82 Floor Repair (I need help)

based on some of the other posts about stringers is in that area they just glassed over the foam and in your case the PO must have used very little over the foam. Does the foam seem wet? Might be able to pull the carpet grind down some of the fiberglass and build it up from there.

the foam is always dry near the surface, chances are down closer to the hull it might be wet. Cracks are one of the reasons i prefer wood over glassing on top of the foam.
it does seem pretty thin at that area where the crack is and you may like 79 said glass over it. I think some further investigation is needed and maybe post some more pics. Its hard to believe the stringers and floors were replaced in 99, I think a little exageration was included or maybe just a bad spot was repaired.
Is that carpet that wore out? or am i seeing something different
Eric

Dug more and it was soaked. The secondary stringers were mush. I went ahead and tore the floor and foam out from the front of the engine back. I will post some pictures tomorrow. It is too dark and depressing out there right now. I have a feeling this could be a busy thread over the next couple of weeks. The good news is my brother is a school teacher and is off next week for spring break so I should have lots of help if the weather is good to us.

Is there a composite material that would be better to use than plywood? What about the secondary stringers??

read up on the subject to get a better understanding of some of the materials being used.... and keep on digging

Jon,

Sorry to hear of your difficulties; that has to be dissapointing. Keep us posted as you get further into it. Hopefully the weather holds for you.

Chuck

Jon4, I caught the same picture that Bill (skibum) did. Hate to say it but I think you need to keep digging. When did you buy the boat?

What do you think about using composite wood. I know I have seen deck boards that are made of a composite material. I do not see any reason why I could not use these instead of pine for my secondary stringers.


I am thinking that instead of making a permanent floor on both sides of the engine compartment that I will make 2 long fiberglass tanks that I can drop in the boat. I could then fill the tanks with water for a little wakebarding weight. What I like about my idea is the ability to add weight and remove the entire floor easily without a problem.

What I dont like is . . . I dont know if I can make the secondary stringers strong enough to hold these tanks.

Jon, Don't even consider using the "decking" composite wood. It is made from recycled polypropelene bottles (milk bottles) and wood flour. It is also used for glue bottles because glue won't stick to it. So, epoxy resin / fiberglass won't stick ether!! It also isn't as strong and does bend. When you use it for decking material you even need to space the joists closer than you would with normal 2X material (wood).

it does provide structural support, boyancy, deadens sound..... I really dont like it but those are 3 good reasons to use it,
you cold pour it around the tanks you install and they really wont move

jon4pres wrote: Can anyone let me know around what this is going to cost.

I believe SkiBum said recently that he had spent ~$1k on all his supplies. I believe that would include gelcoat, so thats more than it would cost you.

I would say a complete floor and stringer job would cost $700-1000 in materials, including carpet.

Thanks for the info. I was hoping it would be less but whats another thousand right.

Eric you are really tempting me with to not go with foam.

It just seems to me tha the foam is going to get wet at some point. Plus now I find out that it is the most expensive part of the job.

I guess I have a little time before I have to make that decision.

I have decided that I am going to work across the floor from passenger side to the drivers. I have 90% of the flooring taken up and the secondary stringers on the passenger side are completely gone. I am leaving the drivers side in and using them as a pattern. Once I have the passengers side secondary stringers done I will move to the drivers side secondary stringers. Then I will work on the main stringers one at a time.
This method seems like a good way to do it ot me because I can always go look at the other side and use it as a pattern.

I still have to pull the motor but I think that I can get Dad's skid loader tonight and get that out.

Eric do you think the marine grade plywood is necessary? ive always just gotten normal plywood & coated all the edges thoroughly and put a few coats on top & bottom.

Nate

The marine 3/4 ply wood I bought has a couple more plys in it and is a lot lighter weight than other ply wood almost like bulsa wood.When I drilled holes in it the drill bit had a tar like adhesive on it. $85 a sheet but worth it. ( I think )

Waterdog, You may have gotten a piece of Okoume marine ply. It is allot lighter than Fir ply. One thing though, It is NOT very rot resistent and is ment for epoxy saturation so make sure its coated real good. If you got it from someone who is building boats with a epoxy system, then that's probably what he had.

Eric, you're close on the marine difference. It's really the inner plys on marine that have a very tight allowence for gaps between the pieces of veneer. Otherwise both Exterior and Marine use the same phenolic based glues.

Is it worth the extra doe? probably not if your coating both sides and edges and then painting it.
most times people are'nt coating it and waterproofing it, I have used plywoods in the past i did not coat it, up in front bunks and so on. the best thing is keeping any wood dry and it will last for years