GT40 takes longer to start when warm

Went out yesterday, ran great all day except when we stop and float for a while. When I go to fire it back up it may take 5-10 seconds to fire. It always fired, spun over fast just took longer. Maybe a timing issue?

New Items in March 2020
HP fuel pump
Fuel filter
Air Filter
Plugs
Wires
Rotor cap and button looked brand new so I didnt change it
impeller
oil
coil
oil filter
water strainer
transmission fluid
Anti-syphon Valve

Since you have changed all that it might be worth your time to work on the LP pump as well first. Might want to get your hands on a fuel pressure gauge as well. Just curious you have changed the rotor,cap and button. Whats a button?

KENO wrote: C_Heath wrote: Went out yesterday, ran great all day except when we stop and float for a while. When I go to fire it back up it may take 5-10 seconds to fire. It always fired, spun over fast just took longer. Maybe a timing issue? New Items in March 2020 HP fuel pump Fuel filter Air Filter Plugs Wires Rotor cap and button looked brand new so I didnt change it impeller oil coil oil filter water strainer transmission fluid Anti-syphon Valve Sounds like one or more leaky injectors or a leaky fuel pressure regulator putting some extra fuel into the engine while it's off. Probably fires right up when the engine is cold and if you're using the boat and you turn it off for a short time it fires right back up cause it hasn't leaked enough in to flood the engine yet. Let it sit for a longer time like 63 skier said and it's getting flooded and that gives the long crank time. The amount of leakage affects the times obviously

I’ll agree with Keno. But do Check timing first. Seems like this becomes a common issue on GT40’s

I knew what you meant just kidding you. Never heard the term until Planet Nautique maybe it's a regional thing?

Gary, is that the pre fuel canister fuel pump?

Orlando76 wrote: KENO wrote: C_Heath wrote: Went out yesterday, ran great all day except when we stop and float for a while. When I go to fire it back up it may take 5-10 seconds to fire. It always fired, spun over fast just took longer. Maybe a timing issue? New Items in March 2020 HP fuel pump Fuel filter Air Filter Plugs Wires Rotor cap and button looked brand new so I didnt change it impeller oil coil oil filter water strainer transmission fluid Anti-syphon Valve Sounds like one or more leaky injectors or a leaky fuel pressure regulator putting some extra fuel into the engine while it's off. Probably fires right up when the engine is cold and if you're using the boat and you turn it off for a short time it fires right back up cause it hasn't leaked enough in to flood the engine yet. Let it sit for a longer time like 63 skier said and it's getting flooded and that gives the long crank time. The amount of leakage affects the times obviously I’ll agree with Keno. But do Check timing first. Seems like this becomes a common issue on GT40’s

You know I thought about replacing the injectors because of their age. From the little research I did, they weren't that expensive. I could be wrong tho.

gun-driver wrote: A simple fuel pressure gauge will tell you if they're leaking.

just looked at the injector prices again. I retract that last statement about them lol.

thanks, ill look into a manual gauge to check it

I’d say my longest crank was 5 seconds. It’s just a pain in my behind. I spent a load on it on maintenance in March so I want it to be right. Not to mention everyone in the boat looking at me with big eyes while it’s spinning over. I hate that. I’ve got a fuel pressure checker on the way. I may go ahead and put a new LP fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator on it anyhow. If the pressure is ok and all that’s been done the only thing left will be the injectors leaking.

Yea they are but I don't have the Ford part number on me maybe Ken can find it. Some times you can find oem ones on ebay reasonably

Yes the auto regulator is the same off the top of my head. I believe this is it
Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): CM4643, CM4664, F2LE9C968EA, F4CE9C968AA, F4CZ9C968A
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=382279&cc=1106064&jsn=605&_nck=ZExt1ysfqhqWnq%2BEvUNdS3Txyey60IDtnjPWF5UU9J0BWQv7pvqZbkEUk86%2BAYIh3BPX4eQfsOii%2B3W9wETc7vH6sYSQ61E%2BEo5v1aDvJ0g0u2LZZIP75Qs2l6Yzcd2bt4naVWOOLJkoQeC32%2B%2B8ZWkYrgIbFUwwXN%2Ft3x%2FK69eHsFOoS%2FpnkPGCA8aQlc1iNmC1tIKZvKv261IVgfHujL8pTOcNdJDPLw1b10b3F2WujJrg4repCllBQpKUHK%2B%2B%2FE02jBn3L9hg4H4ZFXszFgBL6jolYbBaT7czNndBPMKcFEJgD6OK5oEMdluC6pYxszFzPJF%2B4IBXm9470%2F41aXS70ohudflU

And just incase Pete wants to pick one up
https://www.autozone.com/fuel-delivery/fuel-pressure-regulator/gp-sorensen-fuel-pressure-regulator-800-127/79674_594834_0?fromString=search&make=Ford&model=&year=

With the pressure gauge you need to check to see if it holds pressure for the appropriate amount of time after shutting down hot

Pick one of these up while you’re there.
https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/fuel-pressure-tester/innova-fuel-injection-pressure-tester/273356_0_0

C_Heath wrote: Got it today thanks!!! I’ll figure this baby out. Lol

Section 3H1 of the gt40 manual in the link is a good starting point for fuel pressure testing

link

gun-driver wrote: C_Heath wrote: New Items in March 2020 HP fuel pump Air Filter Plugs Wires Rotor cap and button looked brand new so I didnt change it impeller coil water strainer Anti-syphon Valve Is there a reason all these were changed, or was this all done because of the long crank when hot issue?

I just bought the boat in feb of this year. I wanted to do these items just so I knew that they had been done. I plan on keeping it for a while. It has 605 hours on it and yes maybe some of the items I replaced didn’t need it but I’d rather spend the money on it knowing that it’s Been done. The previous owner is awesome. Still works with my questions when I need him. He did tell me about the long starts when warm. Said it drove him nuts but it never left him stranded so he just let it roll. Well, it bugs me and I’ll find it. I still would like to do a LP fuel pump $80 and a fuel pressure regulator also $80 and maybe a TFI module. As soon as it warms up I’ll do a fuel pressure test and leak down to see where I stand.

gun-driver wrote: Gotcha If you don't want those old used parts cluttering up the garage, I certainly know of a place where you could send them.

Ouch. I trashed most of it. at least the strainer was bent all to crap, the old HP fuel pump I trashed but I kept the old wires and trashed the impeller.

Fuel pressure is the best place to start after you have confirmed spark. One quick simple check is can you hear the fuel pumps prime when you turn the key to on position before you crank the engine. Adding a fuel pressure gauge to GT40 tool kit is the best $45 you will spend