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ideas on cleaning inside of gas tank

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darren gardner View Drop Down
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    Posted: December-28-2007 at 8:53pm
have out of hull gas tank from a 63 atom skier, has med amount of rust an crude in it. any sug on cleaning or chemical 2 use. thanks dg.
darren l gardner
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1969cc View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1969cc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-28-2007 at 9:05pm
Hi Darren

I would find a good local radiator repair shop since you have it out. I took mine in about 12 years ago and had it cleaned and repaired. A good shop will also pressure test it. Mine is still holding up.
Just a thought.
If you see light at the end of the tunnel you might be looking the wrong way

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bkhallpass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-28-2007 at 10:08pm
Originally posted by 1969cc 1969cc wrote:

Hi Darren

I would find a good local radiator repair shop since you have it out. I took mine in about 12 years ago and had it cleaned and repaired. A good shop will also pressure test it. Mine is still holding up.
Just a thought.


That would be my suggestion as well. I worked in a radiator shop for several years (put myself through college) and we did many, many gas tanks. Boil, clean, coat, and pressure test. BKH
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Tim D View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-28-2007 at 11:10pm
Check Eastwoods web site, they have cleaners and sealers for gas tanks.
Tim D
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote darren gardner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-28-2007 at 11:46pm
thanxs 1969cc 4 taking the time 2 reply. will check in2 it sat. thanxs dg
darren l gardner
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote behindpropeller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-08-2008 at 2:10pm
MEK and Some BB's is how we clean them on gummed up airplane tanks.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-08-2008 at 2:39pm
Originally posted by behindpropeller behindpropeller wrote:

MEK and Some BB's is how we clean them on gummed up airplane tanks.


Tim, You may have missed it that Darren has rust in the tank. With rust the radiator shop boil and lining as recommended previously is the way to go. I've had several antiques and classics done with the coating and have never had a problem. The big thing is it maintains the originality of the boat which is a big plus especially in a judged show. Cheaper than a new tank as well!!


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Riley View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-08-2008 at 3:10pm
I removed the tank from my Mustang. It has exterior rust, especially on the bottom corners, but the gas I dumped out of it was very clean. I ended up using it in my truck. I called a radiator shop and they wanted, IIRC about $450-$500 to coat it. Someone on CCF told me that Tempo makes new plastic tanks that are the same size for $150. They even offer a mechanical guage. I'll be ordering one come spring.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-08-2008 at 3:35pm
Originally posted by Riley Riley wrote:

$450-$500 to coat it.


Bruce, Did you tell them you had a big wad of money burning a hole in your wallet??? The last one I had done this summer was $200!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-08-2008 at 6:02pm
Pete, we've got 1 radiator shop in the area and I don't think he was very interested in the job.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bkhallpass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-08-2008 at 6:23pm
$450 seems high to me. Then again, I haven't worked in a radiator shop since 1985 (yes, I know 87BFN, you were 4 years old then:>). I don't know what the coating cost these days, but you shouldn't have more than a couple hours labor into it total.

The coating part is easy. You really just poor the coating in, and slosh around so all the inner surfaces are covered, drain any excess and let dry.

Boiling is what you can't do at home. First you have to flush out the tank really well. We used to run a hose in the tank for literally a couple of hours. Only takes a little bit of gas to blow up when you're trying to drop into the radiator boil tank. Once all the gas is out, you're still pretty nervous when you put the gas tank into the boil tank. Boils for about an hour, maybe more if you're working on radiators, then pull and rinse thoroughly. Pressure test for leaks and solder/repair if necessary. Let dry really well before coating.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote behindpropeller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-08-2008 at 6:49pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by behindpropeller behindpropeller wrote:

MEK and Some BB's is how we clean them on gummed up airplane tanks.


Tim, You may have missed it that Darren has rust in the tank. With rust the radiator shop boil and lining as recommended previously is the way to go. I've had several antiques and classics done with the coating and have never had a problem. The big thing is it maintains the originality of the boat which is a big plus especially in a judged show. Cheaper than a new tank as well!!


