Complete Stringer/Floor replacement

Help, I bought a 1967 Mustang for a project for my son and I. New to this boat rebuilding stuff. Here are a few pics of it. I have the stringers in and the ski pylon bracing. Im looking for pics(1967 stang) if anybody has any of a complete stringer floor replacement. I want to make sure I do it right the 1st time.
On another note anybody used linex on the floor or some type of rhino lining? Thanks. BTW this site is awesome and am looking forward to posting my boat along the way as she comes alive.

20, Between your text and posting of pictures, use the "enter" key to go to the next line otherwise the whole post will be side to side rather than top to bottom. do this between all the pictures too.

Here's a 70's stringer system. It will not be the same as your 60's hull but may give you some ideas. Also note the half round drains between the bottom of the stringers and the hull. This is a must in my opinion because you will always get water in and this allows it to drain and not get trapped.

I'm not a big fan of the Rino lining because it looks so non original but that is me!! I just feel that since you are putting in so much work fixing the boat that every effort should be made to keep it as close as possible to original.

Keep the pictures comming!! You can go back in to your post and "enter" between the pictures and then update and it will change.

I am going the rhino lining route. I hate carpet because it holds moisture, which will eventually finds its way back into the stringers/floor. I am using a stuff called grizzly grip. $70/gallon and they have like 30 colors to choose from.

Pete i love it when you use those DOLLAR words........boat dr

SeeBee,

I'm no expert, although many of the guys on this site are so if I am wrong I know I will be corrected, but I would say the trailer looks period correct.

No way on the windshield. I have a 69 mustang and a 78 SkiTique, your windshield looks like the one on my Tique.

Good luck with your project. Everyone here is very helpful and very generous with their knowledge, and most of these guys know their stuff. The rest of us (like me!) learn a lot.

Mike

Great job on the stringers, everybody should do one,I will not do #2...
The only thing I would have done different on your boat is to remove the 'Kick Plate' at the front,and extend the floor althe way forward.I did this on my '64 to gain a little more floor/storage.
On my post Boat dr vs 1964 Amer skier @general Disc. you will see pics of my floor with a Teak ski locker door forward of the front seats. Best idea on the whole rebuild.4 life jackets and a throwable will fit under the floor,my drain plug is there too..............boat dr

Pete, I removed the floor from my Mustang and have started removing the foam as much of it is wet. Fortunately, the stringers appear sound. The secondary stringers appear sound except for about a 10" section just behind the engine on the port side. I plan on bolting two peices of wood to join this section together after I cut the rotting section out. A few peices of the strapping that goes perpendicular to the stringers needs replacement, but most of it is sound.

My goal for the fall is to get the foam out and allow to boat to dry out really well over the winter. I am hoping that this will be a relatively easy project, and I will have the floor back in early, so I can start working on the mechanics.

I'll have plenty of questions come spring, but right now I'm planning on not installing any foam and not worrying about lack of flotation. I'm also not planning on glassing the floor in, so I will need to provide support for the strapping where it meets the sides of the hull. Does it make sense to leave the foam under the strapping? Will it dry out?

I'm planning on using a thin marine carpet. I would prefer something original, like the rubber matting they used to use, but is this available?

Good idea on the holes. I can drill them so that they will become drain holes.

Sounds like you don't worry about lack of flotation.

I'm thinking that this boat will remain original except that it will have dark grey carpet going right up the sides of the hull. The floor covering I pulled out of it was like wall paper and was stapled down. It didn't look to durable and seemed to trap water underneath it.

Pete, I did catch what you said about the wall covering. I guess if it was glued down it wouldn't hold water. The boat had that in it, but it was stapled down and was really wet between it and the plywood.

I've got all winter to figure out the floor. My goal for the next few weeks before it gets too cold is to get all of the foam out,and inspect the stringers, so I can plan.

I'll take pics this weekend and post Monday.

Clint, Take a look at this picture of the stringer/frames. This will give you a idea of what is under what you are referring to the sub deck. (more wood and foam) If the stringers, floor and foam are original and you have cracks in the fiberglass then I guarantee that you have a problem. It does look like no work has ever been done. You must remove everything down to the hull and start over, Lots of people have done it and the job isn't that bad. You can find some good threads by using the search feature here plus we all are here to help. Covering up the cracks with epoxy will do nothing but seal in water that has already soaked in the wood and rotted it. I highly recommend doing some exploring. Remove some random spots in the fiberglass covering of the wood. A small hole saw works great. Open up the areas between the main stringers and the chines and look for wet foam. Some people have reported removing close to 400 lbs.




Clint, Put on your reading glasses on click on this link:stringer, floor and foam replacement
How's the engine?

Clint, Tim (TRbenj) is absolutely correct. I should have proof read my post. What I meant to say that IF you find any rot you should remove everything down to the hull but do some exploring FIRST. I personally would not take any chances that there are any rot spores left under the old fiberglass. As long as you are tearing into it I am recommending doing the whole stringer system. I would hate for you to get another bad spot 2 years from now and have to dig it all out again. How far you want to tear into it is your decision.

Gary S wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: I after years of searching in the normal places for the floor covering used in the late 60's and a few years into the 70's I found it. It is commercial vinyl wall covering. My '68 had a seperate fiberglass pan for the floor,but was in real bad shape.I got rid of it but now wish I still had it to use as a mold to make a new one.It had very small diamond shaped patern in it to make it non skid.It also had a raised outer edge to hold the side panels in and to keep water from getting under it and the glassed over foam.The motor area was flat so water could get to the bilge.

Reid would know the year it changed but yes, the early Mustangs had the fiberglass floor. I think 68 was the last glass floor and then the vinyl on ply. It's funny how a good idea comes back. You see lots of high end boats with the fiberglass floors and snap on carpet now.

73, What happened with the truck? Yes, I'm glad to here that no one got hurt.

I find that a friction cut-off blade in a electric or air powered die grinder works great. You can cut into and close to the hull with it as well. For the ultimate close quarter work,(corners) A Fein Multi-master is the tool! The hole saw can be used to check the wood at low points.

8122pbrainard wrote: Gary S wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: I after years of searching in the normal places for the floor covering used in the late 60's and a few years into the 70's I found it. It is commercial vinyl wall covering. My '68 had a seperate fiberglass pan for the floor,but was in real bad shape.I got rid of it but now wish I still had it to use as a mold to make a new one.It had very small diamond shaped patern in it to make it non skid.It also had a raised outer edge to hold the side panels in and to keep water from getting under it and the glassed over foam.The motor area was flat so water could get to the bilge. Reid would know the year it changed but yes, the early Mustangs had the fiberglass floor. I think 68 was the last glass floor and then the vinyl on ply. It's funny how a good idea comes back. You see lots of high end boats with the fiberglass floors and snap on carpet now.

If it's of any interest or value, I do know first hand that 68s thru 70s had the fiberglass floor plan. I don't know why it wasn't continued as it sure didn't rot, and there was no wood in the sub-floor below, just glass over the beloved foam. It didn't/doesn't provide a good bite for the seats to screw into and subsequently the glass and foam below was quickly and easily compromised. But what a durable finish.