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Still Happy with your Protec Conversion?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nauti Gator Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2020 at 12:49am
With my old Protec set up I was using cheap copper Autolite 104 plugs @.040 or .045 gap (can't remember). I believe that was the closest cross reference to the original plug which has been superseded several times . Looks like I'll now switch to Autolite AP104 platinum plug with a .055 gap.

Performance Distributors says
"In most applications, we recommend using Autolite Platinum Spark Plugs. These plugs have worked very well with our Distributors and Firepower Ignition Kits. You should retain the same heat range your engine calls for but open the spark plug gaps to the recommended setting as set forth by the distributor or ignition kit instructions"

Sound reasonable?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1TAZZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2020 at 9:30am
So if grounding to the battery is not a good ideal , do any of you have any suggestions as to what is causing the module to fail . I have been using the good modules from DUI. The coil was checked and is good . My install was done following the J-PASS write up and the boat was running great . Man I thought had this problem behind me . Funny thing my boat must not like 4th of July , it broke down same week last year. My boat only has 394 hours the guy i bought it never used it much , i am thinking some of my troubles are because it was not used much. Looks like low hours may be worse than a boat that has been used with many hours on it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2020 at 9:53am
You could do a ground from the distributor housing to the block, but you really shouldn't have to.

Did you use thermal paste on the back of the replacement module when you installed it?

If not, it's a good way to cook a module
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1TAZZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2020 at 11:54am
Yes I have been using the grease that comes with it. I keep asking myself could I have got two bad modules. Going to NAPA today and try one of their Modules, I was told that the Echelin brand work well . $43 bucks and I don't have to get it shipped .
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2020 at 12:55pm
Sure that's the right one? It shows 103 when I look it up. Supposedly it's TP33 The Ford number is/was F1PZ-12A297-A
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2020 at 2:09pm
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

Sure that's the right one? It shows 103 when I look it up. Supposedly it's TP33 The Ford number is/was F1PZ-12A297-A


Sure you're in the right thread Gary?

He's looking for a GM HEI module for his DUI, not something for a gt40.

I'd try the AC Delco D1906 which seems to have a great reputation for reliability or get the NAPA/ Echlin cross reference to that at NAPA like you're talking about. NAPA/Echlin TP45

You can get arguments about how much performance difference there will be between that and the DUI Dyna Mod module.

Let your butt dyno and your paddling arm decide what's better for you   

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nauti Gator Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2020 at 2:13pm
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

Sure that's the right one? It shows 103 when I look it up. Supposedly it's TP33 The Ford number is/was F1PZ-12A297-A


In my manual it said AWSF22 as original - after researching like crazy it looked like most people were using the Autolite 764 plug - and Autolite now superseded the 764 to the 104.
The 103 and 104 are the exact same spec plug dimensions except the 104 is slightly hotter.
I guess I'll run it and take a look at the plug color after the DUI install.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2020 at 2:23pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

Sure that's the right one? It shows 103 when I look it up. Supposedly it's TP33 The Ford number is/was F1PZ-12A297-A


Sure you're in the right thread Gary?


Yea Duh! I think it was the paste thing Not thinking at all this am.Just one of the joys of not having to be anywhere or do anything.....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nauti Gator Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2020 at 3:26pm


Feels like Christmas! Going to do the install this afternoon.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2020 at 3:41pm
Could you snap a picture of that distributor standing on it's head?

or in other words, a picture of the bottom of the housing

And while I'm at it, how about a good side shot of the gear and the shaft above it

Thanks and Merry Christmas
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2020 at 5:30pm
Originally posted by 1TAZZ 1TAZZ wrote:

Yes I have been using the grease that comes with it. I keep asking myself could I have got two bad modules. Going to NAPA today and try one of their Modules, I was told that the Echelin brand work well . $43 bucks and I don't have to get it shipped .


