check your pylons for safety |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Posted: November-28-2006 at 11:12am |
Mike, Yes, as long as you have it clamped in the mill, you can easily go oversize for the female sleeve. Like I stated originally it's the way it should have been designed from the start. Pete
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Nautique Mike
Senior Member Joined: June-20-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 147 |
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Thanks Pete-
The loctite is a great idea. I'm also thinking of installing a SS sleave instead of the rod. Then I can mount the rod permanently into the bra$$ hull fitting and let it drain like it should. Thanks again- NM |
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Nautique Mike
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Mike, It was about 3" into the aluminum pylon.Probably a long end mill or a boring bar will do. If you end up oversise, I'm a great fan of Locktite retaining compound. It will take up up to .010" of slop I think.Pete
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Hollywood
Moderator Group Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13512 |
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The newer boats have a SS bolt in place of that lower pin through the gla$$ed in socket. I just put a pylon from a '95 Super Sport in the '88 and it fits perfectly.
The "new" black pylon is about 1.5" taller, and has a slight bend to it allowing boom clamps down to the floor avoiding the motor box. Quoted a price of $240 from CC. I will post some pics in spring, lots of goodies going into the boat this winter. The black pylon looks great with all the other black on the boat: carpet, tinted windshield, rub rail rope and secondary stripe. |
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Nautique Mike
Senior Member Joined: June-20-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 147 |
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Thanks Pete!
Yeah, looks like I will have to chuck it up and mill it out. I have a milling machine so I can do it myself. How deep was your steel pin into the pylon shaft? Thanks- NM |
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Nautique Mike
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Mike, Mine had the pin retained with the roll pins. Maybe in latter years it was more of a press fit. I'm wondering if a machine shop with a large lathe would be able to chuck it up and bore your pin out.The slight bend at the base might give them problems. They also may be able to set it up on a boring mill. I hate to recommend going to the outside but at this point may be your only option. Pete
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Nautique Mike
Senior Member Joined: June-20-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 147 |
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Hey Pete or anyone else-
I looked over my pylon and the steel base pin could use a replacement. My pylon has two 1/4" roll pins at the top, just inches below the ski rope ring and thumb. These I'm guessing hold on the ring and thumb, not the steel base pin. There is no roll pin near the steel base pin and it seems unlikely that the base pin goes the whole length through the 3' pylon. This is a pylon off a 78'SN has a slight bend just around the welded on alumn. floor plate. I think my pylon has just a force fit steel base pin put in by a PILE DRIVER! I have tried removing the two roll pins, soaked it in WD-40, and have yanked on the base pin with a huge pipe wrench. The D@m thing, just won't move!!! Any ideas???? Thanks, NM |
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Nautique Mike
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Mike, The steel pin isn't easy to get out since CC didn't use a corrosion resistant aluminum alloy nor did they anodize it so the white rust and red rust from the pin has it really locked in. The cross drilled roll pin needs to be driven out with a good straight punch of the proper dia. then a pipe wrench on the steel pin working it back and forth and it will come out. Soaking it with a rust penetrant first will help but basicly it just requires alot of force. I think your set screw idea may give you problems if you need to get it out in the future. If they corrode in the socket they will be hard to get out because the hex sockets like to strip out. (instead,use square head set screws-stainless if you can find them) This is why I filled mine with epoxy plus just like you noticed, a weep hole can't be drilled low enough. If you do epoxy, don't forget the coating of grease as a future realease agent. Good luck, Pete
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Nautique Mike
Senior Member Joined: June-20-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 147 |
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Peter-
I have been working on my boat and wondered the same thing about the design. How did you remove the old steel rod out of the aluminum pylon? How did you install the new SS rod stock? Check out the retrofits I did on miy ski pylon base: I drilled a small weep hole near the bottom of the bra$$ pylon fitting which is gla$$ed in. The hole is not all the way to the bottom of the fitting because the hull gla$$ comes up a bit over the base. I also added two 1/4 -20 SS set screws into the peice to be able to sinch the connection tighter. Food 4 thought... Thanks- NM |
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Nautique Mike
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The Dude
Platinum Member Joined: October-19-2004 Location: Houston Status: Offline Points: 1334 |
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Peter, thanks for the info. Your boat is a bute!
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Mullet Free since 93
95 Sport |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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I know it’s easy to criticize other people’s work but in this case I will. I’m a professional engineer and wonder what the Correct Craft engineers (or rather lack of) were thinking about when they designed the mounting of the pylon to the keel. I removed the pylon to replace the carpet on my 77 Tique and found that the carbon steel pin that engages to the socket gla$$ed to the keel was almost completely rusted off. The female socket sits verticaly in the bottom of the boat and holds water. Besides not using stainless, it would have been a simple redesign to invert this mounting so the male pin was gla$$ed to the keel eliminating the water trap and the female socket was in the pylon.
The repair involved replacing the pin in the bottom of the pylon with stainless, cleaning up the socket on the keel, (most of the rust was on the male pin) and then after coating both the pin and socket with grease as a release agent poring in a mix of epoxy/ gla$$ fiber in the socket. The pylon was then installed before the epoxy cured. I don’t know what the current pylon mounting technique is but think everyone should periodically check the condition. I know in the 60’s the pylon was bolted to the keel and then simply went through a hole in the floor. I would hate to see a pylon along with a piece of the floor go flying out of the boat. |
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