82 Floor Repair (I need help)

Eric, i was told ,same glue same wood, the difference is the VOIDS. Marine has 0% voids,where the other designations,A/B,A/C have more or less voids.JMHO, but what do I know?????

Really dont see the need to use 3/4" treated plywood for the floor. Glass would be fine. I almost used 1/8" 3ply. 1/2" normal plwood would be enough. Just apply epoxy resin, 10oz or more glass cloth, and resin to the underside before you install. Then apply two layers of epoxy resin and glass on top. When the floor attaches to the side of the hull and to the stringers it actually provides some increase in the structural integrity of the boat. There have been several clever modifications to allow water to flow out of the floor area. I am of the opinion that a properly constructed floor and stringers will seal water out. The only way it will get in is through years of neglect or acute damage.

As for cost, figre on one gallon of resin per stringer. 10yds of glass for all four stringers. Then I used five gallons on the floor as well as 30 yds of glass (10 ea Eglass cloth, epoxy mat, and biaxial mat)

Good luck with your project.

I did not get the engine pulled but I did start it last night just so that I would know that it made it through the winter.   The oil looked black and it looks like it survived. Then I unhooked everything. The only thing left to do is take it loose at the motor mounts.
I spent a good hour driving the skid loader across town at 15 or 20 mph.

My motor has two rings that come out of the motor. One on the front right and the other on the rear left of the block. I am assuming that these are made to pull the motor. Can anyone tell me any different.

Where are you guys getting supplies? If you have a good online place that would be ideal because I know I wont be able to find anything local.

Can someone give me a shopping list. Like I said I have never touched wet fiberglass or epoxy in my life. I looked at the Pete's website and it only confuses me.

If you guys have a list of what kind and how much of everything I need it would definetly help.

When I am done I will have to take all of the information that I learn and write a book "Rebuilding Stringers for DUMMIES"

I got the woodworker of the year award when I was in High school. That doesnt really mean anything but I am very conifident that I can do what I need to. My grandpa has a great shop full of tools that I can steal.

To replace the stringers this is a pretty good list of materials:

quan      item
5 gal     Epoxy resin 635 thin 3:1 ratio
1 roll    50 yds 2" E-glass tape
1 roll    50 yds 4" E-glass tape
1 roll    50 yds 8" E-glass tape
5yds      Epoxy mat
5qts      West 404 filler (fine glass)
5qts      Aerosil-Cabosil thickening agent
5qts      Fairing compound
25 ea     2" wood paintbrushes
25 ea     stir sticks
5 ea      1qt mixing containers
2ea       2"x10"x16'
2ea       1"x6"x12'

Each stringer consumes about one gallon of epoxy resin from start to finish. Use the epoxy mat to laminate both sides of the stringers. Seat the stringers with 2 layers of epoxy mat and clamp until cured. Fill gaps with 404 filler and epoxy. Then use 2", 4", 8" strips along the joint. Use 404 and epoxy to make a bead 1" above and below the joint 1/4" to 1/2" thick.

That is all it takes to laminate and install the stringers.

I remember reading that Bill ordered from US Composites.

BKH

Jon, You can also take a look at:

www.masepoxy.com

They actually have a on-line store

damn that was slow typing on my part

when you only have one boat and a limited amount of time, I am pretty sure findind someone like Eric to do a fantastic job on your stringers and floor is the way to go.

Now a project boat, I definitely would like to try this wonderful task myself. I admire you guys that do this task yourself to your only boat.

It is by volume and not weight so don't use a scale!! The pumps are less than $15 and well worth it. You can mix real small 1 stroke of each pump batches plus they are allot neater since you're not pouring out of can. The pump kits fit all containers up to the 5 gal. size by using extention tubes that fit on the bottom of the pumps.

Depending on the manufacturer and the type of hardener you use, the mix ratio can vari. Read the instructions and get the proper pumps.

The small batches really come in handy when you are adding fillers. The mixed volume really increases especially on the fairing fillers to the point that you sometimes can't use it fast enough before it sets up.

Sorry, forgot to list the pumps. Just cost a few dollars worth every penny and then some. Too easy. Pump three times move the container pump once and repeat. Also you need a good roller. I tried cleaning mine after each use but it only lasted about three stringers. Buy a few of those as well.

79, Some epoxy manufacturers do list the mix ratio by weight and that can be used. However it typically is used for large batches so you don't have to pump the pumps for long periods of time. The pumps are cheap and not as messy as pouring from a can but most important on small batches very accurate. One drop in a small batch will make a difference.

I used resin I got from the rot doctor website, liked it a little better than the west system stuff.

I took the motor out last night. I can see where the PO tried to do some repairs. It looks like from the front motor mounts forward he tried to make everything worse.