Forums
NautiqueParts.comNautiqueSkins.com - Correct Craft Upholstery and Part
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - db electrical alternator
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Register Register  Login Login

db electrical alternator

 Post Reply Post Reply Page    <123>
Author
dans View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: March-23-2006
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 187
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-20-2008 at 6:49pm
I was running a 110 amp alt with small factory wires on my c1500 . I was pushing 600 watts at 2 ohms & I was ok. I upgraded my sound system to a 2000 watt wired at 1 ohm & the 110 alt was fine with a red top battery. After a few friends fried there alts in competitions I upgraded to a 200 amp DB alt before I ran into problems.Now I only upgraded the wires to zero gauge when I got the 200 amp alt . The reason for the fused (200 fuse)power o gauge to the battery is obvious.The zero gauge wire for the battery post negative to chassis & the zero gauge ground wire from motor to chassis is to eliminate ground loop noise.Hence "the big three upgrade".This is really for big systems with big amps, but if you have lots of noise coming in the speakers on pause or an alternator whine while the motor is reving this ground wire upgrade will fix it.On a boat the 4 gauge fused power wire can't hurt for the 100amp alt.The 4 gauge ground wire upgrade for the alt can't hurt either.It will eliminate ground loop noise & prevent a fire at best.
Back to Top
79nautique View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: January-27-2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 7872
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-20-2008 at 6:51pm
Originally posted by boat dr boat dr wrote:

Too many hours in the sun or too many Buds.
Both units are rebuildable with many thousands under my belt.
The stators are attached to the bridge diode with 10/32 screws, these also hold the regulator and the diode trio in place. That is the device that turns off the idiot light on the dash.
All the 10SI stators are wired in the delta config.The size of the winding are larger.
No Chris i was not in the think tank that did the designing, I was the one in the Alternator shop that did the rebuilding. Heat was and is the KILLER of these units, the insulators that wrap around the stator winding deteriorate and allow the stator to short to the core.
They will not allow enough cooling air thru the housing , design flaw from the engineers.
I stand by my statement as to above.....


don't confuse the CS series of alternators to the SI series of alternators they are not the same. Never said that they could not be rebuilt said they where not designed to be rebuilt due to the assemble methods. The stator is welded directly the the bridge assemble of which the diode trio is intragal to it on the SI design, unlike the CS series they are screwed and have ring terminals on them.
Back to Top
TRBenj View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: June-29-2005
Location: NWCT
Status: Offline
Points: 21104
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-20-2008 at 6:58pm
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

now leave the blower on for a couple hours to draing the battery. Start the boat and watch the amp meter and record the highist reading. bet it's not over 20 amps. Now replace the alt with a 100A unit and do the same thing and 100 bucks say's you will see the same amp reading on the gauge around 20A's

So if I listen to Tim a 100A alt is going to charge a battery faster but how is that possible when they both have the same amount of current going into the battery yet the one alt has almost double the amp rating?

I didnt say that.

I can come up with a reasonable scenario where its true, though. Take that same situation and add the draw of a second battery thats been run down by a stereo system with the engine off, plus the load of the stereo that continues to play after starting the boat. Will the alt still put out a maximum of 20A, or will it be greater than that? If a 55A alt was struggling to power all of the accessories with the boat running, wouldnt a 100A alt charge the batteries more quickly? People who use their boats like this are the ones who are upgrading their electrical systems with multiple batteries and high output alternators. (...not usually by people who forget to turn off their blowers.)

All of this is neither here nor there. My statement above holds true. If upgrading the alt, the wiring to the dash needs to be upgraded or fused, and the engine breaker needs to be sized appropriately to take advantage of the alternator output current.
Back to Top
8122pbrainard View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: September-14-2006
Location: Three Lakes Wi.
Status: Offline
Points: 41040
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-20-2008 at 7:12pm
Let's take the battery out of the argument and simply state "load". If you have a 100amp load and the alternator is putting out 100amps then wiring that is too small will heat up and you will have a problem.


