Forums
NautiqueParts.comNautiqueSkins.com - Correct Craft Upholstery and Part
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - White steam / smoke
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Register Register  Login Login

White steam / smoke

 Post Reply Post Reply Page    <123
Author
GottaSki View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah


Joined: April-21-2005
Location: NE CT
Status: Offline
Points: 3327
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-06-2007 at 2:17pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

This has been mentioned before, but the 143 'stat seems to be recommended for the 351w. Thats what I run in my boat,


Not entirely, I believe 143 is for the salt water, raw water cooled engines.
"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

River Rat to Mole
Back to Top
TRBenj View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: June-29-2005
Location: NWCT
Status: Offline
Points: 21102
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-06-2007 at 2:27pm
Originally posted by GottaSki GottaSki wrote:

Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

This has been mentioned before, but the 143 'stat seems to be recommended for the 351w. Thats what I run in my boat,


Not entirely, I believe 143 is for the salt water, raw water cooled engines.


Not according to SkiDIM. White Lake's site says the 160 is for the 1994+ 351w's with EFI.
Back to Top
backfoot100 View Drop Down
Platinum Member
Platinum Member


Joined: January-03-2007
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 1897
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote backfoot100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-06-2007 at 2:37pm
I think that Gottaski is right. There was a heavily debated post awhile back that finally came down to that electrolisis on salt water raw cooled engines is much lower if you use the 143 stat.

That is if my memory serves me right. I'm 50 now so that part of my body is definitely starting to go.
When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded.



Eddie
Back to Top
TRBenj View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: June-29-2005
Location: NWCT
Status: Offline
Points: 21102
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-06-2007 at 3:48pm
Originally posted by backfoot100 backfoot100 wrote:

There was a heavily debated post awhile back that finally came down to that electrolisis on salt water raw cooled engines is much lower if you use the 143 stat.

That could very well be true. I can tell you for certain that both SkiDIM and White Lake both told me that the 143 is the correct 'stat for my carb'd 351w.

In the discussions here, the 143 allows the motor to run around 160, where the 160 'stat keeps the motor closer to 180.
Back to Top
marks View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie


Joined: April-23-2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 96
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote marks Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-06-2007 at 9:58pm
It wasn't my intent to revive the 143 verses 160 thermostat discussion

I was just trying to get the point across to Azeus17 that, contrary to other posts, the engine is hot to the touch and some parts are hotter than others.
Back to Top
ecproductions View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie


Joined: September-06-2007
Status: Offline
Points: 27
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ecproductions Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-06-2007 at 10:31pm
I have a 1980 MC I run at 140-160 depending on water temp and if i hit it hard for a mile or so when I come to a stop I notice the engine temp will rise to 180 but start to decrease. I have a neovane water pump thats seems to pump water good but maybe not good enough Boat has been like this or 5 years and no problems
Back to Top
azeus17 View Drop Down
Gold Member
Gold Member
Avatar

Joined: August-19-2007
Location: Grand Rapids, M
Status: Offline
Points: 576
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote azeus17 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-07-2007 at 11:56am
I do have a 143 stat. And I do run is brackish water, if that does make a difference. My temp stays right around 160. I took the stat out altogether and the temp was at about 140 at about 30 MPH and then would rise up and fall back down after I stoped. I tested the stat and it did open right near 140. When conducting the test, I poked my finger in the water and realized very quickly that even at 140 I could not keep it in there at all. I made the assumption that if 140 water will burn me than 140 steel would too. As I said, I have ordered the IR thermometer, should be here today and then I will be able to get a very accurate reading of what it really is. My VC's also get very hot along with the oil pan, but as was stated before, I think that is normal. Boat is running great, besides the white smoke I am still getting at higher RPM's. I am just going to keep an eye on the oil level for now.
I will post temps I get from the IR next week.

Thanks for everyones help.
Boats:
Current: 02 SANTE
Sold: 89 Sport Nautique
Back to Top
JR_VIC View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: June-05-2006
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 175
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JR_VIC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-21-2007 at 2:30am
If I am working on my boat at night while running on the trailer hooked up to the fake a lake it has always been a steam machine. Since brand new it has always had a little steam coming out of the exhaust once up on plane even in the summer but slightly more steam in the cool months.

Thanks!
"That's not a Snow Cone that's my Ring!"
Back to Top
M3Fan View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: October-22-2005
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 3185
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote M3Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-21-2007 at 11:54am
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Originally posted by backfoot100 backfoot100 wrote:

There was a heavily debated post awhile back that finally came down to that electrolisis on salt water raw cooled engines is much lower if you use the 143 stat.

That could very well be true. I can tell you for certain that both SkiDIM and White Lake both told me that the 143 is the correct 'stat for my carb'd 351w.

In the discussions here, the 143 allows the motor to run around 160, where the 160 'stat keeps the motor closer to 180.


