Fuel Pump

Pics and more info would be good. The mark IV to gen5 transition happened 90-91 on the auto side but I’ve seen some later mark IV PCM’s.

Gen5 block has no provision for a mechanical fuel pump and uses electric instead. Let’s see what you’ve got.

Did you try SkiDIM?

https://www.skidim.com/mobile/prodinfo.asp?number=97843

How did you determine that you need to replace your pump?

I’d be checking that there is gas in the tank and the fuel pickup tube is functional.

Is there fuel in the overflow line of the pump indicating a ruptured diaphragm? When was it last running ok?

How are you checking that fuel isn’t getting to the carb?

If there’s fuel in the inlet side and getting nothing to the carb then I’d replace it... would be good to confirm you have a mark IV block but it’s likely you do.

Yes... a few pics from different angles would be best. Also grab the casting number of the block (bear bell housing).

KENO - believe it or not, under direction from a buddy of mine and against my better judgement, we tried that. As soon as the poured in gas was consumed, it died instantly. We tried that 4 times. After the same results each time, that’s when we checked the front and rear fuel compartments on the carb, they were bone dry.

If the one on Skidim is the correct one, for $108, to me, it’s easier to replace then rebuild.

hdfooter wrote: Fellas, I’m not sure how to attach pics.

If you are on a mobile device, then it's not easy. If so, the easy way is to forward the picture to a laptop. Then using the post reply or by clicking on the full reply editor icon, look for the icon of a tree with the up arrow. Clicking it will bring up a browse box that allows you to select the picture.

Here's a picture of an 89 454 PCM fuel pump for comparison.   

Inlet is at 5 o'clock position, Outlet is at 6 o'clock position

Ruptured diaphragm overflow tube is on other side but that's not a problem.

Thanks for all the input from all of you. I haven’t been able to upload pics yet. If I get time today I’ll try and get on the computer and do it so you all can see. My pic of the fuel pump looks just like the pic KENO posted with the inlet at 5 o’clock and outlet at 6 o’clock. Looks like I’ll just need to reroute the lines in and out, or do you guys think I’ll need to replace the lines with longer lines to ensure any length of line issues?

Again, thank you all for your input and insight, much appreciated.

hdfooter wrote: My pic of the fuel pump looks just like the pic KENO posted with the inlet at 5 o’clock and outlet at 6 o’clock. Looks like I’ll just need to reroute the lines in and out, or do you guys think I’ll need to replace the lines with longer lines to ensure any length of line issues? .

If the pump you get is screwed together, then you can clock the inlet/outlet.

8122pbrainard wrote: [QUOTE=hdfooter] If the pump you get is screwed together, then you can clock the inlet/outlet.

I bought a replacement Carter pump for the Mustang while I rebuilt the original and while screwed together you could not change it. Cannot recall specifics but it could not be done. I ended up getting a longer inlet hose

8122pbrainard wrote: hdfooter wrote: My pic of the fuel pump looks just like the pic KENO posted with the inlet at 5 o’clock and outlet at 6 o’clock. Looks like I’ll just need to reroute the lines in and out, or do you guys think I’ll need to replace the lines with longer lines to ensure any length of line issues? . If the pump you get is screwed together, then you can clock the inlet/outlet.

You can clock the pump but whatever way you clock it you'll always have the same 60 degree difference between your inlet and outlet on the new pump. (difference between 9 o'clock and 7 o'clock position in degrees) The old pump has a 30 degree difference that can't be changed (difference between 6 o'clock and 5 o'clock position in degrees.

You can't change the way the lower housing with the inlet connection bolts to the valve body section with the outlet connection. It can only bolt together one way and still have the pump work.

So........you can clock both together, but you can't clock them independently of each other to make the new one the same as the old one

TRBenj wrote: Like you mentioned, the outlet (hard line) is really the only concerning piece... the orientation of the inlet (soft hose) should be relatively inconsequential.

Correct so, a 30 degree difference should not be a big problem like Ken is all worked up about. Also per that picture he posted, it looks like he plumbs everything with rubber hose anyway so clocking isn't needed.