POURABLE STRINGERS "a no brainer"

This is so incredible it should be criminal.
A CERAMIC POURABLE COMPOUND #6011. Made by ARJAY PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS. This company is local to me . www.arjaytech.com
The procedure is so simple it is ridiculous.
A) Take measurements of your stringers and especially motor mount positioning (Height is critical)
B) Cut just the tops off the stringers (just the gla$$ tops).
C) Peel out and remove the old wood stringers (They should come out like Butta!)
D) Clean out stringer spaces then scuff with sand paper.
E) Mix and pour compound #6011 and let it
kick.
F) Re-gla$$ the caps and your DONE!                          

I'd like to think it would be that easy, but nothing is that easy! I would be intersted in knowing how long they've been using it in stringer applications? I would also like to hear from some people who have this product in there boat. The websight makes it sound like its fairly new application for boats.
huff

we use to what's called chalk in engine mounts and transmission mounts, you would build a dam around the area you needed chalked and mix this stuff up and pour it in, this stuff held up v-12 Catarpillers, it was space age and it worked, maybe it's the same stuff

Has anyone ever had old stingers come out "like butta?" Isn't it more like trying to get a plastic straw out of the spark plug whole or out of the wrong hole in the transmision?

Lets see? Boat builders are using the stuff to build TRANSOMS on new boats I'll go with their judgement.

''ARJAY formulates its Ceramic Pourable Compound with premium polyester resins and high strength ceramic spheres ''
The ceramic sphere matrix add volume and crush resistance to the polyester resin but
polyester resin is not epoxy resin.
Epoxy resin and mill fiber or chopped
gla$$ is a better choice ;IF, someone was going
to try this.

I've been looking into this stuff for a while, for both my stringers and floor boards:

SEACAST

I think someone on this site mentioned this company a while back and it's been talked about on other forums as well.

I here of guys pouring epoxies down into thier rotted transoms.....

Waterdog wrote: IF you sold your boat would you tell the buyer the stringers were rotted & repaired ? Or would you buy a boat with the stringers repaired like this. I would like to know the stingers were replaced ! I'd be OK with the job done right.

Yes I would tell them they were rotted and replaced so they know they are getting a structurally sound trouble free boat.

I would have to do some research on the epoxy systems for stringers before I would do it that way but my thoughts would be that it would be an acceptable if not better design than the original wood stringers. If the repair is performed correctly it will never need to be done again which is more than can be said for the original wood. There would certainly be no more rot or water absorbtion issues ever.

I also think the epoxy repair would add more value to the boat than a wood stringer replacement. Atleast thats how I would market the boat.

For clarity on the issue I am refering to FULL stringer replacement not patching with either material.

Hey just a thought. I have heard everyone talk about taking key motormount measurements before cutting stringers away to help find the right locations again.

Idea:
Why not cut the stringer tops off except the motormount areas? This way they are not moved in the slightest. It could be done for just a epoxy repair or the full pourable cast material replacement.

Just dig the wood out from under the left behind motor mount stringer top with an auger bit and chistles and fill the material up to the original level. Drill new holes for mounts through the old ones. Done!

NM

I am pleased to see this post take on the life it has and if nothing else it has prompted thought and conversation. I am a strong advocate of doing something right, in hopes it never has to be done again. Additionally, I do seek the insight of industry professionals. Regardless of ones method, wood, foam, epoxy or a ceramic compound. It just goes to illustrate there is more than one way to hang a roll of toilet paper. Having been down the laborious road of stringer replacement and with more boats to do I want to utilize the best methods the industry has to offer. I am working on a 1974 C.C. Tobago with the stringers out, (okay it wasn't exactly like butta but close) and the plan is to go with the Arjay.

hasbeen, keep us posted on your progress on that Tobago. We like pics too!

Skidawg-

I just finished pouring Seacast stringer material into my 78'SN. The process is quite straight forward and I love the results. It was somewhat costly for the material but you only do it once and... IT WON'T ROT! EVER!!!!