Have you measured the input voltage at the distributor? I sent an email to Performance some time ago and asked what problems low input voltage would cause and they said just bad performance but who knows maybe it degrades the module. I think it's worth checking if you haven't already.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nauti Gator Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-03-2020 at 10:43am
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

Could you snap a picture of that distributor standing on it's head?

or in other words, a picture of the bottom of the housing

And while I'm at it, how about a good side shot of the gear and the shaft above it

Thanks and Merry Christmas


Sorry Keno - I didn't see your post until after I did the install.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nauti Gator Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-03-2020 at 11:00am
First comment about the new DUI is just wow! Its incredibly smooth. Set initial timing to 10 degrees and then saw a total of 31 degrees at 3000 RPM.   It takes longer to clean up the old wiring harness than doing the install. Only glitch I had was first connecting the DUI 12v supply to the starter solenoid - the engine would start then shut off in about 2-3 seconds - finally figured that out - the 12v supply needed to be the other bolt on the relay which is the ignition - 12v while ignition is on.   

At this point If you are even considering an ignition change I wouldn't hesitate to get the DUI. The real test will be how she runs in the water the next 3 days.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-03-2020 at 1:13pm
Originally posted by Nauti Gator Nauti Gator wrote:

First comment about the new DUI is just wow! Its incredibly smooth. Set initial timing to 10 degrees and then saw a total of 31 degrees at 3000 RPM.   It takes longer to clean up the old wiring harness than doing the install. Only glitch I had was first connecting the DUI 12v supply to the starter solenoid - the engine would start then shut off in about 2-3 seconds - finally figured that out - the 12v supply needed to be the other bolt on the relay which is the ignition - 12v while ignition is on.   

At this point If you are even considering an ignition change I wouldn't hesitate to get the DUI. The real test will be how she runs in the water the next 3 days.   


Ignition voltage at the starter solenoid?? It only has battery voltage and the starting circuit voltage.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-03-2020 at 3:00pm
Oh No..............it's the "I" terminal discussion back again

The diagram below of a ProTec system will show where the "I" terminal voltage comes from when the key is in RUN

t's physically impossible for the power to come from within the solenoid except when the key is in START.

In RUN there's no power to the "I" terminal from within but if you look at wire number 42 with the fusible link in it, when the key is in RUN there's power from the 12.5 amp breaker and if you hook your ignition supply to that you have power.

The real function of that wire is to provide maximum voltage during starting (in parallel with the supply from the key, but with no diode or anything in that wire it keeps the "I" terminal powered and is a convenient spot to grab 12 volt power from.

In RUN the power comes from the key through the 8 pin connector (wire #28) which ties into wire #41 which supplies the 12.5 amp breaker which then supplies the coil packs through wire #26.

So...........depending on how much of the Protec wiring you remove, you can have power coming to the "I" terminal externally with the key in RUN.

This might be as clear as mud and the diagram makes you about half blind following some of those wires, but that's how to have power on the "I" terminal to supply the ignition system in RUN.

.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-03-2020 at 3:04pm
By the way, all you guys getting less than the advertised 24 degrees mechanical advance out of your DUI distributor should call and complain about their false advertising and see what they have to say

You might think about timing light accuracy too depending on what you're using
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-03-2020 at 4:40pm
Exactly. Just don't disconnect the fusible link. And now you are connected to the unprotected side of the 13.5 breaker so it's basically doing nothing. The 20 amp ignition breaker is still protecting it so no big deal except you could fry the harness wiring instead of just popping the 13.5 breaker.

edit: I guess the fusible link is still protecting it but that is just a weird way to connect it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1TAZZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-05-2020 at 8:18pm
Update on DUI trouble so I installed the new module and boat would still not run right. So walked back to my shop and opened the hood of my wife's 1980 corvette and pulled ignition coil just to see if coil was bad. I installed The old GM coil and the boat started right up. It ran great all weekend. I will be calling DUI Monday looking for a replacement coil. I think it must have be the coil the whole time. She don"t know i parted out her car yet LOL.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-05-2020 at 8:29pm
Originally posted by 1TAZZ 1TAZZ wrote:

Update on DUI trouble so I installed the new module and boat would still not run right. So walked back to my shop and opened the hood of my wife's 1980 corvette and pulled ignition coil just to see if coil was bad. I installed The old GM coil and the boat started right up. It ran great all weekend. I will be calling DUI Monday looking for a replacement coil. I think it must have be the coil the whole time. She don"t know i parted out her car yet LOL.


Just put the bad coil in her car and let her figure out that it won't start   

Then you can "troubleshoot" and tell her it's a bad coil and be her hero.

