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1977 ski dashboard wiring diagram

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77nautique View Drop Down
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    Posted: February-04-2008 at 5:47pm
I am looking for a wiring diagram for the electrical work under the dash as well as a detailed pic of an original dash so i can figure out what i need to do first as my situation is a little messed up. Switches and gauges are not in the right place, are broken, are missing, or are loose. Thanks!
David Lewis

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2008 at 7:47am
David, Here's a link to the diagram that popped up from doing a search. I knew it wasn't that long ago but just couldn't remember the thread!!

wiring diagram

For gauge location, take a look in the diaries for a picture of the dash. I'd be happy to post a picture of mine but it is 300 miles away hibernating fot the winter.


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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brktracer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2008 at 10:32am
My 76 was a disaster when I started also. The previous owner had removed switches and wires were hanging. Some wires were even cut or crimped to other wires. Luckily all the gauges were in place and connected. I've never understood why people feel the need to jump in and start moving wires all around. As restorers it makes our lives challenging!

Something you might consider while you're in there is to remove the old ammeter and replace it with a voltmeter. The problem with the ammeter is all the power for your boat must travel through the gauge. Many times the gauge becomes a source of problems from a resistance standpoint. Sometimes it is due to a worn out gauge and sometimes poor connections. The problem is the ammeter can overheat causing more resistance and more heat. It's a downward spiral from there. I have actually burned my hand on ammeters before! Older Chrysler/Plymouth cars used the ammeter and many were plagued with wiring problems as a result. You can find more information at www.madelectrical.com if you're interested.

Changing to a voltmeter is acceptable and will give you plenty of information about the charging system without having to pass all the system current.

Just something to consider.

Matt
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2008 at 12:06pm
Don't d*ck around with replacing the Ampmeter with a volt meter. Not only do you have to jack with the dash wiring you have to change the engine wiring as well. Don't create a problem when there isn't a problem and don't relate a POS chrysler issue with a nonexistant CC issue. Beside a Ampmeter is a much better gage to the electrical systems performance than a volt meter ever can be.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2008 at 12:21pm
Chris, have to disagree on the Ampmeter VS Voltmeter issue..
Two reasons for my veiws on this matter..
#1 All the amperage has to leave the alt. go forward to the guage and then a return path to the battery.Old wire , bad connections along with high resistance = HEAT.Heat ,plastic and fuel make for one hell of a FIRE......

#2 A voltmeter tells the state of charge, or actual Voltage that is stored in the battery. Kinda like a fuel guage for the battery, it will also show the actual voltage being sent to the battery, 14 volts or better will show that you are charging.Any reading below this says " you are removing faster than you adding" and there may be a problem................

Ever wonder why they no longer use this type set up with all modern charging systems???
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2008 at 1:25pm
If you have bad wiring you have bad wiring Doc so If the wire is in good condition, it better be, and it is sized properly then there isn't anything to worry about.

the volt meter only tells you that the alternator is putting out X volts does not tell you it is going to the battery doesn't tell you that the battery is at X volts, That's an assumption and you know what assumptions are, a**holes waiting to appear,

why are there not any in cars anymore... never knew they ever where installed from the factory in any American car to start with.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2008 at 1:55pm
Chris, do your research about old cars and ampmeters......
My biggest issue here is that most all Delco and Motorola OEM alt. put out a max amperage of 35 amps, This is about all a #10 wire will handle.
Any aftermarket unit that is purchased today will max out at between 65 for the base 10SI delco to 110 for upgraded version.
This is my point,If you shove 65 amps down a #10 wire you are asking for problems, increase the draw in any way and you have the potetial for SMOKE...........
Old saying in the boating world;
It aint hard to let the smoke out of a wire, but try to put it back IN..........Boat dr
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2008 at 2:00pm
Originally posted by boat dr boat dr wrote:

35 amps, This is about all a #10 wire will handle.
Any aftermarket unit that is purchased today will max out at between 65 for the base 10SI delco to 110 for upgraded version.
This is my point,If you shove 65 amps down a #10 wire you are asking for problems, increase the draw in any way and you have the potetial for SMOKE

A 10awg wire is rated to carry 55A, but I wouldnt push it that far. Youre right- a 65A alt should use at least 8awg (73A max) and a 110A alt should use 4awg (135A max).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2008 at 2:58pm
Tim, hopefully you are on the same page as me...
Most boaters do not know the rating on their alt,nor do they care till they smell smoke.
The easier softer way for the boat dr. would be tie both wires together on the batt. side of a volt meter, then run a new 4 or 8 ga. wire directly from the output side of the alt. directly to the starter solenoid.
This will solve the problem easier and with less wire than with the "old ampmeter wiring circuit"........
Golly Gee Tim We Agree on somethings...
Not on your choice of props but somethings.........Boat dr
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 77nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2008 at 3:56pm
Thanks for the diagram Brainard, long time, how are you doing these days?

Last summer i dropped in an AC Delco 100a alt. and kept the amp meter running as i did not know to change..... This past weekend i updated the dash with a volt meter, i think it is a teleflex. Rewired exactly the same way as the amp meter, tried to fire up the boat, no go..... i was getting flickers from the needles on most gauges, but no turn on the engine....

