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302 Rear Main Leak

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rebenj View Drop Down
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    Posted: October-03-2006 at 1:47pm
I have a 1978 Commander Ford 302 reverse rotation engine in my Ski Tique. The motor was rebuilt 2 years ago and has had a minor oil leak from the rear main from both parting lines since. I used to correct Fel Pro seal P/N 17746. Changed the seal again after a year and still had the same problem. Motors out and I am ready to change it again but this time I have a Ford seal from SKIDIM. Talked to various Marine Engine rebuilders and some say to offset the seal and some don't. Should it be offset or not?? Any other suggestions to offer would be appreciated. The crank end is mint, no groove ect.

Regards d*ck
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JoeinNY View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-03-2006 at 2:36pm
Absolutely stagger the joint away from the parting line of the engine and pan and apply a dab of rtv at each joint of the seal and at the parting line of the block at pan where they meet the seal. Also be careful on the torque proceedure with the pan use a good torque wrench, follow the manual and then after the rtv is well dry give it another retorque, then after a warming cooling cycle or two give them another re torque. Good luck
1983 Ski Nautique 2001
1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy"
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boat dr View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-03-2006 at 7:49pm
Rebenj, you say minor oil leak from the rewar main at the parting lines.stupid question,did they reuse the old crank? if yes go to question #2 Is the crank reverse rotation,the only difference is the direction of the knurling at the rear journal,this pulls the oil away from the seal.wrong crank and there is not a seal that will stop it,oil gets fed to the seal rather that away. if it is indeed at the pan try this ,good clean bead at fore and aft pan hump,GM (mr. goodwrench) brand RTV,set pan and install pan bolts,then allow 30 min. for the stuff to go off. wait overnite and tighten to specs........this is how i do it.....boat dr
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Tim D View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-03-2006 at 9:03pm
I've bought the 2 piece marine seal, it had the same Ford number on it a $14 auto seal had. A 2 piece seal uses a crank with directional wick lines, which is in the photo below, a RH crank. The smooth crank uses a one piece seal and the seal has the grooves. I think Ford started one piece seal cranks around 1980.
Tim D
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rebenj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rebenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-05-2006 at 7:08am
To JoeinNY;

Thanks for the response and help. What you recommended is exactly what we were going to probably do. Again thanks for you help.

d*ck
ri78tique
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rebenj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rebenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-05-2006 at 7:23am
To: boat dr

Thanks for providing you input to me and to answer your question I reused the old original crank. It's in perfect shape with the knurling in the right direction and uses a two piece $70 seal. I will follow your recommendation with the use of the GM RTV.

d*ck
ri78tique
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