ply is OK)

I have your address from before, so it'll be on the way soon





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chucky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-22-2020 at 7:46pm
And then the clouds parted and the sun shown through! I already have a flywheel collection, I didn’t want to start a shifter collection too.

Thanks!!!

PS / Also notice I’ve achieved ‘Senior’ status...it’s about damn time!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote zwoobah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2020 at 1:35pm
Can't quite make out which gauges you have in there, but if you don't have a fuel gauge I'd consider adding one now. I've run my Mustang out of fuel twice, finally added an electronic fuel gauge when I had the tank out this past fall.
The sending unit was about $50 and dropped right into the tank. I drilled the dash for a 2 1/8" gauge, moved the hour meter out of the instrument panel, and found a NOS Teleflex on ebay that matched my other gauges.

Gas gauge install
1968 Mustang 16 - 351W powered
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chucky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2020 at 10:16pm
Thanks zwoobah, I will consider your suggestion. I’ve had a few setbacks lately like flywheels, controls, and yesterday was carburetor issues. These things are to be expected. Tonight, I decided to install my new 50oz. balancer. The PO supplied a new balancer with the project, but it’s a 28oz. Please excuse the dirty pans, we’ve been cooking a lot at home lately.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chucky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2020 at 10:21pm
I lubed the seal and after 10 minutes at a medium boil, it nearly installed itself. I had the hammer and wood nearby, but never needed them. Torqued the bolt and headed back inside to do the dishes, and have a beer or two.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2020 at 11:24pm
Interesting, I haven't ever done a boil to fit like that. We've heated bearings in oil to install them before, but not solid steel like that. I have used a bit of heat with a torch, but obviously your method gets the whole part evenly heated.
'63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote zwoobah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2020 at 2:04am
That's a good trick. Did you find it cumbersome using a torque wrench with pot holders?
1968 Mustang 16 - 351W powered
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2020 at 8:59am
Chucky

Just thought I'd mention something that you probably already know but none of the multiple timing scales marked on that balancer will work since it's for a normal rotation engine and your's is , I guess you could say "bacerds rotating"

"bacerds" is an old CCF term by the way

But,,,,,,,,,,,when you check, one of the zero's will line up with your pointer at TDC and you can make your own marks, put a timing tape on backwards or use an advance type timing light.

PS The mailman should have something for you on Thursday
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chucky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-27-2020 at 11:51pm
Nothing from the postman yet (maybe current events have caused delays?)...I’m full steam ahead on a bunch of stuff that doesn’t photograph well.
-rocker arms adjusted and torqued
-valve covers final install
-firing order figured out and WRITTEN DOWN! (Geez there’s ALOT of firing orders out there / I fully confirmed mine by several (reverse) rotations of the engine.)
-distributor drive machined for reverse gear / gear installed + engine set at #1 TDC
-ordered the missing gaskets for carb rebuild (Summit Racing currently on my ‘*************** list’)
-started raw water pump rebuild
-lots of hardware “found” at my work
And...as a reply to the oven mit comment - check out the (welding) gloves I used to handle the hot balancer.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chucky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2020 at 12:25am
Makes me wonder...Was there any conflict between Correct Craft and Ford motor company over the “Mustang” name? Just curious...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2020 at 9:04am
Originally posted by Chucky Chucky wrote:

Nothing from the postman yet (maybe current events have caused delays?)..


USPS tracking says it's close and it'll be there today
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2020 at 9:31am
Originally posted by Chucky Chucky wrote:

Makes me wonder...Was there any conflict between Correct Craft and Ford motor company over the “Mustang” name? Just curious...


A blast from the past Chucky

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chucky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2020 at 10:11am
Thanks for the link! Interesting reading for sure... Now, how about identifying mystery part number....3? These came with the boat and I don’t really know what they are for? I’m guessing possible winterization parts? That’s an air fitting on the one (schrader / bicycle tube valve). #STUMPED

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2020 at 10:43am
I'd guess that the two rubber "no hubs" with the PVC adaptors were intended to fit the exhaust through hulls so anti freeze could be collected/recirculated. Way over complicated and time consuming. Drain water and pour the anti in.


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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2020 at 1:00pm
Or they could be block offs for pressure leak testing.
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chucky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-30-2020 at 11:40pm
Just what I was thinking / Thanks for the input. I’ve decided to install the wedge under the carb. I had to paint it to match, as it was the wrong shade of blue. Things are progressing nicely. The raw water pump is now assembled with all new parts and pulley alignment is looking excellent. I used a bit of “rubber safe” silicone lube inside the pump as opposed to liquid soap, because I’m not sure how long it’s going to sit and soap eventually dries up and turns gooey. I ended up using a hose clamp around the middle of the impeller to gently fold the rubber flappers over. That allowed it to easily fit partially inside the housing. Seemed to work pretty good. Once it was started, I removed the hose clamp and pushed it the rest of the way in.
Here’s a shot of the bearing that KENO identified previously in this thread. Thanks to Ken for that bit of info and his support in my quest to have a shifter that works.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chucky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-30-2020 at 11:49pm
The project came with one of these - should I install it? Do the pros outweigh the cons? I have no idea...Thoughts?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chucky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-02-2020 at 11:20pm
Foam earplugs make excellent “paint masking plugs”. I had them stuffed in at least a dozen holes on my engine, prior to painting. They are much better than odd chunks of masking tape rolled up into little balls. And significantly better than doing nothing at all. I’ve cleaned out a lot of paint from holes that someone should have done something to, prior to painting. They can even be cut shorter for those small holes (like 1/4”). Luckily I peaked in the oil pressure sensor hole and got the little wad out first.
THIS PHOTO FOR EXAMPLE ONLY - DO TRY THIS AT HOME!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chucky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-02-2020 at 11:31pm
Something beautiful happened with my shifter tonight, after the mailman (yeah, I said man ) delivered a little package from New Hampshire. Look Ma! My arms are straight now!!!! I’m still not sure, if this shifter was in this boat previously (and some clues tell me it was) how it ever worked properly. Rigging 101.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chucky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-02-2020 at 11:38pm
I had to redrill the 3/16” pin that passes through the trans engagement shaft. It needed to be “square” with the square head on the end of the shaft, as mine was not. Well, it is now and I’m only waiting on new brass cable ends to be able to proceed with rigging. The empty hole in the photo is the factory hole.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chucky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-02-2020 at 11:46pm
I could have flipped my gear over and cut new “centered slots” for the pin, but some super cool dude sent me a gear that was “ready to go” right out of the box. If this social distancing thing wasn’t going on, well....let’s not go down that road.

My gear is on the left / new gear is on the right.




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