Boats For Sale:
1999 Carb 240 HP No Spark |
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NautiqueJeff 
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Joined: October-24-2003 Location: Lake Norman Status: Offline Points: 244 |
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 Topic: 1999 Carb 240 HP No SparkPosted: September-18-2021 at 5:59pm |
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351 in my ‘99 Air Tique 176. Been chasing a sporadic power blip at acceleration and at other random times. Seemed electrical. Replaced all tune-up parts as well as the coil. Replaced battery cables too for good measure. Problem got worse and worse over the summer, and now it won’t start at all. Now there is no spark from main coil wire. Checked 50-amp breaker. Not tripped. Made sure coil wire was seated properly. Plug wires are all new. Checked lanyard connections. All good. Definitely getting fuel. I am going to see if I still have the old coil to swap back in. What’s left that would cause no spark as far back as the coil?
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Current Boats: 1998 Ski Nautique, 1985 Sea Nautique 2700 (twin-engine), 1981 Fish Nautique (twin-engine), 1980 Fish Nautique (twin-engine)
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: September-18-2021 at 6:02pm |
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Jeff,
Confirm you have power going to the coil? Also, you can check both the primary and secondary resistance of the coil to see what condition it's in.
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NautiqueJeff
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Posted: September-18-2021 at 6:55pm |
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I didn't test it today, but I assume I do NOT have power getting to the coil.
This has been an intermittent problem until now. No obvious (to me anyway) wiring issues. Starter relay seems fine. Tried swapping the old coil back in. Same symptoms. Turns over strong, but no start. |
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Current Boats: 1998 Ski Nautique, 1985 Sea Nautique 2700 (twin-engine), 1981 Fish Nautique (twin-engine), 1980 Fish Nautique (twin-engine)
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NautiqueJeff
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Joined: October-24-2003 Location: Lake Norman Status: Offline Points: 244 |
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Posted: September-18-2021 at 6:59pm |
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Here are some pictures. Anyone see anything obvious that I missed in the wiring?
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Current Boats: 1998 Ski Nautique, 1985 Sea Nautique 2700 (twin-engine), 1981 Fish Nautique (twin-engine), 1980 Fish Nautique (twin-engine)
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MrMcD
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Joined: January-28-2014 Location: Folsom, CA Status: Offline Points: 3750 |
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Posted: September-18-2021 at 7:07pm |
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Jeff, getting power to the coil can be tricky, first you need power to the coil While the Engine is Cranking, once you determine you have that power you check for power again while your key is in the run position. When a key switch fails you can lose one or the other, usually it is the key in run position that is lost.
A simple test is to run a hot 12V wire direct from the battery to the + side of the coil and try to start it. If that does the trick you trace backwards to the source of the failure. If your coil has 12V the engine should start. Separately it is possible the points are out of adjustment, have dirt in them or are frosted over.
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NautiqueJeff
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Joined: October-24-2003 Location: Lake Norman Status: Offline Points: 244 |
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Posted: September-18-2021 at 7:15pm |
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Great! I'll test that out tomorrow by running a wire right to the battery.
I may pull the dash off and check out the key switch connections too. I should have a spare key switch around here somewhere to test with too.
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Current Boats: 1998 Ski Nautique, 1985 Sea Nautique 2700 (twin-engine), 1981 Fish Nautique (twin-engine), 1980 Fish Nautique (twin-engine)
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KENO
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Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11112 |
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Posted: September-18-2021 at 7:34pm |
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I'm gonna figure that your engine has an electronic module under the distributor cap because by 1999 points were long gone and the standard engine like yours had a Prestolite module in the distributor.
The coil should be about 1.5 ohms on the primary and about 8500 ish on the secondary side. You've already tried another coil so that's probably not the problem though.
If the coil says it good, hook your meter up to the coil positive and an engine ground and verify 10 to12ish volts to the coil while cranking. If you don't have any voltage or you have a lot less than that 10 to12ish work back towards the key to figure out where it's getting to or not getting to. If you have that 10 to 12ish, then hook the meter to the coil negative and the same engine ground and crank it over. If you have a steady 10 to 12ish or a steady zero volts your module is dead or grounded when it shouldn't be. Sometimes the tach grounds the module and causes issues so you could disconnect the gray tach wire from the coil negative and try again just to verify the tach isn't causing the problem. If it's dead, the Prestolite module went the way of the dinosaur years ago, but you could get a Pertronix module to replace it. There are a couple of different part numbers if that,s the case, but that can come later |
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NautiqueJeff
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Posted: September-18-2021 at 9:47pm |
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Great info! Thank you! More stuff to try tomorrow.
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Current Boats: 1998 Ski Nautique, 1985 Sea Nautique 2700 (twin-engine), 1981 Fish Nautique (twin-engine), 1980 Fish Nautique (twin-engine)
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Gary S
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Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Posted: September-18-2021 at 10:08pm |
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Man if that were mine I'd gt40 it so fast your head would spin
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NautiqueJeff
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Posted: September-19-2021 at 10:49am |
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Ok have some results of the tests suggested.
