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shaft packing - proceedure |
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tjlake 
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Joined: June-23-2006 Status: Offline Points: 129 |
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 Topic: shaft packing - proceedurePosted: June-21-2007 at 11:23am |
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I have read the posts regarding replacing the drive shaft packing and am comfortable doing it. Have either missed or not found the answer to one question:
What is the recommended way to replace the packing - wrap around the shaft then place gland cap over the packing or insert the packing into the gland cap and then screw cap on? Thanks for the help..Joe |
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Posted: June-21-2007 at 11:36am |
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Put it on the shaft first, then run the gland cap down on it. Don't forget to stagger the but ends of the packing.
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tjlake
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Joined: June-23-2006 Status: Offline Points: 129 |
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Posted: June-21-2007 at 11:48am |
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Thanks Pete, What I thought, but knew someone here was more of an expert..Joe
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bsucics
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Joined: July-18-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 109 |
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Posted: June-21-2007 at 2:50pm |
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I wouldn't say that it matters. I used the other method - it was a piece of cake and worked fine. Used a dental pick to remove and replace the packing.
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Darrel
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Joined: June-16-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 340 |
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Posted: June-22-2007 at 1:40pm |
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I used the gortex type from skidim, packed the gland and it is virtually dripless. Not saying either way is better but the shaft stays cool and almost no water in the bildge at the end of a weekend.
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freemanca
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Joined: March-07-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 88 |
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Posted: June-24-2007 at 2:17am |
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You do want some drip though, right? I recently replaced mine but I think i have it too tight, the shaft developed a squeak and it didn't look like any water all had dripped in. I haven't had it back in the water to try it a little looser.
chris |
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spe123
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Joined: January-31-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10 |
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Posted: June-24-2007 at 4:47am |
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I just repacked the shaft and rudder on the '85 with the Gortex from Skidim. It was simple after a few searches on this site. Skidim recommended the correct thickness but said I would need three packages. Two was plenty for both shaft and rudder. I tightened it down hand tight. No water. Warmed up only slightly. I did back it off maybe 1/8th turn and now it runs cool and essentially drip free. I wrapped it around the shaft and slid the nut down over.
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1985 Nautique2001 w/Chevy 454
2001 Sport Nautique |
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vectwar
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Joined: March-25-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 12 |
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Posted: June-25-2007 at 7:50pm |
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I have to replace the packing in the rudder. It is leaking a bit when in the water. I am going out on the water this weekend. I dont have time to change it out, so what I did was loosen the holding nut, and tightened down the on the nut that holds the packing into place, and re-tightend the hold nut. Will this be ok? I know the rudder does not need to leak any water. But, how tight can I screw down on the rudder shaft and still be ok?
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Posted: June-25-2007 at 9:04pm |
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vect, There are packing nut wrenches but few people have them in fact I don't think many marinas / mechanics have them ether! A pipe wrench or a large channel lock pliers will work. Tightening the rudder stuffing box may be all that is needed. It can be tightened quite a bit before you start feeling resistance at the helm (wheel). I think you will be ok.
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Mickstique
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Joined: July-10-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 4 |
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Posted: July-11-2007 at 11:40pm |
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i have an '81 ski nautique. was told in another forum to go with the 3/16" diameter gortex packing instead of the 1/4". but the person who recommended that has a much different year model boat. Is the 3/16" gortex from Skidim indeed the way to go for an '81 SN?
Thanks, |
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"wake" up!
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