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Need quick help on winterizing my new purchase.

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C_Heath View Drop Down
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    Posted: February-13-2020 at 7:45pm
2000 pro air nautique. Gt40 351. Boat came from a warm climate to me in NC Today. I tried the boat out about 2 hours ago and now I am home. Not too worried about tonight as the low is 35 but tomorrow night it’s 21. I have secured a place until spring for storage but it won’t be ready until the weekend. I’m just worried about. Freezing Friday and Saturday night. Can anyone lend me some info on the best way to get some antifreeze in it? What all plugged need to be pulled? I have plenty of antifreeze. And go!!!!!!!! Thanks in advance! #stressing
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-13-2020 at 7:59pm
Here's a video from SkiDim on winterizing a 351w

The most important thing is getting the water out and making sure no drains are plugged., before you get to putting the antifreeze in.

There are a whole bunch of ways to winterize, the method in the video works and you get a good visual set of instructions.

How's that for quick response?

Probably help if I attached the link, here it is below


link
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote C_Heath Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-13-2020 at 8:02pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

Here's a video from SkiDim on winterizing a 351w

The most important thing is getting the water out and making sure no drains are plugged., before you get to putting the antifreeze in.

There are a whole bunch of ways to winterize, the method in the video works and you get a good visual set of instructions.

How's that for quick response?


Pretty quick thanks. You got a link to that vid?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-13-2020 at 8:05pm
I was editing while you were asking, go back to the other post
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-13-2020 at 8:32pm
Is there electric power where the boat is? in a pinch, you can put a magnetic block heater on the block or oil pan. I did this several times when I lived in Houston. It worked for me when I didn't have time to remove water and do a proper winter lay-up. I used the Kat's magnetic heater - Part number 1155 or 1153.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote C_Heath Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-13-2020 at 8:33pm
Bam thanks. I just went back out. Was going to do the light bulb thing under the doghouse but the engine is still probably 100 degrees. I think I’m good tonight. I’ll watch the video and memorize the drain plugs and filler up with some Prestone tomorrow after work. Thanks again.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote C_Heath Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-13-2020 at 8:42pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

Here's a video from SkiDim on winterizing a 351w

The most important thing is getting the water out and making sure no drains are plugged., before you get to putting the antifreeze in.

There are a whole bunch of ways to winterize, the method in the video works and you get a good visual set of instructions.

How's that for quick response?

Outstanding!! Even tells me what tools to bring to the boat. I’ll have this son if a gun. Ready tomorrow before dark. Thanks again man. Great stuff!!!!
Probably help if I attached the link, here it is below


link
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samudj01 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-13-2020 at 10:05pm
Not prestone. You want rv antifreeze. Pink stuff at Walmart and auto parts stores. Cheap. Like $4 a gallon or something. Not harmful to the environment when you fire it up come April. Also, while I am not an expert I have heard a rule of thumb is 24 degrees for 24 hrs to crack a block. I dont take that chance. In nc I winterize in oct or nov and pop back in the water in april.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-13-2020 at 10:07pm
Originally posted by samudj01 samudj01 wrote:

while I am not an expert I have heard a rule of thumb is 24 degrees for 24 hrs to crack a block.

Longer, more like 48 hours but, draining is the safe way.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-13-2020 at 10:09pm
Originally posted by Jonny Quest Jonny Quest wrote:

Is there electric power where the boat is? in a pinch, you can put a magnetic block heater on the block or oil pan. I did this several times when I lived in Houston. It worked for me when I didn't have time to remove water and do a proper winter lay-up. I used the Kat's magnetic heater - Part number 1155 or 1153.

JQ

The watt density of the magnetic oil pan heaters is high so, you will end up burning the oil way before you get any heat way up to the water jackets.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote C_Heath Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-13-2020 at 10:22pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by samudj01 samudj01 wrote:

while I am not an expert I have heard a rule of thumb is 24 degrees for 24 hrs to crack a block.

Longer, more like 48 hours but, draining is the safe way.


I’m not taking a chance. This is a super high dollar boat for me. I have twins in a private college and it makes one poor lol. It will be done before sunset tomorrow. Thanks for all the help guys.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-13-2020 at 10:54pm
Pretty sure I put the magnetic heater on the block and not on the oil pan. Good catch, Pete.

The heater did keep everything fairly warm inside a closed engine cover.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2020 at 7:00am
Originally posted by Jonny Quest Jonny Quest wrote:


The heater did keep everything fairly warm inside a closed engine cover.
JQ

The sound insulation inside the engine hatch is also a great thermal insulator so yes, it stays warm for a pretty long time. Also the reason in many cases a simple incandescent bulb will do the job. Don't use one of the new LED's!   


