what distributor?

79nautique wrote: hate to tell you that DUI unit isn't any different than any other stock HEI dist from the 70's-80's module included, might use a module from a corvette motor set-up but that's about it.

I didnt claim it was a new design- but if it works, it works. Im unaware of any other HEI marine distributor made to work on Fords. Its true that standard GM HEI parts will drop right in, but the DUI module is better than the run-of-the-mill stuff you get at Autozone (I lost 200 RPM when I tried the cheap module).

79nautique wrote: The HEI is a good unit but it doesn't belong on a ford motor and with the Mallory it looks stock, is easier to re-curve for any cam/engine combination and has better performance overall and cost less so to me it's a no brainer, Mallory.

I think the DUI looks good on my motor, but to each their own. Both the Mallory and DUI can be recurved, but if you say the Mallory is easier Ill believe you. Id be curious to see if there was a performance difference between the 2- I havent seen that documented yet. I do know that I gained 200 RPM on a stock motor by going to the DUI, so that sold me. As for price, the $375 would have bought me either the DUI or the Unilite and a new coil, so it was basically a wash.

79nautique wrote: Oh what is that BS that just came out of your mouth Tim the DUI is only one wire, well not exactly, postive lead and a negative lead, what there isn't a neg lead on the DUI then what the f**k is that second wire for, oh the Tach you say, and what the f**k is that, a second lead that grounds the unit my friend.

Last time I checked, the tach signal wasnt a simple ground. By losing a few wires and the remote mounted coil, the DUI looks cleaner to me- but I certainly wouldnt call the stock set up messy. If I already had a good coil and plug wires, I wouldnt hesitate to go with the magnetic Mallory on a future project.

Ok, so what about Kelpos coil question. Sorta hard to find a place to mount anything but a round coil under the hood. Anyone using the Promaster series or anything other than the standard round style? Where are you mounting it?

I see your point on the Mallory, but not so much on the HEI. You can limit the advance with bushings that you put on the posts. As for the weights, you can grind on them til you get the curve you want, and play with springs. I did some grinding on the 'dog-leg' of the weights to give me more advance (I wasn't getting enough).

I wouldn't mind at all tuning the points or installing a conversion. I would love to see that boat in person anyway.

I guess you may be right on the Mallory/HEI argument (looks stock), but I really don't know why it's easier to recurve. It's just the HEI just comes naturally to me. You know, because I'm used to working on motors with REAL power.   Just a little banter to tick off all you Ford guys. I must say, I have been very impressed with the performance of my 351w.

jbear, I'm definitely not Chris, but I wouldn't mind at all taking a look at your boat for you. I'm in Lakeland, and I am near Lake Wales pretty often. What kind of problems are you having? Chris, I don't mean to try and step in, but I would help if I could.

Man I love it when you guys talk like this.

Chris; I am having trouble with my distributer again (I think) so please hurry back down here and get me fixed up. You know I have no chance of understanding all this.

john

79nautique wrote: efficiency =        lean mixture =            hotter engine temp =                      less fuel used =                             lower rpms performance =       rich mixture =           cooler engine temp =                     more gas used =                             high rpm = Like I said earlier the duration will not change due to the gap being increased.

Now I know we disagree

Your description of rich vs. lean may have some degree of truth to it, but it certainly does not tell the whole story. Did I mention that I dropped 4/8 jet sizes (front/rear) and picked up 200 RPM this year? That tells me there is such a thing as TOO rich. I couldnt find the quote, but I believe Gottaski said something about achieving the best performance by being just a tad richer than "too lean."

I agree that the a larger plug gap does not equate to a longer duration spark. However, it seems reasonable to me that the longer spark duration of the DUI (due to the cap and rotor design) does contribute to a more complete burn. The larger plug gap that can be run with the DUI probably has more to do with the higher output coil.

oops, just found this

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MAA%2D29440M&N=700+309367+115&autoview=sku

79nautique wrote: the only way to increase the duration is to use a wide rotor segment, you are able to open up the gap because of the high Kv rating of the coil not because of the module.

Agreed. That isnt to say that a longer duration spark isnt better though, is it?

79nautique wrote: Besides the only reason to open up the gap is fuel milage not performance.

Hmmm, you'll have to convice me on that one. My logic says that a hotter/stronger and longer (duration) spark will better ignite a lean mixture and provide a more complete burn- which would improve both economy/efficiency and performance.

79nautique wrote: The DUI site list the coil as 50Kv unit vs 55Kv for the Mallory promasters series coils.

So the Mallory has a hotter spark- what about duration? Thats what PerformanceDistributors is citing for their .055" recommended plug gap. Whats the recommended gap on the Mallory?

So the YLU is like the Unilite series for autos? Understood now, makes much sense. My coil is 50 or 60,000 volts, I will check when I get home. What kind of coil do you run with that? I know I have seen alot of discussions on here about what coil, ballast resistor/no ballast resistor etc. It gets me confused. Also, is it a 3 wire hookup? Tach, 12V, and ???

79, I'm curious why you say the mallory out performs the HEI. I know that you have designed ignition systems and know your way around the electronics, so I want to know your reasoning. I went with the HEI because I'm a GM nut and I know that dist. I did do some custom curving to get it where I want it, but it performs flawlessly. Please enrich and enlighten me.

79, i might be a newbie, but i am not a dipsh&^
i have wrenched all my life in some way or another, usually motorcycles.
my old distributor was in rough shape, and the gear was definately tight on the shaft. in the past and in this case, i find that using a nail with the head cut off works very well for roll pins if you dont have the correct diameter punch. i had to use a puller to get my gear off. one other concern, my old shaft has a spiriled groove around the shaft. it is directional, is that to keep the oil from traveling up the shaft?

fyi, i pulled the gear off the old dist. today, it was pressed on pretty good, not something i would want to do at a campground,

79nautique wrote: Allan I had the YLU unit and got the same run around at jegs, and called summit after a couple months, talked directly to a Mallory Distribution Center top dog about it and knew it was availible, he even confirm the order from JEG's but couldn't say weather it was mine or not. FYI, Mallory has a new numbering system so it's like a 9xxxxxx something number now might give that a shot. Might try Mallory marine's web site for the right number.

79, Mine came in from Summit last week, just haven't had a chance to put it in yet. It was ordered under the old numbering system, I'll still have to change the gear though. Hope thats an easy thing cause I intend to do it at the campground in Shelbyville friday morning.