Yeah I missed that. If my classic tank was rusty I would fab a new one out of aluminum, 5052 is good for tanks.

Tim

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-09-2008 at 7:42am
Bruce, Before you go and get a plastic tank, I would look at some of the do-it-yourself systems. I do know that some of us into the antique and classics have gone this route and have had good luck with them. The kits come with cleaners and etching liquids for preping the tank. I just did a search and came up with this one:
gas tank sealer

Tim, If you replace your classic tank with a alumininum, would you still consider it a classic? The judges wouldn't!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-09-2008 at 11:45am
Pete, I don't know that my tank has any problems, other than it is 42 years old and is rusty on the exterior. (Well, one problem now is that it is outside, up side down, under 30" of snow and now it is raining.) The gas I dumped out was so clean I put it in my trunk, but for $150.00 why not replace it with a new one? I know it's not original, but why try to preserve something that if it fails, can cause big problems.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-09-2008 at 12:19pm
Bruce, If the inside is in good shape, I would keep it and paint the outside. If the outside was originally tern plate (lead plated) then you can paint with a spray on cold galvanizing and it will look just like the original. I did this on my Atom.

cold galvanizing

Some of the tanks in the 60's were primed only. If so, "rusty metal red" primer will match.

I need to get you into the "keep it original" mode!!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-09-2008 at 1:24pm
One more thing to think about, Pete. Although I got to tell you, if I'm going to consider using it, I wish I hadn't "stored" it where I did.

In a couple months, I will be back to working on it, and the big job will be either replacing the outer port stringer, or scab rigging a sister into place.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-09-2008 at 1:50pm
Bruce, I don't like the sistering idea. I don't think that it would require that much more work once you have dug into the boat that far to replace the stringer. You want the engine sitting on something solid and strong and not relying on a member next to the engine mounts.

Sorry to here that the CC was put into winter storage. You should have put your other boat (no brand mentioned) in it's place so you could have worked on the CC! Don't worry, spring will come soon.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-09-2008 at 2:30pm
I can get at the boats. It's just to darn cold to work on them. I'll be calling you this spring for guidence with the floor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-11-2008 at 7:46pm
Here's my old tank and the Tempo replacement.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2008 at 12:40pm
Tim, or anyone familar with a Tempo tank, how did you secure it? Are there any problems where it needs some sort of strapping?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SkiBum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2008 at 3:40pm
If you are still considering cleaning the inside of the gas tank...I watched an episode of "trucks" where the host found an old truck in some guys yard. He brought it back to life. One of the things he did was restore the fuel cell. He bought a kit from some company. In the kit were a few chemicals (don't know what they were, probably bad for the environment, cause cancer, and are flammable) and a length of chain.

This guy poured in a bottle of some strange liquid and dropped the chain into the tank. Then he swooshed (not sure if that is a verb or not) the tank for a few minutes. After, he removed the chain and drained out the chemical.

In the end, this was supposed to remove the rust scales and treat the remaining rust. Then another chemical swooshed around provided some sort of finish.

The kit wasn't that expensive. Looked like it would work okay.
Bill
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www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote critter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2008 at 5:05pm
I used something like this on my Motorcycle tank.
The 1st chemical was to clean the inside of the tank. The 2nd was to etch the inside of the tank. The 3rd was a coating that covered the inside of the tank.
With each chemical I had to really move the tank around to make sure that all area of the inside of the tank was covered.
It was inexpensive and did the job but it was only a motorcycle tank.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2008 at 8:54pm


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote anthonylizardi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2008 at 9:50pm
POR-15 this product is the best IMO. A friend of mine suggested. My motorcycle tank has a little bit rust at the bottom. I pour their rust remover and it was so powerful that actially opened some holes at the bottom where rust was almost thru. I patch it with their kit and then pour "Metal Ready" to improve adhesion and then the tank mix. Two years and no problem. Is rock solid. These product really amazed me. If you want to do it yourself you won't go wrong with this. Some body paint shop have them in stock. They also have paints but I haven't try them.
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