54 Atom


77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<
Back to Top
Jim_In_Houston View Drop Down
Platinum Member
Platinum Member


Joined: September-06-2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 1120
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim_In_Houston Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-20-2008 at 8:54pm
I don't care what any of you say, I can piss farther than all of you.
Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
Back to Top
8122pbrainard View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: September-14-2006
Location: Three Lakes Wi.
Status: Offline
Points: 41040
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-20-2008 at 9:59pm
Originally posted by Jim_In_Houston Jim_In_Houston wrote:

I don't care what any of you say, I can piss farther than all of you.




54 Atom


77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<
Back to Top
05 210 View Drop Down
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Avatar

Joined: February-17-2006
Location: Southern Maine
Status: Offline
Points: 1481
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 05 210 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2008 at 12:01am
I'm not arguing anyones point here,but just curious.If you are running the amp directly off the battery,and not thru the ignition switch wiring,why would it be affected?I can see the point about trying to pull too many amps thru a small gauge wire and starting a fire before the breaker trips,but isn't the amount of amperage travelling thru a wire based on the demand from the electrical loads on that particular circuit? I must be missing something and it's probably right in front of me,I'm certainly no electrical guru. Tim,did you modify the schematic on the last page?

    Mike
Air Nautique 210 Team

640 hours, not 1 regret
Back to Top
nuttyskier2002 View Drop Down
Gold Member
Gold Member


Joined: September-28-2005
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 669
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nuttyskier2002 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2008 at 2:12am
Originally posted by wakeboardin2k4 wakeboardin2k4 wrote:

So I bit the bullet and ordered a 100 amp 3 wire alternator from DB. Now comes the rewire of the current wires to a larger gauge. I will do a search for posts about that. If anyone knows a good one off hand could you post it?


Wake, is your new alternator an SI series or is a a Mando? If it's an SI series the #1 wire is wired to the ignition switch through a diode (diode points to alternator). The #2 wire is a sense wire for the voltage regulator. Lots if times it's looped straight over to the B+ post on the alternator. Since you're powering audio amps I'd definitely increase the size of the current carrying wire from the alt to the Batt. Increased load (amps) calls for increased wire size.....sorry Chris.....that's just the way it is!
95 Malibu Echelon w/Mercruiser 350 Magnum Skier

Former boats:
88 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II
59 Chris Craft Capri (woody)
Back to Top
nuttyskier2002 View Drop Down
Gold Member
Gold Member


Joined: September-28-2005
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 669
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nuttyskier2002 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2008 at 2:28am
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

besides the 10si and 12si units where never design to be repairable that's why the stator leads are welded to the bridge assembly and why there is a plastic cover on the side slip ring end or SRE as it was called on the drawings and was made up of the SRE housing, bridge asm, diode trio, regulator, stator, brush holder asm and the DE or drive end contand the De housing, rotor asm and pulley.


Chris, I think you have your alternators crossed somewhere. Every 10 or 12SI alternator I've torn apart (and that's quite a few of them) have all had ring terminals on the stator windings which are secured to the rectifier posts (3 of them) with nuts. The bearings, brushes, rectifier, regulator, diode trio and stator were all replaceable. There's even a screen kit available to convert this alternator to a marine unit.
95 Malibu Echelon w/Mercruiser 350 Magnum Skier

Former boats:
88 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II
59 Chris Craft Capri (woody)
Back to Top
boat dr View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: June-27-2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 4245
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2008 at 2:46am
nutty, let that dog sleep.I know and you know, but we did not design them so that makes us the dumb ******** for the day.
I too have had a few apart on the bench, hopped up a few and saw many die a smokey death, all related to heat related failures.
The design flaw of not enough air flow to cool the bridge/stator assy.
But what do I know, just a tech.You are a dumb ********** too come to think of it, glad to see I have friends of like standings,lol..........Boat dr
Back to Top
nuttyskier2002 View Drop Down
Gold Member
Gold Member


Joined: September-28-2005
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 669
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nuttyskier2002 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2008 at 3:01am
I'm there for ya BD!
95 Malibu Echelon w/Mercruiser 350 Magnum Skier