Key on, + terminal on coil to engine ground: 12.8v Key Start, + termainal on coil to engine ground: 10.8v Now for the interesting one. Key on, - terminal on coil to engine ground: 12.8v Key Start, - terminal on coil to engine ground: 10.8v Tried same thing with gray tach wire disconnected from coil - terminal. Same results. If I read the posts above correctly, key switch must be good, tach must not be the cause of the issue, and you're suggesting that the module in the distributer is likely failing. Is that correct?  |
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Current Boats: 1998 Ski Nautique, 1985 Sea Nautique 2700 (twin-engine), 1981 Fish Nautique (twin-engine), 1980 Fish Nautique (twin-engine)
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: September-19-2021 at 11:27am |
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Sure sound like the EI conversion is bad.
Here's some info from Ken: 1589 and 91589 these kits fit the electronic Prestolite distributor (which has a screw down cap) used from about 1993 on and also fit the clip down and screwdown cap distributors from earlier years IF they were previously converted to the Prestolite electronic kit which had the 8 legged reluctor wheel instead of a points cam. The 8 legged reluctor takes a totally different magnetic ring to fit over the 8 legged reluctor. |
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NautiqueJeff
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Joined: October-24-2003 Location: Lake Norman Status: Offline Points: 244 |
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Posted: September-19-2021 at 11:34am |
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Ok, ordered a 91589. Should have it Tuesday or Wednesday.
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Current Boats: 1998 Ski Nautique, 1985 Sea Nautique 2700 (twin-engine), 1981 Fish Nautique (twin-engine), 1980 Fish Nautique (twin-engine)
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KENO
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Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11112 |
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Posted: September-19-2021 at 12:13pm |
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Time to start shakin in yer boots Pete, same module you have in the Tique
Jeff, it's not "likely failing", it's finished failing
It probably a little late to tell you now Jeff, but Pertronix also sells the 91581LS that fits your distributor with the reluctor wheel and the points versions of the screw down cap and clip down cap Prestolites. (kinda universal for the Ford Prestolites) The LS is for Lobe Sensing and shouldn't be confused with their 91581 kit which won't work with your particular distributor Because of the "lobe sensing", it doesn't need the magnet ring and works well. (and it costs around 50 bucks less) Wayoutthere that posts here and on your site got one recently and I bought the same thing for a friends boat. You'll probably have to make a timing adjustment. Replacing the points, the timing was retarded by about 20 degrees so it had to be advanced. Replacing your old Prestolite module, I don't know how far off the timing might be, But expect to need to adjust it. The 91589 you ordered works just fine though. It'll probably need a timing adjustment too.
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NautiqueJeff
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Joined: October-24-2003 Location: Lake Norman Status: Offline Points: 244 |
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Posted: September-19-2021 at 12:50pm |
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Sounds good. Haven't done a timing adjustment in a while, but I have the equipment. Looking forward to getting this boat back on the water!
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Current Boats: 1998 Ski Nautique, 1985 Sea Nautique 2700 (twin-engine), 1981 Fish Nautique (twin-engine), 1980 Fish Nautique (twin-engine)
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MrMcD
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Joined: January-28-2014 Location: Folsom, CA Status: Offline Points: 3750 |
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Posted: September-19-2021 at 1:37pm |
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Your voltage with key on and engine cranking are both normal readings so you are corrrect the key switch is fine. Sounds like the boys have you dialed in for a quick repair and back on the water.
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NautiqueJeff
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Joined: October-24-2003 Location: Lake Norman Status: Offline Points: 244 |
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Posted: September-23-2021 at 5:28pm |
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Well, you guys nailed it.
Took all of about ten minutes to install the new ignition module and other parts. I installed a new coil and a new rotor for good measure. Turned the key and it fired right up! Still need to set the timing, but it sounds good the way it is. I'll pull out the timing light tomorrow and get it all dialed in. Thanks for your help!
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Current Boats: 1998 Ski Nautique, 1985 Sea Nautique 2700 (twin-engine), 1981 Fish Nautique (twin-engine), 1980 Fish Nautique (twin-engine)
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KENO
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Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11112 |
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Posted: September-23-2021 at 5:44pm |
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Good job, I bet the kiddos are happy
10 degrees before TDC was the original spec with that distributor. |
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NautiqueJeff
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Joined: October-24-2003 Location: Lake Norman Status: Offline Points: 244 |
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Posted: September-26-2021 at 9:11am |
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Dug out the timing light yesterday and got it all dialed in. You were right. The timing was way off after changing the module out. It is running better than it ever has since I have owned it now. Love the way it is running now! Thanks again!
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Current Boats: 1998 Ski Nautique, 1985 Sea Nautique 2700 (twin-engine), 1981 Fish Nautique (twin-engine), 1980 Fish Nautique (twin-engine)
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