Then buy another AC Delco coil if they won't send you a freebie
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1TAZZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-05-2020 at 9:27pm
That sounds like a plan.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nauti Gator Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-06-2020 at 12:10am
Originally posted by desertskier desertskier wrote:


Ignition voltage at the starter solenoid?? It only has battery voltage and the starting circuit voltage.




I should have said Relay and not Starter Solenoid.

She ran great over the last 3 days. - It sounds like I should go back and definitely change a couple things after reading your and Keno's posts. I picked up the 12v to power the distributor from the Relay. It must have been the "S" terminal.       I verified no voltage when key is off. 12v when key is on.   I guess I really should move my distributor 12v power source to the 12.5 breaker and not from the Relay directly.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-06-2020 at 3:57am
I have used dial back timing lights for years to check total timing, initial plus mechanical advance.   It is a very accurate method for checking. Professional shops use the dial back timing lights to verify exact timing.   I think Tim shared valuable information for the users of DUI systems.   I would double check any distributor I run, new or factory to verify total timing before I trusted it.
The old Sun Distributor Machines are excellent tools and I wish I had one but even after using it to dial the distributor perfectly in to your desired advance curve someone still needs to install it and verify the timing before running it..   Exact timing is the best way to add power without damage.   Guessing or timing by ear is a great way to burn a piston.   If your timing light is not accurate, step up and get a better one.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-06-2020 at 8:53am
Originally posted by Nauti Gator Nauti Gator wrote:



She ran great over the last 3 days.


Read your quote 3 times slowly and maybe you'll decide to change nothing

It works and it has overcurrent protection now, but you could move the supply to the output of the 12.5 amp breaker ( it must be sitting there kinda lonely supplying nothing since it only fed the old coil packs and nothing else.)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-06-2020 at 11:08am
The original wiring had the starting circuit separated from the ignition circuit by the fusible link. You have the distributor connected to the starting circuit. Your distributor is not protected from a short in the starting relay etc... Would probably never happen but I would move it back to the original configuration.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nauti Gator Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-06-2020 at 1:17pm
Originally posted by desertskier desertskier wrote:

The original wiring had the starting circuit separated from the ignition circuit by the fusible link. You have the distributor connected to the starting circuit. Your distributor is not protected from a short in the starting relay etc... Would probably never happen but I would move it back to the original configuration.


Sounds like good advice
Thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nauti Gator Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-06-2020 at 1:38pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

By the way, all you guys getting less than the advertised 24 degrees mechanical advance out of your DUI distributor should call and complain about their false advertising and see what they have to say

You might think about timing light accuracy too depending on what you're using


I've been using a Craftsman induction timing light for prob the last 10 years - may not be the most accurate.

Also, I just noticed in my old PCM Quick Reference Guide is says "Ignition Timing of all PRO-TEC and PTI Engines Must Be Set at 3600 RPM"

Then in the notes section of the PCM manual it says "The timing at 4,000 RPM should never exceed 30 degrees BTDC, in engines equipped with ignition points, to ensure reliability and performance with 89 octane fuel"

I tested the timing at 3000 RPM and got 30-31 degrees. I can recheck at 3600 and see if there is any more timing coming in.

Granted I don't have points but now without any knock sensor in the system maybe a total 30-31 degrees is a good safe limit.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-06-2020 at 3:11pm
Originally posted by Nauti Gator Nauti Gator wrote:

Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

By the way, all you guys getting less than the advertised 24 degrees mechanical advance out of your DUI distributor should call and complain about their false advertising and see what they have to say

You might think about timing light accuracy too depending on what you're using


I've been using a Craftsman induction timing light for prob the last 10 years - may not be the most accurate.

Also, I just noticed in my old PCM Quick Reference Guide is says "Ignition Timing of all PRO-TEC and PTI Engines Must Be Set at 3600 RPM"

Then in the notes section of the PCM manual it says "The timing at 4,000 RPM should never exceed 30 degrees BTDC, in engines equipped with ignition points, to ensure reliability and performance with 89 octane fuel"

I tested the timing at 3000 RPM and got 30-31 degrees. I can recheck at 3600 and see if there is any more timing coming in.

Granted I don't have points but now without any knock sensor in the system maybe a total 30-31 degrees is a good safe limit.



Nothing wrong with a good ol' Craftsman light.

Some of the dial back lights can be a little sketchy, finicky or whatever word you want to use

I wouldn't worry, "you got what you got" and it runs good
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