Former boats:
88 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II
59 Chris Craft Capri (woody)
Back to Top
boat dr View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: June-27-2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 4245
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2008 at 3:09am
Birds of a feather.........
Do you ever wonder how a dog can gain so much info by smelling another dogs ass, but with humans we just have to open our mouth??????
Back to Top
jbear View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: January-21-2005
Location: Lake Wales FL.
Status: Offline
Points: 8193
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2008 at 3:24am
Wow...a J_I_H sighting.....you must be only lurking now-a-days.
We need ya posting more Jim....your special brand of humor.

john
"Loud pipes save lives"



AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"...
Back to Top
TRBenj View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: June-29-2005
Location: NWCT
Status: Offline
Points: 21104
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2008 at 11:40am
Originally posted by 05 210 05 210 wrote:

   I'm not arguing anyones point here,but just curious.If you are running the amp directly off the battery,and not thru the ignition switch wiring,why would it be affected?I can see the point about trying to pull too many amps thru a small gauge wire and starting a fire before the breaker trips,but isn't the amount of amperage travelling thru a wire based on the demand from the electrical loads on that particular circuit? I must be missing something and it's probably right in front of me,I'm certainly no electrical guru. Tim,did you modify the schematic on the last page?

    Mike

Mike, the schematic I posted was one option on how to modify the stock electrical system when adding a second battery and a higher output alt. The other option would be to delete the 50A breaker and replace the 10awg wire to the dash with a 4awg.

Youre right that there should be no increased load from the dash if everything is wired directly to the battery (as it should be). However, if a short occurs between the alt and dash, that wire either needs to be fused (its not fused from the factory) or be large enough to handle the maximum current from the alt. Leaving an unfused 10awg wire attached to a 100A alt (even if you dont expect there to be a load on the end of it) is a safety hazard. Thats why the factory put a 10awg wire attached to a 35A alt (10awg can safely carry up to 55A), even though the dash breaker is only 20A.
Back to Top
79nautique View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: January-27-2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 7872
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2008 at 2:30pm
this is what I'm refering to

now if thats the CS so be it I have it backwards after not working there for 15 yrs.

what gauge wire is used between the alternator and start relay? your schematic states 4 awg or has that been changed from the factory.
Back to Top
TRBenj View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: June-29-2005
Location: NWCT
Status: Offline
Points: 21104
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2008 at 2:40pm
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:


what gauge wire is used between the alternator and start relay? your schematic states 4 awg or has that been changed from the factory.

Not sure. That diagram is how I would modify the stock system to accomodate a second battery and upgraded alt.
Back to Top
boat dr View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: June-27-2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 4245
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2008 at 3:01pm
Chris , I would assume this is as close as we will get to:
For once in my life I was wrong,you guys were correct.There is a major difference between a 10SI and the the unit pictured.
We accept and we will move on.........
           Boat Dr
Back to Top
79nautique View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: January-27-2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 7872
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2008 at 3:02pm
so then tell me on 70'S-80'S models, the pos lead from the alt goes straight to the starter relay after it goes through the Curcuit breaker, correct? and the battery lead goes straight to the starter relay, correct? are they on the same post of the starter relay?
Back to Top
Bremsen View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: June-26-2005
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 171
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bremsen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2008 at 3:33pm
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

are they on the same post of the starter relay?
IIRC, yes. With the stock wiring the dash lead is not fused between the alt and the dash, which is why Tim has put the stock 55A breaker on the 10awg.


Not to beat a dead horse but this is exactly the point everyone is trying to make:
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

the number of accesories in use at one time is what creates the load on the alternator

I think we're all assuming that anyone looking at purchasing a 100A alternator is doing so b/c they have, or plan on, increasing the current draw with stereo amplifiers, ballast pumps, etc. You wouldn't need a 100A alt simply to replace an aging/faulty one.
Back to Top
TRBenj View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: June-29-2005
Location: NWCT
Status: Offline
Points: 21104
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2008 at 3:36pm
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

so then tell me on 70'S-80'S models, the pos lead from the alt goes straight to the starter relay after it goes through the Curcuit breaker, correct? and the battery lead goes straight to the starter relay, correct? are they on the same post of the starter relay?

This diagram works for 83 1/2 and newer PCM's (when they made the switch to internally regulated alternators).