Sounds like you are well into it but I will be detailed for those who may be embarking on this repair.

1st thing to check out is to make sure the boat is well positioned on the trailer. If it is not centered or well supported before removing and pouring the new stringers you may introduce some oil canning into the hull.

I went a step further and only removed one of the main stringers' wood @ a time. I chistled out the wood in the morning then poured it in the afternoon and left the garage for the night. The stuff has one strong odor and I wanted to let it cure without my weight/ movement in the boat.

Before pouring the new Seacast and removing the wood I found I had to fix some of CC's work first. CC seemed to cut a few corners and there was quite a few voids to fill on the stringer sidewalls. After the fibergla$$ repairs were cured I sanded any proud surfaces flush with the wood top.

The next thing I did was carefully cut the original fibergla$$ tops out. Using a dremel and a 1/8" milling bit I cut the very top of the fibergla$$ just inside the tangency of the radiused corners. This left me a top refference point to fill to and it kept that original rounded look. I also left the top on the gla$$ @ the four motor mount spots for that no fuss motor re-install.

The wood acually came out relatively easily by using a 6" x 3/4" auger bit and chistles. I drilled straight down to the hull every 6" to 8" (being carefull not to blow through the sidewalls of the fibergla$$ shell). Then I used a chistle on the endgrain to pop out 1/2" tall x 6' to 8" chunks of wood.

Before removing the wood In the back end of the secondary stringers I had to do another prep step. There was a spot where the 3/4" wood was doubled up with a foamed center island. The inside of the foam cavity was too tight to fibergla$$. For this area I removed the old wet foam, let dry and then repoured new 2Lb US Composites closed cell urethane foam.

I trimmed the top to match the stringer after curing then carfully removed the wood around the foam island. This foam island was now part of the stringer mold form and did not change the stiffness/weight in these areas.

Before pouring the Seacast, extra drainage holes were also added to the secondary/ main stringers. I did this by cutting holes throught the now hollow gla$$ skins and inserted a waxed medium size rubber hose. Then after Seacast pouring/ curing I removed the hoses.

The pours were pretty straight forward and I found a small masonry trowl handy in getting the material where I wanted it. I over filled the tops just slightly then sanded flush when curred.

Another material which I am using is KOMA board. It is a solid 3/4" PVC material available from good lumber yards. This is a home building product for exterior trim. It cuts and shapes like wood but will not rot.

This is what I am replaceing the the cross members with. It's also great because it does not require gla$$ing. Just epoxy and stainless screw it to the stringers. Where it needs to be doubled up just glue two peices together with PVC cement. It's nice stuff!

This is were I am @ now. I still plan to regla$$ the stinger tops and coat the inside of the hull with West System epoxy to insure no hydrolysis starts. I will then refill the correct cavities with the 2lb foam and reinstall the old gla$$ floor.

Overall I found the Seacast great to work with, just wear rubber gloves and a good respirator. I think it is going to really pay off during the rebuild. With this process no dimentions or locations have been changed and the boat should just fall back together.

It is also going to be nice to screw everything back on and never hit a soft spot of wood ever again. NICE!!!!!

Over and Out and good luck with yours-
NM

Nautique Mike wrote: Skidawg- I just finished pouring Seacast stringer material into my 78'SN. The process is quite straight forward and I love the results. It was somewhat costly for the material but you only do it once and... IT WON'T ROT! EVER!!!!

How many gallons of material were required to pour all of your stringers?

Waterdog-

Installing the lags are done just like the originals. Predrill through the old hole in the fibergla$$ top (if you left that area intack)with a drill slightly smaller than the threads of the lag. Bolt down.

Skibum-

My 78'SN took five 5 gallons buckets (25 gallons total).

Here's the breakdown:
10 gallons per side for the main stringer.
5 gallons per side for the sencondary stringer set.


Huffy420-

I pull some photos together and post them.

NM