As I've mentioned before, as a part of just plain goodwill maintenance I put three different 160 degree stats in that motor and every one of them had the boat at exactly 180 degrees at idle in the driveway. I was so puzzled that I just put the old stat back in there, so I can tell you for SURE that the 160 stat puts you at 180, guaranteed. End of discussion!
2000 SN GT40 w/99 Graphics/Gel
2016 SN 200 OB 5.3L DI
https://forum.fifteenoff.com




Back to Top
Messer View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie


Joined: May-28-2007
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 63
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Messer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-17-2007 at 2:08am
I understand the temp sending units are different in the i/b vessels...how about the guage in the dash? If you use an off the shelf guage from an auto parts store, does the guage read the boat temp sending unit the same? Will 140 degrees at the sending unit be 140 degrees on the dash?

azeus- how did the IR teser work? Can you post the specs on it? Where to buy/cost?
Johnnie
1987 Ski Nautique
1981 Fish Nautique
1980 Fish Nautique
1979 Fish Nautique
1986 Master Craft
1984 American Skier
Back to Top
79nautique View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: January-27-2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 7872
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-17-2007 at 3:37am
Originally posted by Messer Messer wrote:

I understand the temp sending units are different in the i/b vessels...how about the guage in the dash? If you use an off the shelf guage from an auto parts store, does the guage read the boat temp sending unit the same? Will 140 degrees at the sending unit be 140 degrees on the dash?

azeus- how did the IR teser work? Can you post the specs on it? Where to buy/cost?

no they are not the same
Back to Top
azeus17 View Drop Down
Gold Member
Gold Member
Avatar

Joined: August-19-2007
Location: Grand Rapids, M
Status: Offline
Points: 576
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote azeus17 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2007 at 11:18pm
The unit I bought was on a computer parts website. Can't remember the name now, but it was only $20. Obviously not the best on the market, but I didn't want to drop $100 bucks. It claims to be accurate within 2%. As it turns out, when my block and oil pan were too hot to touch, IR read 125-150. My gauge is reading around 140-160 with a 143 stat in. The IR just gave me a little piece of mind. Oh yeah, you must be within 1 inch of the surface you are trying to read, but on our rigs that is no problem. The more expensive ones have a longer range, but again, to me not worth $100 bucks.
Boats:
Current: 02 SANTE
Sold: 89 Sport Nautique
Back to Top
Messer View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie


Joined: May-28-2007
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 63
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Messer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-22-2007 at 1:34am
QUOTE]
no they are not the same
[/QUOTE]

79, in your opinion if my "auto parts store guage" reads consistant 190, fluctuating slightly on loads (142 stat, sending unit from PCM) how far off do you think it is? Do you recommend any specifc brand guages. Thanks for all!
Johnnie
1987 Ski Nautique
1981 Fish Nautique
1980 Fish Nautique
1979 Fish Nautique
1986 Master Craft
1984 American Skier
Back to Top
Jim_In_Houston View Drop Down
Platinum Member
Platinum Member


Joined: September-06-2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 1120
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim_In_Houston Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-30-2007 at 1:33am
What a long thread. I thought they all steamed. My '68 puts out more steam than a Stanley Steamer. My S.O. hangs drapes behind the boat to rid them of wrinkles. If I didn't have steam coming out of the exhausts I'd have nothing at all coming out. If it wasn't for the steam my neighbors wouldn't know it was my boat in the water and they wouldn't be able to see me coming. You guys are giving me too much to worry about so pardon me if I ignore this whole thread including the laser powered sex machine thing which I have not yet found out anything by my relentless searching on the internet.
Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
Back to Top
JoeinNY View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: October-19-2005
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 5693
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-30-2007 at 3:39pm
A 68 interceptor is going to steam more than the later cooling setups in my experience. The newer setups have more bypass which keeps the motor more uniform in temp and has plenty of cooling water going to the manifolds. The logs on the 68 are also more prone to air spots on the top than the pcm style manifolds so anyway in my experience it is different and I wouldn't sweat it.
1983 Ski Nautique 2001
1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy"
Holeshot Video
Back to Top
eric lavine View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah


Joined: August-13-2006
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 13413
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-30-2007 at 3:43pm
fwiw, you may see steam on the thinner manifolds if you run them, on alot of the stainless exhausts i see, my boat included has a tendency to steam, for some strange reason i dont think the heat dis-appates fast enough from the thinner metals even though you think it would, i get in the back of the boats and rarely can i stick my hand on the tubes out because of the heat. this is where i think the steam is created, my boats trademark is steam out the back, it isnt an inboard but the manifold set-up is the same except for the thin wall tube going out the transom. Ive never thought twice about steam coming out the back, i watch the gauge like the guys at the big three watch the clock at quitting time (no pun Jim) if it heats up then i start looking for a problem, It may be some of the manifolds these guys have are a little thinner at the exhaust ports and as soon as water hits that area it turns into steam
"the things you own will start to own you"
Back to Top
87BFN owner View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: August-25-2006
Location: Ypsilanti, MI
Status: Offline
Points: 2194
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 87BFN owner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-31-2007 at 8:06pm
I was out the other morning plenty of steam cooler water temps and hot exhaust will do that. Yo do need to make sure when you see the steam that it is steam and not smoke. Water should be coming out with the steam If your not getting water you have a problem.
Back to Top
bwill14 View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie


Joined: May-11-2006
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 75
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bwill14 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-07-2008 at 12:54pm
I am the one that started this whole thing with my steam issue. I think I figured it out.

I was replacing my raw water pump impeller last weekend. When I went to take out the 3 small bolts, one of them was alrady broken. It had snapped about an 1/8 inch below the head. I was able to get the remainer out from the back side, since it is open. Replaced all three bolts and the new impeller. Took her out on Sunday afternoon, no steam and the manifolds and risers were cool enough to touch all day long.

I must have broke the bolt with my last bit of tightening and didn't even realize it. Pump was probably drawing some air from that section of the housing seam, not enough to make an engine temp issue, but enough to get the manifolds and risers hot. My raw water pump test came in at 21 seconds. I think I remember hearing that it should be under 20. So again, mine was close, but not quite enough.?.?
Brent
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page    <123
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Copyright 2024 | Bagley Productions, LLC