Plywood Repair

Tim, I think you may be over slightly on the # of sheets of ply but you are on the safe side. I don't think the hull sides are over 24" so they only need 2 sheets. The transom as well as the dog house can be made from the middle of the deck ply. The deck is 1/4" and the transom is double 1/4". I routed all my fake seams in the deck after it was screwed to the boat. Yes, lots of routing templates!! Don't worry about the scarf landing on a curved surface. It is a very strong joint! As far as looking for a flat surface, I might investigate some cheapo kitchen counter top at the big box home centers.

If its any solice, I was awake at three this a.m. standing in the garage with a cup of coffee staring at her and considering my options.

BTW, I inquired on the scarfing at Boulter, and only asked about 16' because the boat is less than 16'. 15 something. Each side of the boat currently has three scarf joints. Likely to keep the scarf from landing on a complex curve and the added stress, but one scarf at 8' would be pretty much right before the would needs to bend and curve. I think I would need about 13 sheets of plywood to reskin bottom (4), sides(4), and decking(4), and transom (1). The topside has a planked look routed into the deck and motor box. Making a template for that would be interesting. My problem is I get caught up in trying to hammer out each detail prior to starting, and guess what...the boat has sat for 17 years.

I think you are on the right track with the jigs and fixturing. The most important thing is to start with a large flat suface that you can clamp the ply to. I too have been thinking about a router fastened to a carriage built from linear ball bearings set at the proper angle to get the bevel. The same flat clamping surface will also act as a clamping table.

The Grougion brothers who market the West system of epoxy do sell a attachment fence that goes on a hand held circular (skil) saw but I don't feel it would be any where close to the accuracy needed in this application. I keep thinking about the .020" face veneer!!

Edit; If they can scarf 2 sheet together to make up the nominal 16', I can't see why they wouldn't be able to put 3 sheets together. Harbor Sales was only limited by shipping so they could go 48'.

Greg, With your background, you should have a wood boat! Why not? Need some help finding one? Somethings going on in that mind of yours if you bought the book!!

Tim, Yes you are right that Okoume does not hold up. It rots easy so don't use it. It is only popular because it is being used for epoxy encapsulation boat building. It is a very open grain "tropical" wood so it soaks up the resin like a sponge. Maranti is a good choice and will stain and finish just like some of the true African or Honduran. (I think CC used Philippine) You will want to talk with Boulter about the process and make sure they know that one side will be decorative plus a bright finish. It worries me with the face veneer so thin. Unless they are able to get some ply with a very thick face and then touch sand after scarfing. If they can do it, let them!

Greg, The large equipment I was thinking about was made during the war when the PT boats and landing craft were being made out of plywood. Large molding machines to produce the tapered edges and large steam heated platen type presses to heat cure the phenolic glues at the scarfs. The last firm I used was Harbor sales out of Boston. They have pretty much gotten out of the plywood business and haven't done any scarfing in several years.

We all know that Higgins made mostly landing craft and a few PT boats but I heard that CC was making pontoon boats for pontoon bridges. Of coarse this is why CC made so many of their wood models from ply.

Heard that Boulter plywood in Somerville, MA could scarf plywood (16') and ship. I would need to call and confirm. Can you still get the original Honduran mahogany? I've read that the Okoume looks right, but doesn't hold up?

Most welcome!

I'm not in the circles that some of these guys are in, but I have been approached several times about 'fixing' a wooden boat. One was even a CC and I still know where it is...but it would have to be rebuilt in the purest sense of that word.

After thinking about it, I'd say you're 6 on 1 with the keeper on the wrong end!

LOL

Wow... I'm jealous! Not to swipe any of Pete's thunder, but IMHO you are way ahead of the curve. 3 on 1 with the keeper napping!

The only problem I see is the leviathon thingy in the bottom of the last pic?!!?


...and you might need to chain it to something heavy now that we've all had a look?!!?
LOL

62 wood wrote: 61Compact wrote: I am thinking I can bump up the power on the engine from the 144 85HP in her to say the 177 or the 200? Looking forward to your advice. Tim To address your engine question,is it flywheel-forward? My 64 has the 100hp /177 in it. It runs good right now, but If I ever have to "re-do" the engine ,I will put the 200 in. They are still around and usually cheap( I gave 25 bucks for mine this spring...a guy transplanting a v8 in a Maverick). If your going to the trouble of changing the engine, you might as well go to the biggest"direct" replacement you can, right? Try and get some pics of the ride posted!

Tim, I'll back up Steve's idea. Unless the larger ci version of the same block uses say a obviously bigger carb, a ACBS judge may not even pick up on it. There are lots of 350 blocks running in Chris Crafts that were originally 289's!

This is of coarse is getting ahead of things as the first thing is to deal with the hull after you get the approval from your wife!

Well I'm betting you live in CA and not too close to Pete, so for help, you need to read good and pay attention to Mr. Old school/orginal.

sorry Reid couldn't let HW rip Quinner again and mention anything about wood/plywood boats but who wanted on top.........HW??????

Eric, Thanks for setting me straight.

Peter, From what I recall the frame in my CC does not look like what you have in the posted piscture, but I will defer to your expertise and dig into it this weekend a bit. Pics to follow. I have the Glen-L book on building plywood boats. Same process? You make the effort sound time consuming, but not difficult. A complete restore might be a fun project. Boy is my wife gonna love this idea...

Here is a big mis-conception that needs an explanation, alot of guys know this but alot guys dont, the term freeze plug is not what those are they are actually cast plugs and have nothing to do with freezing. these holes are for draining sand when casted and were not put there in case the block freezes, in some instances in a lite freeze they will push out or even at times they will rust out, so next time some one tells you they are freeze plugs you can correct them.

Tim, Welcome to this fantastic site and a fellow CC owner. Any boat is repairable if you have the time. I am a owner of 2 plywood boats and one has bright finished (stain and varnish) hull sides like your Compact. I too have some dock dings and wish there was a easy way to just veneer over it but there isn't. I have struggled with this for many years and can go into great detail on why you can't do it but that can wait. The first thing I need to ask is how much time do you want to put into it and do you want to restore this boat or just make it run? On a restore, be prepared to take it down to this:

If you just want to run it, you do need to know that your dad gave the boat a early death sentence by fiberglassing the bottom 25 years ago. He, I'm sure didn't know it and there were alot of people doing it to their boats. It is a tempory fix at best to stop a bad bottom from leaking. Because it traps water, rot is accelerated. You have mentioned you do have some rot. Where?
If you want to do a restoration,I would like to encourage you to a "as close as possible as factory" restoration as possible. I'm noted as a purist and am criticized for it on occasion but with a wood boat I feel it's important. The value as well as the salabilty are related to it's being original. Do you have any pictures? We also have another member here that just picked up a compact. I'll see if I can link his threads but you can do a search for Bill Long or Compact Skier.

Edit: Here it is

Bills 62 compact

Hello. New to this site.

I have a 61 CC Compact Skier that I grew up skiing behind, and saved from getting sent to the dump. Boat has not seen water since 1990, and when last stored was not winterized. Freeze plugs didn't pop, so the block did. Amazingly it ran afterwards, but needs replacement. The boat is original mahogany ply on deck and sides. My dad fiberglassed the bottom up to the waterline 25 years ago. Still in good shape. Some dry rot to contend with, but nothing major. Question is this: The sides are pretty dinged up. Several bad patches and many scratches. I can't see how I'd actually remove and replace the ply. Any thoughts on veneering with 1/8" mahogany? Possibly strips? If I am adding weight, I am thinking I can bump up the power on the engine from the 144 85HP in her to say the 177 or the 200? Looking forward to your advice.