mustang #1 pictures

Gary, I can't find my 1&1/4"OD by 1" ID plastic bushing I use to line up struts with the hull hole and log! It must be buried someplace in the garage. (I need to get Buffalo Greg to come in and clean up my shop/garage for me.) I did find my forstner bit extension and plastic bushing which just has a 3/4" bore instead of the 1". I use it on wood boat bottom jobs when I need to bore a hole in new wood. The strut is bolted down parallel fore and aft and then the new hole is bored using the strut as a guide.

When lining up the strut to the hull hole with a solid bushing and the prop shaft, it takes all the guess work out from the shaft flopping around in the soft rubber cutlass bearing.

Forstner extension and bushing:

Might want to look into Sikaflex instead of the 5200, FYI.

Tim

farmer wrote: Pete,thanks for the tips. I like your forstner bit extension. Question,are you saying that I can bush the through hull hole to 1" and use the prop shaft to align the strut? I had no idea that hole was that accurate. If that's right,I like it. I will use 5200 to seat and seal the strut and rudder.

No, it's the other way around! Bush the strut (just like my bit extension) and use the prop shaft to align the strut it the center of the hull hole/shaft log.

Tim, why Sikaflex over 5200? I have nothing against the Sikaflex but it sounds like you have some info on it. Better? Why?

Pete, am I just eyeballing the shaft through the hull hole? Please hang in there,I'm almost out of questions(on this subject anyway)
                          Thanks, Farmer

Okay Pete,thanks.

Guys, I was also planning on using 4200 on my strut. (actually already bought it) I checked 3M web page & the main difference between 5200 & 4200 is that 4200 has 1/2 of the tensile strength of 5200. Well, I figured that with the strut clamped mechanically that there was essentially no load on the sealant. Is there any factor (like maybe prop wash) that I am missing?

Chris

8122pbrainard wrote: Greg, What was going through my mind was that you are certainly a lot neater than I am! Every picture you post of your garage/shop looks like you just washed the floor!

Pete, thanks but it's not that clean. I did the floor epoxy in the room where the pumpkin is only 2 years ago. It's a great floor covering...hit it with a swiffer and done! Otherwise, I just shove the junk out of the way. I have 3 workbeches covered in projects?!!? LOL

I was wondering about your table saw set-up and the red jig? on the left. Got a bigger pic?

I've seen those and similar in the magazines but haven't used one. My router table is my version of the first one Norm built on his show. Because it's made of wood, it's fully adjustable?!!?

Nice set-up though. I've wanted an extension on my saw for some time. Someday...

Pete You just need to get a leaf blower and open the door . It works great .

Believe it or not, I'm finally getting the mustang painted tomorrow.My buddy has a body shop so we're doing it there.It's going to be base coat clear coat on the sides with a white non-ablative bottom paint for below the waterline. It's an epoxy bottom paint in white with teflon. Supposed to be good for trailered power boats.I'll post some pictures tomorrow.

We finished the last coat of bottom paint this morning. It was a tight fit in my garage with my flatbed trailer but it's done. I know many of you don't like bottom paint but I felt I needed the added security against blistering the bottom again, This epoxy bottom with the hard bottom paint should stay good for a lomg time to come. I should be ready to flip it back over next weekend. I have to hunt down the parts to my "one man boat flipping setup" during the week. Farmer

Well I finally got around to the stringers on this boat.A couple of things have me confused.I cut just the top of the fiberglass encasing the stringers expecting to have to dig out the wood.But when it was all removed,the stringers lifted out in one piece.Is that right?I thought they were fiberglassed in and attached to the hull.I don't know if they were replaced before.
I also was looking for the post about the proper orientation of the grain in the stringers.If these were replaced at one time they may not have the grain running the right way. Here are some pictures.



They look original to me but I don't know for sure.I also noticed that the angle on the bottom of the sringers remained constant even though the angle of the hull flattens out at the back near the transom. Gary

farmer wrote: the stringers lifted out in one piece.Is that right?

Nope, that won't work! As I have learned from this site, a big part of using d fir is for the adhesion. My old stringers had to be scraped to be burned. The old glass was still stuck on good after 20 years...even in the rotten spots!

I am going to say that I do not think adhesion between the wood and fiberglass is all that important. Here's why:

The wood stringer serves two main purposes:
1. Solid mount for the engine.
2. Form for the fiberglass surrounding the stringers.

It is the fiberglass around the stringers that provides the rigidity for the hull. This is evident in all the boats running around with rotten stringers...without hull failure. I will even go so far as to say you do not even need the stringers or fiberglass around the stringers for hull integrity. But, the hull would then oil can terribly and you would get stress fractures eventually.

So, IMHO do not worry about adhesion. But in the photos above, I certainly would remove all the old fiberglass that was around the stringers and start new from the hull up. Don't worry too much about evenly the wood stringer rests on the hull, you can always fill the voids with thickened epoxy (epoxy resin and saw dust works well). Shoot getting the stringers out in one piece like you did means you had a few years left

It won't fold or collapse. The wood is there is resist in one direction or the other and the sides are connected together topa and bottom. Again, the hull does not even need the stringers for rigidity along its length as the sides of the hull prevent bending. So, no real bending flexing loads on the stringers anyway. Think about it, have you ever heard of a boat bending or breaking in half due to rotten stringers...I bet you have not. And certainly, the fiberglass is not bonded to rotton stringers. Aint gonna happen.