The dash is fed directly by the alt. It does not go through the breaker. Only the charging circuit (alt-->batt) goes through the breaker. Thats why the breaker needs to be upsized to handle the max current of the alt. I believe the main purpose of the breaker is to protect the wiring system from the battery (which can source A LOT of current). The only unprotected wiring is between the battery, solenoid and starter.
Back to Top
79nautique View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: January-27-2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 7872
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2008 at 3:44pm
Ok I'll take that as correct Tim and Doc,

So since we have multiple batteries that need this extra current to charge then and they are creating this huge load on the electrical system aka Alternator. So we need double the current that was there before because we have two batteries now. Explain to me have all of this current is going through the dash and wiring harness and causing this fire hazzard because the wire gauge is too small from the factory for a 100A alternator.

So is it true that electricity takes the path of least resistance?

what has less resistance 0 awg or 6 awg wire. The 0 awg wire does right? so then since the path of least resistance is the 0 awg wire and the alternator wire is connected directly to this wire how can the load created from these draing batteries/high power amp connected to the batteries going to flow through the dash panel wiring and burn down the boat when it doesn't travel though the dash wiring harness? So if it doesn't travel though the dash why do I need to increase the size of the wire going to it when all of the current is going through the battery cable connected to the alternator wire at the starter relay? (path of least resistance basic electricity) I'm missing how the boat is going to short and melt down and cause a fire because the dash wiring harness has failed?

with the logic you are trying to peddle it would imply that all wires within the electrical system could see the full amperage output from the alternator and that's just not the case. And with your logic the battery is not going to be charged until the current passes throught the ignition switch and the dash panel before it ever reaches the battery. Again this is just not true or how the electrical system works. The current going to the dash is not going to change just because you increase the output of the alternator, you haven't changed any of the loads in the wiring curcuit so the load is the same as it was before the upgrade. Oh so now we are going to add a stereo that wasn't there before ok fine now we have increased the load because now we have to power the head unit so maybe now the load increase by about 10 amps maybe well within the capacity of the current wire, but hey what a minute we have amps too, well ok that's fine, what are the wired to? the battery directly not the dash or ignition switch so that current passes through the battery cable right.

So if I am not creating more load at the dash than what all ready is there why do I have to increase the wire size, I don't.
Back to Top
eric lavine View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah


Joined: August-13-2006
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 13413
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2008 at 3:45pm
just to throw a log on the fire, this is why you dont remove the battery cables while the engine is running to check if your altenator is working, the altenator senses voltage amp drop and then this full fields the altenator.
ive had the voltage regulators go bad and the DVA will read 20 volts and the battery will be smoking ans boiling, it can bombared the battery with amps either, just like a battery charger...trickle charge slowly charges the battery and boost blasts it with amps which will shorten the life
"the things you own will start to own you"
Back to Top
79nautique View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: January-27-2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 7872
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2008 at 3:47pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:


The dash is fed directly by the alt. It does not go through the breaker. Only the charging circuit (alt-->batt) goes through the breaker.


wrong

I suggest you refer to the wiring diagram in the PCM manual and not an edited diagram that is not completely correct and you will see the batter cable, alternator pos lead, and the pos lead for the ignition switch all go to the same post on the solenoid/relay.
Back to Top
TRBenj View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: June-29-2005
Location: NWCT
Status: Offline
Points: 21104
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2008 at 4:13pm
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:


The dash is fed directly by the alt. It does not go through the breaker. Only the charging circuit (alt-->batt) goes through the breaker.


wrong.

Wanna bet? Why dont you go look at your boat and check. Oh thats right you dont even own a Correct Craft, dump a**.

Sorry, couldnt help myself.

Here is the engine wiring diagram out of the '89 PCM manual.



This diagram leaves a lot to be desired. The physical connections are unclear or incorrect (in reality, the alt does not connect to the ignition wiring at the ballast resistor), so before making my wiring diagram above, I traded several emails and phone calls with Vince from SkiDIM. This is a better PCM diagram that he sent me.



This should show the breaker connections a little more clearly. I have verified that this is how my '90 was wired.

Before I started sharing my diagram, Vince verified it, as did the members here with this thread. Thanks for the input back then, Mr. Expert.