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NCH20SKIER Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2020 at 7:30am
If I am done for the season it is drain and the RV antifreeze. If not done and skiing throughout the cold months it is two drop lights lying in the bilge.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2020 at 8:49am
So........... since we seem to talk a lot about USCG/marine approved starters, alternators, carburetors, fuel line etc and how they help to minimize the chance of an explosion, why do people do things like put light bulbs, heaters etc that aren't USCG/marine approved in the enclosed bilge area?   

Must be a money saving thing since the approved stuff is expensive or maybe "they don't know what they're talking about" or maybe " slim chance of that happening to me"

Plenty of people seem to do it

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2020 at 9:30am
I have the 200 watt kats magnetic heater. It works great. I tested it on a junk short block (on the block not oil pan) in my driveway (no motor box) and it kept all areas of the block in the mid 30s while the ambient temp was in the low teens. It did burn the paint locally.

I have 2 now so I’m going to try to use a cloth or something in between to actually lower the local temp and use one on each side next time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2020 at 9:34am
If it's going to go below freezing, why not just drain the block? It takes 5 minutes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2020 at 9:48am
Beacuse boating
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 75 Tique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2020 at 10:11am
Originally posted by Riley Riley wrote:

If it's going to go below freezing, why not just drain the block? It takes 5 minutes.


Especially here in NC, where we dont have long, hard freeze, 6 month layups and a chance to use our boats all year when conditions cooperate. I probably have it comfortably under 5 minutes with these additions, tho I still have one hose to take off, on the bottom end of the tranny cooler.



I suppose I could have gone to skidim and paid $135 for these, but I think I accomplished the same thing for $15-$20.



(HW, I did that so I could save money to buy some new equipment)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote C_Heath Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2020 at 10:31am
Originally posted by 75 Tique 75 Tique wrote:

Originally posted by Riley Riley wrote:

If it's going to go below freezing, why not just drain the block? It takes 5 minutes.


Especially here in NC, where we dont have long, hard freeze, 6 month layups and a chance to use our boats all year when conditions cooperate. I probably have it comfortably under 5 minutes with these additions, tho I still have one hose to take off, on the bottom end of the tranny cooler.



I suppose I could have gone to skidim and paid $135 for these, but I think I accomplished the same thing for $15-$20.



(HW, I did that so I could save money to buy some new equipment)


Good stuff is that on nautique parts?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote NCH20SKIER Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2020 at 10:39am
Most any auto parts store. No need for marine rated............
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 75 Tique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2020 at 10:44am
As greg said, the set I used came from hardware store (or auto parts store). If you like to spend, the catalogue cut is from SKIDIM.

http://www.skidim.com/searchprods.asp Search "drains"

Where in NC are you?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2020 at 11:03am
Those small quick drains on the large exh manifold plugs make me nervous.. seems I’m always getting large scale out of cast iron manifolds. Probe carefully every time. Mcmaster sells nicer all-brass versions of the quick drains... solid handles that are easier on (cold) fingers and they don’t rust.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 75 Tique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2020 at 11:16am
I hear ya tim, had the same concerns. Especially since you cant probe them (the inlets on the stem are on the sides, not the end of the stem) The tique had heftier drains in the block that you could probe or even pull the stem all the way out. I went for these for now, either to upgrade later or just remove once a year to clean out behind. So far they flow nicely when opened, so, so far so good.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2020 at 11:21am
FYI the mcmaster version comes all the way out so you can probe. Even if they flow well, it doesn’t take much to block the opening. Even the block drains with fully removed plugs seem to stop up pretty regularly (often half way through the drain so it is far from obvious).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote beretta5spd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2020 at 12:29pm
I was losing my mind when I seen the three small plugs in the picture above. I was trying to think of where the third plug in the block went. Phew..... took my a couple minutes to realize it’s the water pump drain plug hahaha
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote C_Heath Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2020 at 12:57pm
Originally posted by 75 Tique 75 Tique wrote:

As greg said, the set I used came from hardware store (or auto parts store). If you like to spend, the catalogue cut is from SKIDIM.

http://www.skidim.com/searchprods.asp Search "drains"

Where in NC are you?



Lake Norman
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2020 at 1:49pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

FYI the mcmaster version comes all the way out so you can probe. Even if they flow well, it doesn’t take much to block the opening. Even the block drains with fully removed plugs seem to stop up pretty regularly .

Yes, probing with a wire is always recommended.

Here's the removable stem drain cock so you can probe.



I wouldn't bother with the non removable stem type since you will end up having to removed them anyway to get a wire through.

The McMaster removable type are available up to a 3/8" NPT so bushings are needed on some manifolds.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2020 at 2:03pm
Those don’t look like pipe threads
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