I do not have an hour meter, just a hole in the dash. SO i grabbed one of the loose wires that should be hooked up to an hour meter and attached it to the back of the volt meter, then the boat started up not a problem.... Then when i turned the key off, the engine did not turn off. I think i need to get under the dash and do alot more than i thought.

I also just picked up stereo equipment- this is what i am putting in. 2 tower cans loaded with polk audio 6.5". 2 infinity kappa 6/5" for the interior( have to build some type of box), a sony head unit, a kicker 10" sub in a marine enclosed box, and last a soundstream amp to push the kicker sub. I believe my 100 a alternator is fine, but i am sure i will need a second battery, thoughts?
David Lewis

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2008 at 4:11pm
Originally posted by 77nautique 77nautique wrote:

I believe my 100 a alternator is fine

I think i need to get under the dash and do alot more than i thought.

The alt may be fine, but it sounds like your wiring is a serious fire hazard (in addition to being intermittently functional). If youre planning on keeping the voltmeter, you'll want to make sure that everything is wired correctly using this schematic. Like I mentioned in my last post, the wire running from the alt to the dash needs to either be A) sized to handle the full current rating of the alternator (4 awg for 100A) or B) fused appropriately (under the max rating of the wire and as close to the alternator as possible). Otherwise, you run the risk of setting your boat on fire.

Get the boat safe first, then worry about adding a second battery.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2008 at 4:27pm
Sometimes I am amazed as to the priorities set down as it applies to safety vs.entertainment. 77Nautique stated it all too plainly.....
Pick up a copy of The Talking Heads to play while on your shakedown cruise,,,,,,,
Track #4 is BURNING DOWN THE HOUSE

Most boaters have never seen a boat burn to waterline, nor do they think it will happen to them.This is a sad but true mindset that is rampant in today's boating world ..........
Just my .02 worth of knowledge...Boat dr
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2008 at 4:29pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Originally posted by 77nautique 77nautique wrote:

I believe my 100 a alternator is fine

I think i need to get under the dash and do alot more than i thought.

The alt may be fine, but it sounds like your wiring is a serious fire hazard (in addition to being intermittently functional). If youre planning on keeping the voltmeter, you'll want to make sure that everything is wired correctly using this schematic. Like I mentioned in my last post, the wire running from the alt to the dash needs to either be A) sized to handle the full current rating of the alternator (4 awg for 100A) or B) fused appropriately (under the max rating of the wire and as close to the alternator as possible). Otherwise, you run the risk of setting your boat on fire.

Get the boat safe first, then worry about adding a second battery.



and don't forget to revise the wiring at the back of the motor as they are not connected to the start relay and from the wiring harness for a Voltmeter application as they are with an Ampmeter application. Thus your wiring issue under the dash as well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 77nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2008 at 4:53pm
Boat Dr.

You do not seriously think i am throwing the stereo into the mix of my hazardous electrical situation, not happening. Just picked up all of the equipment off of EBAY for so cheap that i could not pass up. The stereo is the last thing to go in.

In reading all of this, i realize the job is big, but does not sound too difficult. Sounds like a nice Saturday afternoon to handle the task.
David Lewis

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2008 at 5:29pm
Not big but takes some care, even with the right wire terminations can be a problem that can cause excessive heat buildup moreso with corrosion. Make sure you make proper crimps on your terminations ( I usually solder them as well) and use some good heat shrink). As for the extra battery I doubt you will need it unless you really want to crank music multiple hours without starting the motor. I ran two amps off one blue top all last year without an issue probably at least for an hour and half a few times.

I have seen 3 boats burned down to the water line, two were brand new and under warranty with electrical problems and one was pretty new and the owner had voided his warranty by improperly installing a cigarette lighter to let his kids add a portable cd player to the factory stereo... he didn't even have insurance.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brktracer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2008 at 5:33pm

Check out these articles when you have some spare time.

Ammeter vs Voltmeter:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

3 wire alternators:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/remotevoltagesensing.shtml

Matt
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brktracer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2008 at 5:36pm
Originally posted by JoeinNY JoeinNY wrote:

I have seen 3 boats burned down to the water line


...and I was only worried about making it back to the dock!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2008 at 6:40pm
Originally posted by Brktracer Brktracer wrote:


Check out these articles when you have some spare time.

Ammeter vs Voltmeter:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

3 wire alternators:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/remotevoltagesensing.shtml

Matt


well why don't we just take sh*t out of context and apply stupidity to it to boot. Then lets go a little further and compare apples to organges too please quit bringing up unrelated issues that Dodge has on a a very piss poor designed system. f**k it even goes on to say GM used a different style system all together without any issues. So I guess if you have an old Dodge truck you better not upgrade the electrical system. But to Say that you are going to have the same issue with a CC that's complete bullsh*t.

never have I had any issue with the amp gauge in a boat or car, with or without a high power alternator or stereo system. The only time I've seen one smoke was when I forgot to use insulators around the mounting bracket and arced it and melted the wires to the gauge when I was 16.
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