Summerization check list

Is the pump installed properly? I don't know what year you have, but it is verey easy for it to be installed in reverse. Do a search on rwp install.

It should prime very fast. If it doesn't then you eother have a problem with the pump or a poor seal somewhere. Trust the mechanic but verify that there are no air leaks.

Year 2: Launched boat. Started it without any priming. No water in the strainer after 10 seconds, so I shut it down. I primed the pump by filling the vertical hose coming up from it. Started the boat again, water quickly filled the strainer, thought I was all set. One month later, impeller was fried, probably sent toward its death by 10 seconds of dry spinning. Mechanic says there are no air leaks. I did not see a shut-off valve. I am trying to avoid priming, but it seems like I need to prime. Any thoughts?

I am the new guy on the block. We bought our 66 mustang last summer and the guy I bought it from gave is a very good list on how to launch and care for the boat, or so I thought. After winterizing it and storing it I now have alot of new questions. I hope this is the appropriate place to ask them. When I asked about the trans he told me " you don't want to go there it's fine the way it is, you don't need to service it" I'm a full time mechanic and thought that didn't sound correct. Your thoughts and how??? Also I am looking for answers as far as engine size and wiring diagrams?? appears to be hull #m1744?? and engine seriel#GT21_526251p does this look correct and what does it mean I have, any help is great. I can't wait to get back on the lake, as we got a late start last year due to all the flooding in our area only days after buying the boat.
Thank you
   Tom

the threads do not enter any water cavity so there is no need for thread sealer.

8122pbrainard wrote: emccallum wrote: When you put the impeller back in spray it with some wd40 or lube it so it isnt so dry as it primes. Bad idea to put any petroleum product on the rubber impeller. Even though the new ones are a urethane, you do not want to take the chance of attacking the rubber. Don't do it. I have never put anything in a RWP in 41 years of winterizing marine engines. If you antifreeze it will lube the pump.

According to WD40 it is ok to use on rubber. I see no problem with spraying it on to ease the installation, then having it flushed with thousands of gallons of water for the next 4 months. I would not use wd40 as a "protectant" over the winter, just a bit to help install it. I have only been using it for 25 years, so I may change my mind in the next ten or fifteen.

emccallum wrote: When you put the impeller back in spray it with some wd40 or lube it so it isnt so dry as it primes.

Bad idea to put any petroleum product on the rubber impeller. Even though the new ones are a urethane, you do not want to take the chance of attacking the rubber. Don't do it. I have never put anything in a RWP in 41 years of winterizing marine engines. If you antifreeze it will lube the pump.

I too am finally getting my boat out this week. The brutal floods we have had here in Iowa left all the lakes and rivers high for quite some time (I know know how you guys down south felt last year....we got all your missing water this year). I am wondering how hard is it to burn out all of the fogging oil? Is it ok to take the boat out once, then change the plugs afterwards, or am I headed for a letdown? I'd rather do it this way to burn out all of the stabil. I sprayed the fogging oil into the carb while running until the engine puked per someone on here. Or should I take the plugs out and clean them 1st? Sorry bout the hijack but I figured it's related. Thanks in advance, Brian

winniskier wrote: I launched the boat for the first ime this year. It started right up. About 10 minutes later, it was overheating. Turns out the impellar failed. It was one season old, 18 months in the boat. Was this bad luck or should I have done something more? I guess I could look at the fresh water strainer at start-up to make sure its drawing water. Anything else?

If it failed when it was that old the most likely thing that happened is your O ring on your strainer dried over the winter and you were sucking air. Best thing to do at the beginning of the year is to pop the hose off of your raw water pickup and put it in a bucket and let it suck. If it doesn't suck then you have an air leak of bad impeller. Hooking the hose up can mask a problem.

Tim

I guess the question then is how do make sure that it does not run dry in that situation. Should it be primed so it won't run dry on first start-up? Would using a fake-a-lake force water up to the impeller?

I launched the boat for the first ime this year. It started right up. About 10 minutes later, it was overheating. Turns out the impellar failed. It was one season old, 18 months in the boat. Was this bad luck or should I have done something more? I guess I could look at the fresh water strainer at start-up to make sure its drawing water. Anything else?

79nautique wrote: ... It's not a bad Idea to replace the spark plugs also.

Yea, I replace the plugs along with the fuel filter/water seperator in the spring (oil, oil filter, tanny fluid are done during winterization).

-Keith                 

79 I am in Akron ohio.....

Sounds like you could really benefit from flipping through the engine manual, which is available on this site.

Better yet...use the boat year-round...right Mark?

john