Acceleration issues.

What did you do about all the leaking fuel in the primaries even when the float was adjusted?

Any leaking fuel in the secondaries?

So I was able to get the new fuel pump installed. I began to fight it for a few minutes and then thought it best to follow the advice above about rotating the engine which was way easier and great advice. 

Then it was time AGAIN to test it on the trailer. The primary bowl showed 1/2 way in the window and I was expecting success at last. I cranked it a number of times and no sign of it firing at all. I pulled the arrestor and fuel was dripping pretty heavy in the primaries. I checked the float level again and it was now completely full past the upper window (so I assume the new pump is working). I adjusted the bowl back down and let it sit for a bit thinking it was likely flooded. Tried it again later and still no signs of firing. The float level was now in the window and the primaries were no longer dripping. I let it sit over night and tried it again this am and unfortunately the same result. 

I tried opening the throttle (while still in neutral) to give it additional air and no luck. I tried a little starting fluid and no luck. No signs of firing. When I did leave the throttle open or tried the starting fluid I did get some pops (like coughs) but not like starting. Acted very similar when launched last and it finally started (GF look number 1 for reference). Although this time, it doesn't even act like it wants to start. I am at a loss and a little frustrated at this point. I don't want to kill this starter and create more problems than I already have. Just to back up, the last time it was firing was at the lake right before it died. 

Am I missing something? Any thoughts?

if she's internet camera shy, just borrow some picture of someone  from somewhere on the internet  

Piece 3 falls out when the spring breaks, and there's another internal spring that keeps the pump somewhat working.

If you want to exert maximum effort putting the pump in, then rotate the engine CCW with Jonny's big wrench so #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke, but if you want to make it easier, rotate the engine one full turn after that and #1 will then be at TDC on it's exhaust stroke and the eccentric exerts the least amount of force on the pump arm so installation is easier. Like you said, the arm goes under the eccentric.

And............. it's nothing like the Chevy pushrod setup

JQ

I've gotten some stuff from the Ebay seller referenced above and been plenty happy (along with 99.7 percent of his customers)

I was able to get the fuel pressure check done this am as well. Initially there was none while cranking and then it jumped to 6 psi. I tried it again and about the same. So I re-attached the fuel line and cranked it (I didn't crank it last time I raised and returned the float after I got home) a bit and it looked like some fuel in the primary bowl. I adjusted the float bowl up a bit and fuel level is back right in the middle of the window. When I tried this exact same thing at the lake after it died it did not produce the same result as it did today. In my novice opinion, it has to be a failing fuel pump. If we are correct it may also explain the hard start at the dock and loss of power at the top end (the only issue left after the fuel pump). Keeping in mind that I was the one stranded on the water for two hours so my opinion doesn't carry a lot of weight. 

This seems like really good news to me since I was really hoping to rule out the new carb. Any thoughts while I wait for the new fuel pump?

New carb ran great on the trailer. Easy starts and restarts so I was hoping for the same at the lake. Backed the boat down the ramp into the water and it would not start. The look from the GF was not one of confidence. It acted like it was starving for fuel. After about ten minutes of breaks and multiple attempts with multiple throttle pumps each time it finally started and idled great.

The Good: Once launched, it shifted into gear with no hesitation or stumble at all which was one of the previous issues. It was extremely smooth and it was great! Throttled up past the no wake zone which was smooth all the way to WOT. The Ahhhh sound on the high end had disappeared. However, when I looked down, the RPMs still remained at 2700 and the speedometer showed about 30. The Ahhhh was gone but the top end speed remained about the same. So we were content with that for the day. Cruised around awhile and the low end issues were gone and found a spot to anchor for a bit. Started back up after awhile and low end issues were ok but not as quite as good as it was before shutting down for a bit. 

The Bad: After starting back up and idling out we cruised for a bit at maybe half throttle and then I opened it up to WOT, there was a pop which sounded like it came from the carb and it died. GF look number 2. After multiple attempts to restart, it sounded like it wasn't getting any fuel. A passing boat was nice enough to tow us to a cove away from the rocks so we could anchor up and call in for a tow. Which of course took two hours to arrive. GF long two hour look number 3. While waiting I could see that there was no fuel in the primary float window. 

The Ugly:

 

The long tow back to the dock. I told her it runs great as long as we are being towed.  Yup, you guessed it...GF look number 4.

After contemplating this from yesterday until now my thoughts are it has to be the fuel pump. The pump is definitely older if not original. It is also about the only thing that hasn't been replaced in the fuel system. So I decided to go out this am and turn the engine over a few times and see if I could get/see fuel in the primary window. There was none. I adjusted the float level on the primary float to raise the float and no change so I returned it to the original position. I disconnect the fuel line from the carb and turned the engine over a few times to see if fuel was being delivered and fuel pumped out into the can at the same rate when the fuel pressure and fuel flow was tested earlier in this post. I am so confused.

 

I am going to order a new fuel pump no matter what based on its age but I am confused.  Why is there no fuel in the primary bowl on a brand new carburetor that was running fine (other than full top end), then dies, and the fuel pump seems to be delivering fuel? Am I lucky enough to get the one QF carb with issues? I also don't want to be tinkering around inside a brand new carb with no experience of rebuilding carburetors especially with what the new QF cost. Thoughts?

Additionally, any recommendations on a new fuel pump for this 351W. The one that is on it is a Carter with the internal filter. The new Carter pumps didn't have the best reviews. Is a pump with the internal filter necessary since it also has the fuel/water separator filter as well? 

Thanks

I did want to share a few things in getting it installed that may help others in the future who decide to go the QF route. If you are using the Holley 12 degree wedge under your QF, the 3.50" carburetor studs in the rear worked perfect for me. The mechanic had used bolts (not sure why) in the rear with the 4160 which will not work with the QF as there is not enough clearance to insert a bolt on one side. 

The spark arrestor just barely hit the float adjustment hardware on the top of the QF so I decided to go the spacer route. JQ has a previous post with a B&B Air Cleaner Sure Seal 1.50" spacer and another one from K&N which got me looking and I found a few others. Sorry, I need to review how to post a link or quote some ones previous post. In any event, I also found a Stef's Fabrication 72255 B&B Performance Air Cleaner Sure Seal 1" spacer that should be here today. I know its only a 1/2" shorter but it looked like the clearance was going to be close. After I ordered it I also found a 1/2" spacer on the Holley/QF site made by Mr. Gasket. So just a few options if clearance may be a concern.

I just want to thank everyone again for all the help. I hope to get the boat on the lake in the next week or so and give it run under load and see how it does. I am very optimistic and I will update as soon as I do. Thanks again. 

Something on the advance mechanism didn't look quite right, so I removed the nylon screws and did a quick inspection of the dizzy.  After poking around a bit, I was able to get the advance mechanism to freely rotate without issues.   Then I re-installed the nylon screws...not too tight.  Everything worked as it should.  Cap back on and the engine fired up and the advance curve was spot on.

At the time, my assumption was that the nylon screws had somehow impeded the advance mechanism from rotating.  Perhaps my poking around a bit somehow freed-up whatever was binding-up the advance mechanism.  As the dizzy worked as advertised, we buttoned-up everything up and I didn't give much more thought to the nylon screws.  Go figure...

JQ