As far as the load of extra accessories not going through the dash (assuming theyre wired directly to the batter), youre correct. Thats exactly what I said. You need to go back and read my response to Mike (05 210) above.
Back to Top
Bremsen View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: June-26-2005
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 171
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bremsen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2008 at 4:22pm
I don't see any circuit breaker in the PCM diagram either. I guess that means I should just remove it.

I know that on my boat, the main POS lead off the alternator and the main dash lead were located on the same terminal on the circuit breaker. The battery and starter were the only protected ciruits. I don't believe it had ever been touched.
Back to Top
79nautique View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: January-27-2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 7872
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2008 at 4:28pm
I can't see the picture now, RR filters it out, put I don't understand whats hard to read in the diagram to figure out where everything is connected looks pretty clear to me and I didn't see any posting by me on your wiring diagram topic link you posted.
Back to Top
TRBenj View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: June-29-2005
Location: NWCT
Status: Offline
Points: 21104
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2008 at 4:40pm
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

I can't see the picture now, RR filters it out, put I don't understand whats hard to read in the diagram to figure out where everything is connected looks pretty clear to me and I didn't see any posting by me on your wiring diagram topic link you posted.

Like I said, thanks for the help putting my diagram together.

In the PCM manual, the electrical connections are correct, but the physical connections depicted are misleading. For example, the alternator does not connect to the ballast resistor like the diagram shows (though it is electrically equivalent). Its also difficult to tell which wires connect to which posts on the starter solenoid. The second diagram is much clearer.

When youre able to see the pics, be sure to tell us if you still think the alt goes through the breaker on the way to the dash. Reference connections #22 and #23.
Back to Top
Hollywood View Drop Down
Moderator Group
Moderator Group
Avatar

Joined: February-04-2004
Location: Twin Lakes, WI
Status: Offline
Points: 13510
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2008 at 4:43pm
Originally posted by Bremsen Bremsen wrote:

I know that on my boat, the main POS lead off the alternator and the main dash lead were located on the same terminal on the circuit breaker. The battery and starter were the only protected ciruits. I don't believe it had ever been touched.


So you're basically combining Tim and Chris's arguments here.

Tim says dash needs to be protected from the battery by the breaker, which it is. Chris says it does not need to be protected from the alternator. So basically Tim's diagram needs the orange alt output on the other side of the 50A engine breaker.
Back to Top
TRBenj View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: June-29-2005
Location: NWCT
Status: Offline
Points: 21104
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2008 at 4:48pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

Originally posted by Bremsen Bremsen wrote:

I know that on my boat, the main POS lead off the alternator and the main dash lead were located on the same terminal on the circuit breaker. The battery and starter were the only protected ciruits. I don't believe it had ever been touched.


So you're basically combining Tim and Chris's arguments here.

Tim says dash needs to be protected from the battery by the breaker, which it is. Chris says it does not need to be protected from the alternator. So basically Tim's diagram needs the orange alt output on the other side of the 50A engine breaker.

No, he's confirming what I said. He just misused the term "protected." Only the starter and battery are on the UNprotected side. Everything else is on the protected side, that is, protected from the battery which is the greatest current source in the boat.
Back to Top
79nautique View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: January-27-2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 7872
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2008 at 4:50pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

Originally posted by Bremsen Bremsen wrote:

I know that on my boat, the main POS lead off the alternator and the main dash lead were located on the same terminal on the circuit breaker. The battery and starter were the only protected ciruits. I don't believe it had ever been touched.


So you're basically combining Tim and Chris's arguments here.

Tim says dash needs to be protected from the battery by the breaker, which it is. Chris says it does not need to be protected from the alternator. So basically Tim's diagram needs the orange alt output on the other side of the 50A engine breaker.


nobody said anything about removing or added a curcuit breaker or fuse Kevin

Tim look on page 22 of teh 302 and 351 PCM manual instead of the 89, the diagram is a lot easier to read and I've got now clue where you see the ballast coming into play. Maybe thats the problem you need a lession in reading schematics
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page    <123>
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Copyright 2024 | Bagley Productions, LLC